green pool

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N

notapoolexpert

0
Jul 5, 2015
26
new york
Hi everyone,

New to the forums and have been having an issue this year with my pool, consistently being greenish/brown. Been to the pool store 5 times and I keep getting different answers. The pool went from seafoam green to brown, back to seafoam green and then they had me put 5 lbs of shock in and it went back to brown. They told me to add chlorine tabs on Friday so I did, now today they told me to take the chlorine tabs out. It's back and forth and I feel like they do not know what they are talking about. They are having me put a quart of metal out after backwashing tomorrow morning. Nothing else, just the metal out.

Would it be ok for me to post the test results from today on here to see if their recommendation is correct?

Thank you
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! But first thing we have to say .... You MUST have your own (proper) test kit. The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 – link below) is the foundation of your pool care. Why this kit? We've learned through personal experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

Also, Avoid the pool store for testing, advice, or products. You simply won’t get the advice/service you deserve and you will waste money on products your pool doesn’t need. Do not add anything to your pool other than what is advocated by the TFP site or its experts. You’ll have a happier pool, spend less time maintaining your pool, and probably save some $$ in the process. The following are short articles from this site that you will see linked in my signature below: Pool School, Recommended Levels (for YOUR pool), PoolMath Calculator, SLAM, and the Chlorine/CYA Chart.

For now, order the proper test kit and read the "SLAM" and "Chlorine/CYA Chart" links below. As soon as you receive your test kit, this will be yoru first course of action to clear your water.

Oh, before I forget ... please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

Welcome to TFP, and keep us posted on your status! Have a great day/evening.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Their test results are not reliable and you already know their recommendations are not working. Don't trust the test results and don't use cheap test strips. I know you want to do something to fix your pool. But, without good test result numbers it is just as likely to make it worse.

I am Ok with seeing what the numbers are to get an idea of what might be going on. But, we almost had someone put a bunch of acid in their pool this weekend and it turns out rhey didn't need to because the PH test result was wrong.

+1 on the TF100, it has kept my pool crystal clear for 3 years. TFTestkits.net
 
pooldv said:
Welcome to TFP!

Their test results are not reliable and you already know their recommendations are not working. Don't trust the test results and don't use cheap test strips. I know you want to do something to fix your pool. But, without good test result numbers it is just as likely to make it worse.

I am Ok with seeing what the numbers are to get an idea of what might be going on. But, we almost had someone put a bunch of acid in their pool this weekend and it turns out rhey didn't need to because the PH test result was wrong.

+1 on the TF100, it has kept my pool crystal clear for 3 years. TFTestkits.net
Click to expand...


Yeah I will have to get one of those kits. here's what they came up with this afternoon. First off, it's an above ground sand filter with 30,479 gallons. Looks like they are using something called Waterlink datamate 10 to test the water. Anyway, here is what it came up with:

Free Chlorine-1.05 ppm
Total Chlorine-2.17 ppm
Combined Chlorine-1.12 ppm
pH-7.2
Hardness-347 ppm
Alkalinity-40 ppm
Cyanuric Acid-2 ppm
Copper-0.1 ppm
Iron-0.8 ppm

Thanks for your advice
 
Okay, well based on their test results, here's what see:
- Your FC is low (requires liquid bleach)
- CC is higher that .5 which indicates their is organic residue in your water (trash chlorine)
- Your CYA is very low (requires stabilizer)
- PH is perfect for starting our "SLAM"
- TA is a bit low, but not a concern at this point for your type pool

- Normally we don't worry too much about metals like copper/iron unless the pool is filled with well water, or the owner put algaecides in the pool (which contain metals). Another reason we avoid the pool store. :)

You need to "SLAM" by following the direction in the link below. To prepare for a SLAM, you should do the following:
- Adjust PH to 7.2 - 7.5; don’t worry about it after that during the SLAM (Good)
- Ideal CYA should be 30; the higher the CYA, the more bleach required (You can't trust THEIR results)
- Have a good amount of “regular” liquid bleach on-hand to keep your FC high at all times

Getting your own test kit is important to monitor & maintain those higher FC levels 24/7 until the water clears. So that's where you're at right now. Test kit priority #1 so you can SLAM. Keep us posted!
 
Let's get that pool back to what it was intended for....swimming. You need a good test kit like the T2600 or the recommended one he which is linked in my signature. Then we need those results. Pool store results are inaccurate at best. Welcome to the forum.
 
My first suggestion is to stop going to the pool store. Those test results are unreliable on thier face as I know of no way to test CYA to "2" After that test, what did they want to sell you?

I will tell you, it didn't turn green overnight and it will take time to clear. But, we can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that was for a lot less money than the pool store.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework assignment. Start with Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
 

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Sorry to have disappeared. I had to buy a new pump as mine just stopped working. Pool is still green but I purchased the k-2006 test kit. I know I have to slam the pool but how exactly do I go about doing this? My parents normally fix the pool but they're unable to do it anymore so I'm stuck trying to fix it and am not that skilled.
 
