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I'd suggest to stop adding stuff until you get your pH in line. You don't get good test results on pH when you are at shock. Where are you getting your test results from? I have never owned a pH test that could test up to 9. Make sure that your test results are good, and then go to the pool...

You're gonna need to keep an eye on your pH definately. With your high TA and... well... not low CH, combine that with a high pH and you're in the scaling range. I'd be shooting for about 7.2 for pH... though you should be OK up to about 7.5... 7.6. That will drive down your TA eventually...

Do you mean your water is "sparkling"? That's a good thing :) I can't see anything else in the picture.

If you are starting at a CYA of "21" as tested by the pool store, adding 5 lbs of CYA will take you to 45 (as tested by the pool store). I would hold off on adding CYA until you get a good test. Also test your CH. Yes... your TA is high... but it is only worth targeting if it is contributing...

Re: Here are my readings.Help!! I want to use the darn thing before summer is over, Everything looks good. No need to worry about your TA level. Means you will have high acid demand, and when you bring down your pH, it will gradually knock down your TA, eventually finding equilibrium...

Good to hear. My only real concern with your pH was that you didn't really know what it was. Now that you do, I'd leave it be. Give your pool a day to settle, and run another set of numbers. With lower TA numbers, I get nervous making big pH changes. It can lead quickly to whack a mole.

If your TA gets lower (as it should by keeping your pH down), your pool should find a new equilibrium at a lower pH, where your chlorine is more effective. Also, pH in the 7.2 and 7.4 range is closer to that of our eyes. But... really... as long as you are in the CSI safe zone, as spinPHD...

If you have di or tri lying around, it wouldn't hurt anything, since you have no CYA. But, I wouldn't go out and buy them. Under these circumstances, the main problem I have with stabilized chlorine is that it complicates the process. It adds FC (but by how much and how fast?), it raises your...

To add: Chlorine is more effective at lower pH levels.

A few things... The only real practical consequence of overdoing it with bleach is the cost and if the CL level is too high, you can't swim in it. I wouldn't sweat that. If you leave your pool at shock level (or even higher), and just allow the water to circulate, while your are gone, I doubt...

Sounds like copper. Don't know what the White Lightning is... But rising pH and/or CL, can turn copper in the water green, which is probably contained in the algaecide that you added as well. I agree with spinPHD... Stop going to the pool store. Get a good test kit, and post the numbers.

Honestly... On a new pool startup, I would follow the manufacturers instructions exactly, and ask them any questions. Don't get me wrong. I do not think that you will get any better advice on such things than right here. But, I also wouldn't want to be in a position attempting to make a...

Personally, I would probably adjust your CH before the SLAM. Right now, your higher pH is keeping your CSI in the safe zone. But, your SLAM will be more effective at a lower pH. AND, once you get to SLAM levels, your pH test results aren't as reliable. Bring your CH to about 250. Then...

At minimum you need to know your CYA levels. Otherwise, you don't know your target CL levels should be. What are you multiplying by with the 10ml sample? It should be .5. If you are multiplying by .2 with a 10ml sample, that would explain the problem. If you put 40 drops in a 10ml sample...

Just noticed that it was OUTDOOR bleach that was added. In case you don't know... avoid that in the future... It has stuff added to it that you don't want in your pool. If you are not noticing anything like foaming, it shouldn't be a problem, and should clear out eventually. Just stick to...

Before adjusting your pH, I would be inclined to dial up your TA a bit... 60... maybe 70. It's somewhat low, which isn't much of a problem, except it makes it harder to get your pH adjusted. Also, raising your TA will have a slight increase of your pH. After that, I like Borax for raising...

With your TA that high, your pool is going to have a high acid demand. Just keep adding acid to keep the pH in the low 7's. That will knock down your TA, and eventually find an equilibrium. As your TA starts to get into the low 100's, keep an eye on your CSI. You may want to start adding to...

Keep your pH low.... Lower it more, even... 7... 7.2. Keep it low. 1) This will keep your CSI in range. 2) This will drive down your TA. The high TA will drive up your pH, which you will keep knocking down with acid, which will lower your TA. Accelerate your pH rise with aeration, so you...

I see no reason to adjust your alkalinity. (Except to increase your acid demand to drive you back to the pool store to buy more acid). You have a vinyl pool... so the CH doesn't make sense. Skip those. What have you been using to chlorinate your water? There is reason to doubt your CYA...

I wasn't thinking of adding the baking soda to raise the pH. More: the higher TA will give the pH a greater tendency to rise on it's own, and find an equilibrium at a higher pH. Or am I wrong?

Most (all?) granular sanitizer contains stuff you don't want in your pool in excess that can only be removed through water drains (calcium or CYA). Is there a specific product that you have that you are considering using? I'm not so much concerned about your FC levels as I am about your CYA...

I'd say FIRST retest with a good test kit. Then determine what you will need to do. Chunking in 11 gallons of bleach based on questionable numbers might not be good advice.

What are you using to shock the pool? The Trichlor you are using is causing you more harm than good at this point, adding to your already too high CYA levels. You would need about 11 gallons of 6% bleach to reach your shock level. You need to get your FC up over 30. You are no where close to...

If it was me... I'd just keep an eye on the pH... If it gets any lower notch it up with baking soda or Borax. That will add more buffering, and raise your pH, without chasing numbers, which could lead to whack a mole.

You need stabilizer... all of your chlorine is going to the sun.

Your CYA is high... but not obscene. Two choices: Drain 1/2 your water and refill and get it to a lower CYA. Or significantly increase your chlorine targets. You need to get the chlorine level up to shock level and then hold it there. if you don't drain and refill, you are going to want to...

I'm a little concerned about your high TA. Should probably test your CH to get a read on your CSI. Try to drop your pH to 7.2... that will drop your CSI. See if that helps the cloudiness. If it does, then that will be your solution: Keep your pH at 7.2 with acid. That should drive down...

With numbers like that, the first thing that I would do would be to balance a bucket of the water. You are not looking to extrapulate any numbers or anything... The economy of scale just doesn't work that way. You just want to make sure that the corrective actions you take on the bucket of...

I am trying to understand the circumstances. First you are seeming to be talking about getting the water tested at the pool store. Then you say you are using a TF test kit. If you are fighting algea, you would be likely testing for two reasons: 1) To make sure that you are maintaining shock...

SWG's with high TA drive up pH like... well... something that is really good at driving up pH. There are people here who can explain it scientifically until your eyes bleed... but I am not one of them. But, even in those conditions, your TA will tend to find it's own sweetspot as long as you...