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Is the cell really 11 years old? That would be outstanding...usually they are 5 years tops. Generally when they fail, they will gradually read lower and lower salt levels even though the actual level remains constant. Eventually it will shut down due to this false low salt reading. I'm a...

Is it millivolt (no electric power needed) or a digitial ignition heater? If digital, you can hook it up to the load side of the timer just like the pump, and it will only get power when the pump does. Either way, your heater has a flow sensor that will not allow it to run if the pump is off.

You almost certainly need a new cell. They will read lower and lower as they die...so your true salt level is probably through the roof by now, unfortunately. Slap the new cell in and you may be ok, or you might need to drain some water to get the salt level down.

It's somewhere around 50-60, but you can always check your unit if you're wondering...the display should say "COLD" if it has shut off.

Wow, that is a lot of cleaning. How does the water look? What size filter is it?

Unless you have automation, the Pentair units only adjust in 20% increments (at least I think this is still true). The Hayward aquarite is, IMO, the simplest and best for a basic system.

Unfortunately that's not the first one of those we've seen posted here. It seems to be related to the connection working its way loose, then the pins overheat and melt the plastic. I doubt lightning had anything to do with it. If it's under warranty Compupool should take care of it...

:bump: wish i could help...did you try calling Pentair? They'll probably just try to sell you a new unit but you never know.

This site says 12.something (inches I assume) for the cell and unions... http://autopilot.com/our-products/product/103-RC-52-Replacement-Cell-w--Unions pretty sure that's smaller than the Hayward, but I'm not at home to go measure it!

Make sure you have all the plumbing parts you need, along with primer, glue, etc. And, make sure that it will fit where you want to put it!

Hm, seems like someone could just go out and look at theirs! I could do it this afternoon...if nobody responds bug me about it and I'll go look.

There are a couple things you can do: Lowering your TA will certainly help (http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity) Adding borates will also help a lot (http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4655-So-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-Why-and-How)...

I just put in one of those systems and the container of strips was partially open...and they have to be kept dry or they're ruined. Maybe that's what happened with yours too.

It doesn't produce H+ ions, it produces H2 gas bubbles. pH climbs because all those bubbles is effectively aerating the water.

Re: Aquarite Not generating - lights not on I don't think that sounds like a good idea. Is your iron not melting the solder? Have you tried wicking it out?

:bump: sorry, don't know...did you try asking Compupool?

If it ain't broke.... :mrgreen:

Well, limited availability of parts would always concern me, though I doubt that CircuPool is going anywhere.

Welcome to TFP! I can't help with this, but hopefully someone will stop by who can...have you tried Jandy tech support?

If the water is looking dull, something bad is going on. Time to SLAM it! Once everything is back in line, your SWG should maintain the FC level with no trouble.

Wow, a heck of a deal! Since this is an older unit, it will only work with the cell size it originally came with...something to pay attention to for whoever gets it.

I think if you are closing the pool then you might as well bring it in. If you will run the pool all winter, I would just leave it out there.

Re: Every night salt level display drops and I have to reset That could be a problem. Your unit can be wired for 110 or 220, diagrams are in this manual, so if you're reasonably confident you can open up the box and see if it's wired correctly. http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals ...

The new hayward cells are not all that expensive if you shop around online...I just checked the google shopping page and there are some vendors selling them at around $400. I'd stick with getting a new cell rather than rebuilding it or replacing the system, especially since you have Hayward...

To have that much salt left behind, that's a LOT of evaporated pool water. How hard is your tap water in Fresno? Is that spot regularly inundated with pool water?

You said it's on a flower bed, right? It's possible that has nothing to do with salt, but is cause by water from the flowers seeping through the concrete. Any chance of a picture?

You can get a drain king at a hardware store and use that to try and blow out anything that's in there. It goes on the end of your hose and uses the hose pressure to seal itself in the pipe. This kind of thing: http://www.gtwaterproducts.com/drain.html

Please post some test results! "very hard" means different things to different people, but I have successfully managed my SWG pool with more than 1000 ppm of calcium hardness (CH), by keeping pH and TA under control.

Welcome to TFP! There is nothing urgently wrong with your numbers. You're right that CYA should be a little higher with an SWG, but if you aren't using it then I'd leave it for now. Alkalinity is fine as long as the pH isn't rising quickly...as you add acid to keep pH in line, alkalinity will...

Welcome to TFP! Sorry I can't answer your question, but hopefully someone else can. And, have you tried calling Pentair? They should be able to sort it out for you.