Are you sure about that Calcium result? If yes, we can deal with getting it down or working around it later. DO NOT use Calcium Hypochlorite anymore! Now, go to Walmart and get about 10 or 20 jugs of plain old non scented, non splashless, regular Great Value Bleach and get ready to SLAM your pool. This may be a quick SLAM, so that is a good thing. Stop using the pool store and stop getting advice from them. What they teach/sell is incompatible with our methods. Also, please purchase 1 or 2 gallons of muriatic acid. You can get this at Lowe's or Homedepot.

1. Get your pH to 7.2. Use Pool Math to determine the amount of MA needed to drop your pH from 7.4 to 7.2. Add that amount wait 30 minutes and retest your pH.

2. Keep your pump running 24/7.

3. Add enough bleach to get your FC to 16 ppm. Use Pool Math...

4. Maintain this FC level of 16 by frequent testing. please test at least 3 times a day and not more than once per hour. The more you test and bring your FC back up to 16 the faster this will go.

5. You are done when you meet the following:

CC is less than 0.5
Pass the OCLT
Your water is perfectly clear
 
Thanks. I already bought 12 gallons of liquid chlorine -would that be ok instead of the regular bleach? Also, just walk it around the pool correct?
The muriatic acid-how does that go into the pool? Skimmer or directly into the pool?



jaduck said:
Are you sure about that Calcium result? If yes, we can deal with getting it down or working around it later. DO NOT use Calcium Hypochlorite anymore! Now, go to Walmart and get about 10 or 20 jugs of plain old non scented, non splashless, regular Great Value Bleach and get ready to SLAM your pool. This may be a quick SLAM, so that is a good thing. Stop using the pool store and stop getting advice from them. What they teach/sell is incompatible with our methods. Also, please purchase 1 or 2 gallons of muriatic acid. You can get this at Lowe's or Homedepot.

1. Get your pH to 7.2. Use Pool Math to determine the amount of MA needed to drop your pH from 7.4 to 7.2. Add that amount wait 30 minutes and retest your pH.

2. Keep your pump running 24/7.

3. Add enough bleach to get your FC to 16 ppm. Use Pool Math...

4. Maintain this FC level of 16 by frequent testing. please test at least 3 times a day and not more than once per hour. The more you test and bring your FC back up to 16 the faster this will go.

5. You are done when you meet the following:

CC is less than 0.5
Pass the OCLT
Your water is perfectly clear
Click to expand...
 
liquid chlorine is the common label used when the chlorine concentration is 10% or above. Less than 10% is bleach. You would need fewer individual bottles over the life of the SLAM, but the price per oz of actual chlorine might be higher than bleach, so it depends on what kind of deal you received. But extra cost might be offset by less labor, if that is a concern for the person having to add all that bleach. But yes what you have is great, just so long as the % is clearly marked so you can calculate accordingly.

When you are using the calculator, just put the proper concentration in the fields next to the FC levels. Always add Chlorine and acid separately, by at least 30 minutes. Have the pump running, and slowly pour the liquid in front of a return (usually a wall jet where the water gets shot back into the pool after it's been through your filter). You should be brushing the pool several times a day during your SLAM anyway to expose the algae, and this will help mix as well.

You don't want a high concentration of chlorine or acid to go right into the skimmer, this will expose your system to much higher concentrations than they are meant to handle.
 
Where in NY are you?
when you need more, we maybe able to give you some options for getting bleach/liquid chlorine at lower costs
Right now I'm getting 'fresh' 12.5 liquid chlorine @ $3 per full gal.
liquid chlorine/bleach has a self life so getting fresh product is important
 
Not sure why the recommendations are to lower the PH, as pool school says it should be between 7.2 and 7.5.
Prerequisites:
•You need to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test
•You also need to know your current CYA level, and then look up the corresponding FC shock level. You can use the The Chlorine/CYA Chart at Pool School to find the correct FC shock level for your CYA level.
•It is best to use bleach or liquid chlorine when SLAMing. You will want to have enough on hand to raise the FC level to shock level at least a couple of times. It is especially important to avoid using dichlor when SLAMing, as it will raise CYA far too quickly.
•Make sure the pool is free of leaves and other debris (at least as much as possible).
• Check and adjust the PH to between 7.2 and 7.5. The PH test isn't reliable during SLAMing so make sure to take care of this before you start.
• Run the pump 24/7 until you are done SLAMing


I only mention this because the acid addition can be a bit intimidating for newcomers.
 
So should I just do the liquid chlorine? I purchased the muriatic acid at Lowe's tonight so if I need to, I can add that, as well. Just to be clear if I don't have to add the muriatic acid, the only product I put in the pool during the SLAMming is the proper amount of liquid chlorine?

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks, EV. I got mine for that price at the local True Value
 

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