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Oly, you are definitely a candidate for adding borates. Your pH is drifting high very quickly and in the cell the pH is even higher. I added borates this season to my pool and my friend's as well. She was having all kinds of scaling issues last year, but most of that was due to her high CH...

Update: So, I went to my friend's house to change the temp jumper setting, but when I got there, I noticed the unit working.:scratch: As I cycled through the menu, the temp reading was practically right on this time. As I got to the salinity reading, it was in the low 3200's. I did notice...

Divin' Dave, Were you able to resolve your issues? One other thing you didn't mention is your water temp on the unit. A couple of people have commented that if the temp reading is off, it can affect the salinity reading. If that is the case, you can change a jumper on the mainboard that...

Thanks MacGyver, that helps a lot. I definitely remember how heavy that thing is when I did the original installation.

More than a couple of times from the looks of his pic above.:mrgreen:

Thanks will give it a try on Monday. Is it easy to remove the cover to get to the mainboard? For now, I loaded her up with 6ppm of liquid chlorine for the weekend. Her FC was still only at 5. That's a definite thumbs up to running the FC a little 'hot' daily.

I do have a flow switch. From ajw22's link above, it looks like the flow switch with the thinner wire is connected to a square headed thread. My flow switch has the hexagonal threaded head like the 2nd one in the pic. However, looking at the wire, it doesn't appear very thick. I can't...

In March of 2020, I bought two RJ45+ SWGs for my pool and a friend of mine. I installed them both and have been taking care of both pools. Mine has been a dream. I haven't had even a single issue. Went all season in '20 without having to clean the unit even once. On the other hand, my...

The salt from a water softener is only used to clean the resin beads in the softener unit. It does not end up in the softened water. It just helps the resin beads stay clean by flushing all the calcium and magnesium ions off of them and to a drain. Then the tank is rinsed to a drain so it's...

You can control the CSI by keeping pH and TA on the low side. Those two plus CH are the 3 most dominant factors in controlling CSI. If you can get your TA down in the 60-70 range, that would put your CSI in the -0.3 to -0.2 range. That should help. Just be aware that pools with SWGs tend to...

Like others have said, using tablets in a floater as your daily means of chlorination is a recipe for disaster. Those tablets contain half chlorine and half stabilizer (CYA). The chlorine gets used up but the stabilizer remains in the pool and builds and builds as you add more tablets until...

Not sure about Intex SWGs, but most other ones will start to throw error lights (like low salt, or maintenance required) when the plates start to get coated with scale. If you can blow out the plates with water from a hose and get them clean, that would be best, but if the scale has built up...

An IC60 should last you longer than an IC40 IN THEORY. The cells are rated for a certain number of hours. An IC60 will produce the chlorine needed daily in less hours than an IC40 with all other things being equal, so it should last somewhat longer. The advantage to running the cell at a...

The cell thinks your salt level is low because all of the fresh rain is on top, so as is it gets sucked into the skimmer, it's taking that top layer of fresh water. You might try turning your salt cell off for maybe an hour and doing some brushing to mix your water a bit more top to bottom...

Stay away from Clorox pool salt. There has been multiple reports of people getting bad iron stains in their water after adding it. You can use any water softener salt if you like, just stick to the blue packaging that doesn't have any additives.

Yes, it's always nice to have a good salt test like the Taylor K1766 so when your SWG spits out any type of error or gives you a low salt reading, you have something to check it against. That will happen especially if the cell needs cleaning.

Don't sweat it. That is perfectly fine. Only thing that might be nicer is if you could see the clear end of the cell easier without having to get down low on your knees. That is useful to make sure that the cell is making chlorine and the plates are clean and aren't accumulating any scale.

Very nice!!!!! Finally we have success. How is your salt reading on the unit compared to your test kit? They tend to be a little under what the Taylor K1766 says, but as long as the cell is happy, you should be good to go. :cheers:

On mine, when I pull the cover to open it, I tend to pull a little to the left and it comes off fairly easy. I agree with Marty, I would install your cell like in your first pic with the cell on the vertical leg and the flow switch on the horizontal leg to avoid the chance of gravity closing...

We are waiting with baited breath for a positive resolution to all this grief that first unit put you through. You'll like all the extra bells and whistles this one comes with. I know I do.

I'm with ajw22, I pretty much follow that blueprint to a tee. I like to generate some chlorine the entire day so it stays fairly even. If you run your pump less and turn up the SWG higher, you'll generate the same amount, but then your pool's FC will have higher swings. It will be higher...

Can't wait to see the new install and actual chlorine being generated!:epds:

:goodpost: That's for sure!!! You got a steal on that RJ45+ if they only charged you $200 more than you paid for the SJ unit. You will love it and you can plumb it the way you want so it won't be so tight up against your filter.

Post some pics of your equipment pad if you need any suggestions. Now is the time to redo plumbing since you're already gonna be doing some cutting and gluing in all likelihood.

A SWG's rating is based on running your pump 24/7 and your SWG at 100%. That's the reason we advise to size your SWG for double. Otherwise, the generator can barely keep up at 100% capacity and your pump has to be on nonstop. By getting a bigger SWG it cuts down on both pump run time and how...

When I get ready to pour my MA I always take a deep breath and hold it before I open the MA lid and then if I need a breath, I turn away from the bottle with my back to it and take a slow breath. The fumes can catch you by surprise for sure so just be aware of them.

I'd wire it straight to the load side of your 220v timer box. You may have to change a jumper on the control unit. Check your instructions.

Why use the vertical install kit at all if you don't have to. Loosening the union on the right of the heater and turning that 90 to the right (after cutting the pipe down by the lower 90) would be very easy. It would also give you plenty of room for your check valve on either the horizontal...

I tend to agree with that guy's article. I've watched many of his videos on you tube where he goes and inspects people's equipment pad, and he always points out the lack of a check valve, and what do you know, the heater is almost always in bad shape. Doesn't necessarily mean that it's always...

I believe the RJ models use a 180 minute run time cycle. I installed an RJ45+ at my house in March 2020 and at my friend's house a month or so later. I help her maintain the pool as well, so I am fully aware of her chemical levels and everything that goes in her water. Both pools are...