Search results

Running the salt cell with high salinity level or undissolved salt can damage it. Mine had to be replaced after the pool contractor ran it while adding salt (way too much as it turned out, 5600ppm).

What FC/CYA level have you been maintaining that the pool turned green in a week?

I’m always amazed at the stories regarding rain dilution Let’s just say you have a 15x30 pool, 5’ average depth. The capacity of that pool is 13,275 gallons. Now let’s say you had a huge 3” rainstorm. In a 15x30 rectangular pool, 1” is 280 gallons. 3” represents 840 gallons. 840 gallons is...

The warranty starts when it’s purchased so if you don’t install it for a year or two you lose that much off of the warranty if it proves to be defective later on.

My ‘average’ reading is always within a couple of hundred of the ‘instant’ reading.

Just to provide another data point, did a OCGT on my 3+ year old Hayward T-15 cell. 100% output, 12 hours. Poolmath predicted 10pm FC gain, I got 9.0. Water is really high, pouring rain right now, could account for the difference but still pretty close to predicted. I’ve never opened it up in...

I’ve experienced the FC crash after adding calcium chloride multiple times, and I didn’t add a lot. Never noticed it after adding salt but don’t add salt very often and never more than maybe 15 lbs at a time.

“Also, I noticed in that thread commentary about turning SWG off when adding salt and leaving it off for a while before turning it on. Both times the PB came out to add salt that procedure was not followed. When additional salt was added the SWG was on and pump running. When salt was first added...

Not to steal this thread and I’m sorry, but by high PH, are we talking high 7s? Or higher?

I’ve always gone on that assumption, I have normally been using 8-12 as my ’safe’ range. Lately I’ve been wondering if the FC levels at the high end of that range might be more likely to encourage iron staining, if there is any iron in the water. Is that true?

Some of us start to panic if we see 7 lol. 8-12

Our SWG is maintaining or still being adjusted up a bit here in SC. Still lots of summer left

So are you saying your SWG senses when it’s output is reduced, by scaling or whatever, and throws a notification that cleaning is needed?

8 to 10 is a nice range to hold your FC. I use 7 as my minimum and don’t have any problem letting it drift up to 11 or 12.

The SWCG will likely not help hold your FC at slam level. Typically the SWCG should be off for the SLAM. Use liquid chlorine only.

Left mine in last off-season and it seemed to continue to generate chlorine. Can't see any real reason to remove it. I paid a lot of money for a salt system, why would I go to the hassle of manually dosing if I don't have to?

Oh thanks, this is all I needed to know! Hold my beer.

Has anyone else run this simple test? Do all the other SWGs tested produce as advertised? Something seems seriously wrong with the way Poolmath calculates chlorine production, the way it interprets the SWG published specs, or else the SWG manufacturers are lying. I have adjusted my SWG...

My understanding is that a lot of mixing isn't required when adding chlorine. In any case, just adding it to the pool without a running pump is way better than nothing.

As another member commented in another related thread, the other meaning of SWCG is 'Sure We Can Go!'

All you fellow Carolinians with SWCGs in the path of Isaias, make sure you have some chlorine on hand in case power is out for a day or 2 or 3. I happen to have 6 gallons left from a slam a few weeks ago otherwise I'd be scrambling to find some today.

I wouldn't send that new cell back right away.

I never, and I do mean never, have had to add MA to our SWG pool since the first couple of months after I discovered TFP. I have had about a gallon and a half sitting in the pool box forever and I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of it. Edit: Never, other than the process to reduce TA.

850 gal spa? That's our pool! Hayward t-15 cell works great.

That's fine until the SWG says 'low salt' and your test shows you're near the upper recommended salt limit. Then what? Still keep adding salt until the cell and control are happy?

No cover, heated to 88 degrees, FC maintained at 6 - 8 or so, pump/salt cell runs 15.75 hours/day at 10%. The pump run time was determined by our desired heat pump run time. We're two adults using the pool pretty much daily, no kids.

When I had a problem with my Hayward equipment I contacted them first through their Facebook page. They quickly gave a number to call and, at least the gentleman that I contacted, was very responsive.

I may be overthinking on this but: If I run my pump for 6.4 hours at 10% my cell generates chlorine for 54 minutes. 10% of 180 min cycle = 18 min, x 3 cycles. If I run the pump for 9 hours the salt cell still only runs for 54 min of three 180 min cycles generating the same amount of chlorine...

I thought I had the Pool Math app pretty much figured out until I started trying to follow this thread. In the above quote, what does the term 'cycle' refer to? Is it the pump run time entered, 8 hours in this case, or is it the salt cell generation cycle, the 180 minute cycle in the case of my...