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I have water features that I turned on high, and I gave it an hour to mix before testing and adding again. The muriatic acid was 14.5%. I did not check the TA prior to addition of acid. The yellow Home Depot acid did not have the strong fumes like the clear Leslie's. And yes, I double checked...

So I was a little lax over the winter and hadn't paid much attention to the pool pH, but kept my chlorine within recommended range. Today I checked the pH (which I hadn't done for 2 months) and my Taylor kit showed it in the high purple range (> 8.0). I had three gallons of muriatic acid that...

Well, I'm happy to know others use this method too and that I'm not crazy for using the evil tabs as a 1. a source of CYA and 2. ease of use on startup.

I still have to add acid to my pool every 5 days or so. So the Tricolor tabs would assist with that as well. When I go on vacation, I put three floaters in the pool with three tabs. Amazingly, when I return in 7-10 days, all numbers are good. Just gotta be sure my CYA doesn't get too high...

But wouldn't that be a month of ease just using tabs in floaters? That's what I'm thinking. As long as the chlorine levels are adequate with tabs, I really wouldn't need CYA.

What would the experts think of this: Let's say you've drained your pool either partially or completely and refill it. First, you add enough liquid chlorine to bring it to acceptable levels. Then you switch to chorine tabs, which gradually release CYA. When CYA is up to recommended levels...

I have both, and to save time, I use the dip sticks two out of three testings. There is often, but not always, a fair match. Is this a reasonable method, or does everyone here use the higher end kits like the Taylor?

I am not an expert like mknaus, but there are only two reasons I would use tabs. 1) if you are leaving town for a week or two and need to maintain FC levels and 2) it is an easy way to increase CYA levels (if that needs to be done), while enjoying a break from adding liquid chorine.

I have actually used test strips to determine CYA levels, but I would never dare state that on this forum, ha! My results posted here are all with the Taylor kit.

No, I test the CYA with the Taylor kit. And I was surprised that my CYA was significantly lower than last year. Just added two pounds via sock in skimmer. Levels are now 40, so I'll leave it at that for the summer ahead.

I loaded up my pool with Boric acid a year ago and after that it tested 50 with the La Motte test strips. I tested it again today: still 50! I wondered how this could be since I assumed some minor degradation should occur. So I tested my tap water. Result=zero. I guess the strips work and...

Why wouldn't one make the first assumption that this is algae...with such low FC levels.

Cyndi, I think you mean it is used to DECREASE the pH, not increase it.

Hadn't seen that article, thanks!

This summer was the first for me using the TFP methods. My CYA being 50, I kept my FC 6-8 as recommended and never had an algae problem. It's getting colder now in Arizona. Since algae has less tendency to flourish in cooler water, I'm wondering if I can let my FC levels drop a bit to the 3-5 range?

I was having similar issues trying to read the Taylor pH color, and bought the pH meter shown above. I do use it. You'll need to buy a bottle of 7.0 pH calibration solution and check the meter in this every time you check the pool pH. Calibrating it to 7.0 is a bit of a pain. Self calibrating...

The Taylor kits do tell you to read from the meniscus. I pay attention to it when using smaller volumes, such as FC levels using the smaller volume line. Important? Maybe not, but being precise is always better than being imprecise, doesn't hurt and is easy to do .

Have never used the pool store.

OK so let's say the test strip is the tie breaker. Odds lie in favor of the pH meter's accuracy.

Sounds fine, and I have a lot of respect for your experience and opinions here. For what it's worth, I also used the Aquachek test strip and got a pH of 7.2, so if that is worth anything at all, it would seem the pH meter is more accurate.

Oh I CAN get it now, but I just bought this one and will continue to use it for the time being. But there is more bad news. I just calibrated the device again today to 7.0. Tested the pool water with it. The readout oscillated between 7.1 and 7.2. I compared this to the Taylor phenol red...

I have the one linked in the above post, $15. It's not so good. Firstly, the instructions are horrible, they are a translation from a foreign country. Second, the calibration screw is deep-set below the plastic case and embedded in a circuit board. You have to fish the tiny screwdriver...

Yep, ordered it.

So I bought the pH meter, just received it. It comes with a packet of powder that must be mixed with 250 cc deionized water (not included) in a glass container (not included) for calibration. So I have instead ordered a pre-mixed solution for calibration and some deionized water that is...

Great info! I just ordered one.

So, they are a little more of a pain to use?

I too have had some difficulties discerning the color match. Is the pH meter considered by TFP to be a more accurate means of measuring pH?

OK, the pH is 7.6 and it will be easy to keep it there. Poolmath it is.

I have the same question as to whether I should raise my alkalinity. Tested levels with Taylor FAS/DPD kit are: TA = 60 FC = 7 pH = 7.6 CYA = 50 Borates = 50 (using LaMotte test strips) Using the same equation above to correct for CYA and Borates my TA is 37 I do need to add acid every...

After reading this article several months ago, I cut back to 4 hours a day (at high speed on my variable speed pump). Mind you, this took place during the hottest time of year, in Arizona no less. My pool has remained crystal clear. I test the water almost daily.