Dannielle, new member

Jun 19, 2015
2
chattanooga
Hello everyone, I'm new here and I'm trying to do this pool chemical stuff without the costly help of our local costly pool stores and there high priced chemicals. I had every thing going well until last week when here in Tennessee it rained almost daily for a week now my pool is turning green again. I really need some help with where to start. I am using a Taylor test kit k-2006. My results are showing: no free chlorine
pH 7.0
TA 50
CH 140
CYA 30
Im hoping to stop this green before it gets out of hand.
Thanks
 
Dannielle,

Welcome to TFP. You will learn a lot here and get all the help you need. Your pool will be in fine shape soon.

Start by reading all the articles in PoolSchool (see top left on the TFP home page).

First Priority: You are going to need to SLAM, so read that article carefully and use the CYA/Chorine chart to determine your SLAM level.

Use this chart to determine FC SLAM (shock) level.

Your pH, TA, CH, and CYA levels are OK. pH is slightly low, but OK to start a SLAM. The faster you get your FC up to SLAM level, the better off you will be. The Maintain part of SLAM means don't let FC drop below SLAM level until you pass the 3 tests that let you stop the SLAM.

Use PoolMath to determine how much bleach to add to reach your SLAM target. Be sure to enter your pool gallons at the top of Pool Math.

Check the date code on the bleach you buy, to make sure it's fresh. I try to buy bleach that is less than 1 month old. Date Code Decoder

The next time you post test results, please include CC (combined chlorine).
 

CYA is 30, so shock level is 12 FC. Get it up there, make a lap around the pool with the brush, catch your breath, have a drink, and recheck FC and boost it to 12 again. Repeat every couple hours. The green can be gone by tomorrow. Clearing the cloudiness and passing the overnight loss test will likely take a few days. The earlier you catch it, the faster it will go away.
 
Welcome to TFP Danielle!

Fear not, the SLAM Process will clear up the green. It's been used on thousands of pools, many of which were in far worse shape that what you are describing. I'll make my usual plug that the M in SLAM is the most important part of the process. The M is for Maintain, as in maintaining the chlorine as close to the SLAM target (12 ppm in your case) throughout the entire process. It is not a one-time dose of a high amount of chlorine like the pool store would have you believe.