Help Needed---SWG No Power

[wkusae31]

Hey everyone. I need to seek help regarding my SWG. Here are sequence of events:

1. 2 weeks ago, Inspect Cell light came on. I cleaned cell with muriatic acid.
2. Then I backwashed after I put cell back in.
3. Lots of rain, and I drained pool a little last Thursday (7.2.14).
4. Had a pool party for July 4th so I kept pump and SWG on for over 24 hours. During this time, I noticed that the Power and Generating lights were off. I did not think too much of it.

Today, I turn pool pump and SWG on. It flashes "No Flow" for about a minute. Then it goes to a solid green "Generating" for about 5 seconds. Then all of the lights are off. I am a complete novice so:

1. is there something wrong with the SWG? and/or
2. Do I need to replace cell? (even though it did not have an "Inspect Cell" light flashing)
3. My cell usually tests 300-400 lower than the salt test. Today, the display read 2700. I did not do a salt test.

My tests results for 7.5.15:

FC: 8
CC: 0
TC: 8
CYA: ~70
Salt: 3200 (display read 2900).

Once again, your advice and help is always greatly appreciated.

 

[Tanner M]

Hey everyone. I need to seek help regarding my SWG. Here are sequence of events:

1. 2 weeks ago, Inspect Cell light came on. I cleaned cell with muriatic acid.
2. Then I backwashed after I put cell back in.
3. Lots of rain, and I drained pool a little last Thursday (7.2.14).
4. Had a pool party for July 4th so I kept pump and SWG on for over 24 hours. During this time, I noticed that the Power and Generating lights were off. I did not think too much of it.

Today, I turn pool pump and SWG on. It flashes "No Flow" for about a minute. Then it goes to a solid green "Generating" for about 5 seconds. Then all of the lights are off. I am a complete novice so:

1. is there something wrong with the SWG? and/or
2. Do I need to replace cell? (even though it did not have an "Inspect Cell" light flashing)
3. My cell usually tests 300-400 lower than the salt test. Today, the display read 2700. I did not do a salt test.

My tests results for 7.5.15:

FC: 8
CC: 0
TC: 8
CYA: ~70
Salt: 3200 (display read 2900).

Once again, your advice and help is always greatly appreciated.

Most likely the board has failed inside of the SWG controller. There is part in there that can be replaced fairly easy if you know how to solder. I had this same problem last year and was able to solder in the new part without any prior experience. It was only a few dollar vs. spending hundreds on a new board. I am at work right now so I cant search for the post but search around and you should be able to find it. Best of luck!

 

[gilbee]

Here's a video that goes through the steps:

Aquarite Hayward No Cell Power.wmv - YouTube

 

[JamesW]

Can you post the diagnostics by pressing the button and getting the readinngs?

 

[wkusae31]

Unfortunately, I have the same problem that gilbee has linked to. In a rush, I forgot to Google and check Youtube about this issue.

My readings:
2700
Temp: 85
Cell voltage: 11.6
Cell current: 0
Desired Output: 53P
Instant salinity: - 0
AL - 0
R1.58
T-15

So it looks like I need to find some fuses and parts for the SWG. A few questions:

1. What is going to happen to my pool since my SWG is going to be out of commission? How do I chlorinate it? 2. Should I still run the pump?
3. Would there be a local place to get some of these parts or is this something that is only found on the Internet?

 

[JamesW]

AS32 2R025 is the part you probably need. You can get it at digikey.com.

Use regular bleach for chlorine. Make sure that it says
sodium hypochlorite......8.25 % on the label.

Don't use scented, outdoor, splashless or other special use bleach. Run the pump as usual.

Note: Older units used part number SL32 2R025. Check your board just in case it has the older style current limiter. Or just get one of each and match it when you remove the board.

 

[gilbee]

The most common part is the voltage regulator James mentioned---I wouldn't go getting the other pieces.

 

[wkusae31]

Thanks for the help everyone. I believe it is the voltage regulator. The fuse was easy to change, but did not correct the issue.

 

[JamesW]

Note: It's not a voltage regulator. It's an inrush current limiter. It's also known as a thermistor because the resistance varies according to temperature.

 

[wkusae31]

Yep. I got 2 of those from digikey. Now, I just have to watch a few hours of Youtube videos of how to solder.

 

[NWMNMom]

This is a pretty easy fix. I've done it a couple of times. I did notice that both times mine burned out it was very hot outside and the panel box had seemed to "overheat" so - not sure if that had any direct relation or not. Lucky for me - Digikey is just 30 minutes away from me! I keep a few on hand.

 

[chiefwej]

When I replaced the part on mine, I just cut the old one off and left the legs sticking out from the board. Then I wrapped the old leg over the legs of the new part and soldered it to them. That way there is no soldering to the circuit board and the new part stands off the board at a 90 degree angle. That provides better cooling as well as making replacement quick and easy.

 

[wkusae31]

Thanks for the help everyone. I had the current limiter replaced. The SWG went through the cycle and the "Power" came on and the "Generating" came on. However, within 2 minutes, my "Check Cell" and "Low Salt" light began flashing. It's Always something with these things! We've had a lot of rain and I've had to drain my pool twice this week so my salt level is 2800 with Testkit and maybe testing lower with SWG so hopefully that's the issue. I just cleaned my cell 3 weeks ago so hopefully the cell has not gone bad (it's only 2-3 years old)?

 

[JamesW]

The flashing "check cell" light is just a timed reminder to check the cell for scale. It's not a problem. You clear it by pressing the button until the light goes out. Raise the salt to 3200 to 3400 and try again. Post the new diagnostics if you get a chance.

 

[wkusae31]

James: Thanks for help. I put another 100 lbs of salt into the pool and raised my salt level to 3400. The flashing lights went off.

 

[JamesW]

Thanks for the update. Are the diagnostics all good now?

 

[wkusae31]

Yep. So far so good. This pool is only 3 years old, but I believe the previous owner did not take adequate care and maintenance so my cell maybe going bad sooner than later.

 

[TWong1200]

I have a similar issue. Although I get no lights at all on my panel. I took the controller apart and indeed, the current limiter looks burnt at the solder points. I've ordered a replacement from digikey already.

In addition, the fuse is blows, which likely explains why I get absolutely no lights at all.

The fuse I need is a GLX-F20, it appears, but all places I've found online only sells them in a 10 pack. I do not need that many (obviously). Does anyone know where I could purchase a single piece? Perhaps I can find an equivalent automotive fuse from a local auto parts store. Has anyone done that? Any suggestions?

Thanks!