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Thanks guys. Maybe my system is just a lemon. I’ll start checking out my options to replace this thing.

I’m soooo tired of dealing with the low salt, chlorinator off messages, or the hi salt warnings I’ve gotten over the years. And I’ve spent way too much money on bleach and salt trying to compensate for the times my system isn’t working. What can i expect to pay for a whole new salt automation...

Tried a bunch of different places and no one has the PCB-PRO board in stock. Wondering if there is some other fix I can try? When i opened it back up the fuse was not bad this time. I did find a PCB-MAIN board, but would love to fix temporarily and upgrade to the other board when available. And...

Thanks, you mean like this? Both of my panels have a heater button. Is the Prologic system less prone to this error occurring? Any other advantages to updating to Prologic?

Hello, I've read the whole thread about the Chlorinator Off High Salt/Amps message that appears on Hayward Aqua Logic controllers. I first discovered this thread a couple years ago, and was able to re-solder the K1 unit contact in place, and also replaced the fuse with a 15a as it was blown too...

Alright, good to know. Thank you.

It's 3E18156-205835

Oh, okay. Thanks. No sense in taking it in now then.

Less than 2 years! Yes i use K-1766. Can’t believe how many issues I’ve had with this system. Seriously thinking about looking into another brand.

Allen, i think you helped me when i was having issues with my clock setting and high salt warnings. I fixed those by soldering a couple points on the board. Anyway current readings are as follows: +25.81v +4.99a 80deg 2300ppm -25.64v -5.16a 80deg 2400ppm instant salt reading 2600 tested salt 3600

Has anyone had their cell put thru a diagnostic check at a pool store? What type of results do they give you, is it just whether it’s working or not, or something more detailed? I’m asking because i just cleaned my cell yesterday as it hasn’t been producing chlorine. It’s back to producing for...

Hey, just wanted to follow up on this and thank you guys for the help. I ordered the capacitor that was recommended and installed. While in there i also checked the K1 unit and there indeed was a burn mark on back of board and the solder point looked bad, so i resoldered. In addition the fuse...

Okay, i will once the rain stops.

-40.48V 10.01A 57 degrees 3000 ppm +40.07V +9.90A 57 degrees 3000 ppm

Yeah, i test with the Taylor and it’s within range. 3200. The salt reading on the controller is even saying 3000, but still giving me high salt/amps message.

Oh, thanks for the link. I’ll see if i can replace that capacitor. I also have the high salt/amps error, wonder if connected?

So in the last 2 days I’ve had to adjust the clock time on my Hayward automated controller three times. Not sure what’s going on, but i noticed it was wrong when the pump was running when it shouldn’t have been. It’s wrong on the remote box inside the house and also at the controller out on the...

The control panel for my system that I have inside my home is frozen. See pic, it just displays Goldline Aqua Logic Display r03.00. None of lights on the buttons are lit up like normal, and when I press any of the buttons nothing happens. The main panel out by the pool is acting fine. Anyone...

Sorry, got busy with other stuff for a moment. Here are my cell readings: +27.07V, +3.82A, 1800 PPM -27.39V, -3.41A, 1600 PPM The cell is less than 8 months old, it's a Hayward T-15. I checked it for scale yesterday. There was some, so ended up cleaning with Muriatic. Nothing changed after...

Ok great, thanks for the replies. Looks like I don't need to replace the flow switch then. Need to look for some other reason why my system is telling me the salt is extremely low.

Can someone clarify what the flow switch does exactly? In addition to letting the system know that water is flowing thru the pipes, does it also sense how much salt is in the water? I believe I've read that in some other threads. If this is not the case, what part of a Hayward system measures...

Right, I have the correct size. T-15. Cell has been in for 2 months, and low salt notification just started in the last week.

I'm getting this: +26.12V +4.33A 76F 2000 PPM -26.12V -4.51A 76F 2100 PPM I don't know what the first two numbers mean, so maybe that tells you something? Also, just saw someone else posted a similar problem yesterday, and they were advised to check one of the connections on the motherboard...

I just put in a brand new Hayward cell 2 months ago, and now I'm getting a low salt level warning. I've testing my water with the salt drop test and it's 3200 ppm, not low. Not sure what's going on. Any ideas from anyone? It's producing chlorine fine and no other issues with it. I had a generic...

About 6 months ago.

I've been reading the other posts with folks complaining about their cells going bad. I believe I'm pretty much in the same situation, but just want to get additional opinions before i drop $500-600 on a new one. Tested my water yesterday and found I had no chlorine in the pool. Ran to the store...

So did i kill it? Do my diagnostic numbers tell you anything?

Okay I’ll check out the cell and take it to get tested. I dont think it should have much scale, i cleaned it right before the summer with muriatic.

No, i did not. Was I supposed to? I was getting the low salt warning before i even added salt though.

From diagnostic screen -28.19V +1.93A 60 degrees F 0800 ppm Yes i have the Taylor drop test kit for salt My water temp is 67 degrees Error message says check system very low salt Is my salt cell failing or is it my controller?