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":Thanks for the info . My new cell readings are a whole lot more stable and accurate than the gernic one that I did return and got a FULL refund .

Got new Hayward T9 cell installed.(yes I upgraded from a T3 to hopefully extend the life) Changed cell type in the menu. Set output to 25% for now. New readings at start, Avg 3200, instant -3500, 27.6V, 4.82A...big difference.

Thats a very good explanation. Once I get my new OEM saltcell installed. I will probably address the phosphates. Thanks

SO new salt test kit results was 3400, phosphate kit measured 3300. Never had I even considered phosphates in my pool for all these years until I took 1 sample to the pool store to the pool store to have my salt level tested. Thats what started all of this. I am now waiting on a new OEM salt...

I removed the piece of junk generis cell and re-istalled my old one. SHipped the new off for a refund...fingers crossed. Ordered a OEM cell. And supplementing with bleach until then

Today's reading at 3P was FC 6 so I bumped the output to 20%. Still working on replacing water when I can to lower my CYA level. I jsut dont have the time to attempt it all in one day. I happened to be at the panel when it was generating. Average salt was 3400, instant was 2400. I dont remember...

I rcvd my Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and my pool tested at 3400. My Aquarite Avg reading is 3400 with the new generic salt cell. My FC has been holding steady yesterday @3p=9.5FC, today at 130P=8FC. I will keep monitoring the FC to ensure the cell is maintaing proper FC level.

A lot of good info here...thanks to everyone. My salt test kit will be arriving tomorrow. I have also been replacing some of my water in small to moderate amounts due to my high level of CYA(which by the way is not the subject here. ) I noticed that my panel is reading a more believable salt...

Just orderedd my K-1766 salt test kit and K -1106 Phospahate kit. Also started water change to lower the CYA. I have a protable sump pump. 30 mins at a time pumping out water and adding. Tehn do it again and test the next day.

Thanks for that. I am also looking into getting a salt test kit. How good is the Taylor K-1766 Salt water drop test kit.?

The only test result that I posted that was from the pool store was the salt reading. Everything else I tested with my Taylor reagents. I turned my salt system off to bring the FC reading down. TA 70-80(just started turning color at 70 and full color at 80) CH 260 PH did not test because of FC...

This all started with the new generic salt cell install, when it read 4600 instant salt. I do all my own testing except for salt. Thats why I took a sample to the store. Just to get a salt test. Because I did not believe the salt reading I was getting with the new cell. My pool runs year round...

Pool store since I dont have a tester for that.

Do I need to address my phosphates in my salt water pool. They were tested at 3300. My water is crystal clear .FC is very stable FC 15 which is due to new salt cell that I am dialing in. PH 7.5 TA 73 CH 261 CYA 98 % out 10 Salt 3300

Thanks I did not know that about them.

I had salt tested again this morning, 3340, this new generic salt cell is indicating 4600 ( with t3 selected) Supposedly the correct cell size byt the saltpoolstore.com They keep telling me I need to dilute my pool so that their cell will indicate the tested results. And then calibrate the...

Are the pool store salt tests reliable? Still having issues with new cell. Sell says it a T3 based on the number of plates. THey confirmed it from a picture I sent them along with what to look for in the size

I know and I did with the help of Hawyard Support. You must have missed what I said. The new genic one had no markings at all. I ordered a T3 and assumed thats what I got. Because of the higher salt readings I was assuming again that just maybe they sent a bigger cell. or there was a problem...

I have a 7000 gal FG pool. Hayward Aquarite Goldlne salt sys. My old salt cell is T3. After a lot of research with prices the way they are, I purchased a generic cell from the Saltpoolstore. According to the specs it was right for my system. I installed, checked the cell type and put in service...

After another day of operation I believe my system has stabilized, actually salt readings were 3800 avg/3800 inst.

Thanks for the explanation. The salt was added 2 days ago. So looking at my display now which is apprx 40 mins after I posted. My avg is now 4100, instant 3600. I know the instant value should below below the average and it is now. So maybe the system starting to level out so to speak. I never...

I have got plenty of salt in the pool. The cell is clean. It is 3 years old. T3 cell. The cell voltage and current switches polarities ok. First I started having some really weird behavior and readings not normal. Until I determined first that my salt level was low. So I corrected that issue...

I learned something today, did not know there is a thermistor inside the flow switch

Also was cell new generic or Hayward.. just asking

I have a Hayward swg. I go by the salt cell reading on the panel. Never had issues. How much salt dis they add. You can go to pool math and enter your pool info. Then enter zero on tbe now reading for salt and enter your target value. At tge bottom it will show how much should be added

Dont know anything about the Pentair, but how old is your salt cell? Do you have enough flow?

Just goggle continuous vs intermittent motor pmp duty

I know this is off thread, but if anyone is intetested there are many articles and documentation on continous vs intetmittent duty operation. I for one will not get in to a deep technical discussion on it. You have to research ans decide what works best for you.

Good point. Read that post many times never thought about it

Sorry i got thread off track. So in this case, why not add an aux relay or contactor to energize when pmp comes on andwire the swg panel to the relay.