Pool Schedule

Jun 27, 2015
98
Katy
My pool was completed and filled with water just over 3 weeks ago. There was an acid startup and then chemicals were added. The PB told us they do not recommend that we run the pool less than 1hour per 10 degrees outside (would put us at 9-10 hours) but set the schedule from 8am to 8pm. We have a chlorine pool with intelliflow var speed pump for primary pool and a regular pump for spa.

A few questions :
- based on the how to section, it would appear I can begin testing a reduction in run time. How does one determine if they've reduced run time too far?
- spa was never put on a schedule which means just a blower for the spillway runs ... We don't use the spa ... Is this an issue? Should we add a schedule to it?
- is there any advantage to split schedules versus straight run time ... Our PB said to keep it on a straight schedule and run during the hottest time of day.


thank You!
 
My pool was completed and filled with water just over 3 weeks ago. There was an acid startup and then chemicals were added. The PB told us they do not recommend that we run the pool less than 1hour per 10 degrees outside (would put us at 9-10 hours) but set the schedule from 8am to 8pm. We have a chlorine pool with intelliflow var speed pump for primary pool and a regular pump for spa.

A few questions :
- based on the how to section, it would appear I can begin testing a reduction in run time. How does one determine if they've reduced run time too far?
- spa was never put on a schedule which means just a blower for the spillway runs ... We don't use the spa ... Is this an issue? Should we add a schedule to it?
- is there any advantage to split schedules versus straight run time ... Our PB said to keep it on a straight schedule and run during the hottest time of day.


thank You!

Welcome to the forum. I recommend you have a read here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/115-read-before-you-post

Also, a trip to Pool School is in order:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/

Without knowing details about your pool it is very hard to give proper advice.

Did your PB discuss how to sanitize (chlorinate) your pool?

Do you have a plan to chlorinate your pool?

Do you own a proper test kit?

Be sure to add your pool details to your signature as described in the first link I posted.

Dom
 
Also keep in mind that while we have great advice on this forum to assist members who just had a pool built, ultimately you will need to follow the advice of your pool builder to meet all warranty issues. So at a minimum, make sure you comply with the builder's requests, and keep good notes as well in case something happens later. Once you've met any break-in period or warranty issues issued by your builder, use TFPC to your advantage.
 
I don't believe run time will have a play on warranty issues at all. Temperature has no bearing calculating a run time, except in extremes. The goal is getting the pool clean and making sure Free Chlorine gets everywhere in the pool consistently. In Winter, if the pool is left open or functional, you might be able to get away with a couple of hours every two or three days unless the freeze timer dictates otherwise. You'll know if you reduce the run time too much when the pool isn't cleaned or skimmed to your satisfaction. If your automation allows it, it can be very beneficial to break up the total run times over two or three times per day, perhaps two or three hours each. Every pool has different run time needs depending on surroundings, bather activity, etc. Many can get away with 4-6 hours per day. I would suggest getting flow through the spa a minimum of once or twice per day during these cycles. You want to make sure it gets freshly Chlorinated water running through it regularly.

I would get their suggested chemical balances in writing after the hot startup is complete. If they are like many, they will blame water chemistry for any problems encountered with the appearance of the finish, just FYI. As for the blower, you should be able to circulate the spa without it.

Welcome to TFP by the way, and enjoy the forum!
 
Sorry all ... I think my initial message may have been misleading. We are past the pool builder balancing or adding chemicals -- pool school was completed and the pool is officially in my hands to manage. In fact, the pool builder - IMO - did not provide much guidance or clarity regarding a lot of topics, including "ideal levels" ... they just said things like 7.2-8.0PH is safe, try to stay in the middle. 1.0-3.0 Chlorine is good, try to stay close to 3 based on the heat.

Our FC remains at 3+, PH is at a steady 7.8, Alk at 90 ... these test results are being duplicated daily with each test, only seldomly getting a different PH.

We had 1.5 cups of muriatic acid and check the next day, only to find PH is still at 7.8

Do we need to get this down to a PH of 7.6 and what do you recommend? Any time we do the acid demand test it always only shows 1 drop, which is 1.5 cups.

Did your PB discuss how to sanitize (chlorinate) your pool? In line rainbow chlorinator

Do you have a plan to chlorinate your pool? It is chlorinated

Do you own a proper test kit? Yes - though I'm going to upgrade
 
Thank you very much for your reply, it was truly appreciated and very helpful. Any sense for how long the spa should run for each of the 1 to 2 times per day? My system does allow for multiple schedules (easy touch 8) so I'd go ahead and schedule that. The pool builder did not have it set to run at all, ever - which did not feel right to me but they said it should not be a concern and to only run it when you want to use it. I've gone ahead and changed the setting so it can come on, without heat.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks!
 
Run it for as long as the pool runs, or try half as long each run of the pool. Don't be afraid to experiment.

I don't know what your Cya level is by this point, but if there is any amount over 30, then 3 PPM FC will not keep you out of trouble for very long. If you are under that, you'll have a difficult time keeping 3 as the Sun will consume that much per day. The key however is that you'll soon build up Cya with the chlorinator and 3 PPM will not be adequate. If you are interested in learning more about why, please start with the ABCs in pool school, and start building some knowledge. It's what our methods are all about really. Understanding the Cya Chlorine ratio is a key element of TFPC methods so take a look in that in pool school as well.
 
I've read it all, but not prior to my build. After reading it, I questioned whether or not a chlorinator was a good choice. The test kit we received only when does not have the capability to measure about 3.

Pool store results
FAC = 3
TAC = 3
CH = 400
CYA = 50
TA = 80
PH = 7.8

I am trying to find the balance between use of a chlorinator setting for CYA maintenance and your TFP approach of liquid bleach, but I've not found that yet. I will keep reading and thank you once again ;-) This is really a great site, but better - with great people responding to us newbie's questions!
 
Welcome to TFP, newbie! :)

CYA at 50 is about all you want to have. Chlorine level is set based on CYA and the Chlorine CYA Chart. Always keep FC at or slightly above target level. Never let FC drop below minimum or your pool will be unsanitary and algae will grow.

PH between 7.2 and 7.8 is fine. If your PH is stable then leave TA alone.

Get one of the Recommended Test Kits, I use the TF100 from TFTestkits.net.

Here are some of my fave Pool School articles in case you missed any of them.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
 
I won't put faith in the pool store Cya number as it's often the worst one in accuracy terms. It could be close,nut with your own proper kit it will be impossible to say. To acheive the balance you mention you'll need to order your own proper test kit and use it to see where you truly are, and monitor your progress. To give you an idea how fast the Cya will build up, remember that each 10 PPM FC derived from the Feeder pucks will also add 6 PPM Cya.
 

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