FNG with a bad algea problem - HELP!

[obake84]

At first it was great, had a small algae bloom and used 2 packs of the power powder from Leslie Pools and it worked. 3 weeks later, this was Friday of last week, it became green again. I took my water to Leslie to get tested and they said my chlorine was low. I added 2 packs and one of the clarifying packs (oxidizer I think) and Saturday it didnt make a dent. I got a 3rd packet and added it and Sunday it seemed worse so I took water to Leslie again and all of my numbers were in range. I started googling and found out I have not been backwashing and that I could have an algae problem because the sand in the filter could be bad. After a while I figured out how to backwash and proceeded to backwash but after about 2 mins the water started to come up from the ground so I stopped it. There is now a gaping hole at the end of my yard where a white tube is visible now. Perhaps the backwash line broke or something?

Fast forward to yesterday and I found this site. I found the SLAM method and decided to try that. I went to home depot and bought 2 gallons of sodium hypochlorite and added 128oz at night and turned on the pump. This AM I didnt see a difference but I forgot to put my pump on all day. Its a 2EZ Speed motor by US Motors.

I think tonight I will add more chlorine but I wanted to know if I should buy some algeacide to kill off the algae as well as up the chlorine?

Pool Pics: http://imgur.com/a/yMHre

So I need some help. I have included pictures of my equipment and pool for reference. Since it is possible my sand filter needs new sand I started looking around at companies to do this for me. Most run about $200 bucks for service and so I thought I could do it myself but I know nothing about my equipment.

1. I understand the big black egg thing is the actual filter but I was hoping someone could tell me what model / make it is? I need to know so I can get the right sand and the correct amount.
2. I dont know much about the white pipes, red levers, blue levers and pretty much everything else. I know what some of them do just by turning it and seeing something happen such as the water feature turns on and the aerator turns on. But there are at least 3 that do either nothing or something I cannot see.

In the last few pictures you can see where my backwash comes out. I thought this was supposed to run to the street or something but after 2 mins the water started flowing up from the ground in that hole. I only ran the backwash for about 10 mins but it created some substantial damage to this area and I have concerns about the underground damage. Is it normal for backwash to flow up from the ground like that? How do I know which port coming off of the side of the filter is for backwash because I dont see any other opening besides the top of the filter and a small outlet on the bottom for draining I assume.

Thanks in advance for all the help!!
-Rob

 

[Texas Splash]

Hey Rob, welcome to TFP! We can help you, but you have to be open-minded to change a coupe things to take charge fo your pool:
#1 - The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 – link below) is the foundation of your pool care. We've learned through personal experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

- Next, avoid the pool store for testing, advice, or products. You simply won’t get the advice/service you deserve and you will waste money on products your pool doesn’t need. Do not add anything to your pool other than what is advocated by the TFP site or its experts. You’ll have a happier pool, spend less time maintaining your pool, and probably save some $$ in the process. The following are short articles from this site that you will see linked in my signature below: Pool School, Recommended Levels (for YOUR pool), PoolMath Calculator, SLAM, and the Chlorine/CYA Chart.

For now, we highly encourage you to order a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006, then post those test results. In the meantime, you may be able to keep the green water form getting Greener by adding 1/2-1 gallon of regular bleach to the water every evening. But that's only temporary until your kit comes in.

Again, check-out the Pool School and other vital links in our signatures and you'll be ready once your kit arrives. Welcome to TFP!

- - - Updated - - -

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

 

[kimkats]

HI! that is one green pool! I had to cut and paste the pic into into a new window but I get to see the pics that way.

I am not going to talk about the equipment or the backwash issue as that is not one of my strong areas.

Green water I can take care of! Are you ready??? Here we go!

First thing--------do not go back to the pool store. "Your water is fine"-----REALLY??????? how is it fine if it looks like that?

What you need is YOUR own test kit. You need the TF-100 XL. You can find the link in my siggy below. Order it yesterday!

Unless you get your own test kit we will not be able to help you clear your pool. We can get it clear if you do your part of getting a good test kit.

Next-until you get a test kit add on gallon of plain bleach in your pool a day to keep it from getting worse. That is all we can do until you get a good test kit.

HUGS! We can get you to a jewel like pool!

Kim

 

[COBrien]

For easier viewing:

 

[DanielP]

If you decide to follow the TFPC method, you'll want to a cheap source of liquid chlorine or bleach. Someone posted the other day about a HASA dealer in your area that has a great price on chlorine: Bleach Prices 2015 - Page 12. There's actually a lot of HASA dealers in your area so there may be even cheaper options.

 

[chyvan]

I understand the big black egg thing is the actual filter but I was hoping someone could tell me what model / make it is? I need to know so I can get the right sand and the correct amount.

If your pool was clean at one point, it's unlikely that you need new sand, but for future reference your filter is a Pentair sta-rite. Don't know the size, but I have the same shape and all. Shasta slaps on their own labelling, but they gave me an instruction booklet that tells me it's a Pentair.

I'm curious what you think the backwash valve is? It's the black t-handle on top of the blue vertical pipe that is about 3" from the filter. From the metal prong being as low to the pipe as it is in the pic, it's currently in backwash mode right now. The water flows through the top blue pipe, and from the pics, it then goes 90 degrees into the ground. My backwash pipe does not go underground. Runs out into my front yard, but I wonder where your water is going. I'd hate to think it got plumbed into your sewer line.

Be really careful with that handle. It's pretty weak plastic and you don't want to use hardly any force on it. If it doesn't rotate easily, you'll want to free that thing that looks like a metal plate so that you can lift it straight out. Sometimes turning that air release on the top of the filter equalizes the air pressure so you can get it out with as little force as possible. Then you can lubricate the 3 disks that are mounted on the shaft with silcon grease to restore easy movement. Mine always sticks so I pretty much have to disassemble every time I backwash. My pool is so clean that I only backwash once a month, and even that's too much, but I'm afraid if I don't use that plunger at least that much, it could get super stuck in there.

 

[PAGirl]

Here is how you deep clean a sand filter. That way you don't have to change the sand.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

 

[JoeSelf]

My pool builder put their label over the filer MFG label. I peeled the label off and wha-la, the other label was below.