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Don't worry about the salt for now, but get 30ppm of granular CYA in there using the sock method and 4ppm of chlorine. Add another 2-3ppm daily until your test kit arrives. Use to figure out how much to add for the size of your pool.

You have an algae problem. The is a systematic, quantifiable, verifiable method of cleaning up pools like yours. Please take some time to read through the process. Googling "breakpoint chlorination" is what brought me to this forum in the first place. Boy, did I learn A LOT. One thing I...

You should trust your own testing (be sure you're doing it right - double check the directions). Do you have the salt test add-on? You should trust this over the reading on the SWG cell. Your vinyl pool doesn't need calcium. Do you have a heater?

If you think it could be algae, run a to rule it out.

You need to follow the . What test kit are you using at home? You'll find the advice around here is to stay out of the pool store and trust your own testing, assuming you have a quality kit.

You can always test the strength of your bleach by diluting 10,000 to 1 - Put 1ml of bleach in 100ml of distilled water, mix well, then take 1ml of that and mix into another 100ml of distilled water. Then test this mixture with your test kit like normal. Whatever ppm you get as a result is equal...

Your FC target should be for the amount of CYA you have in pool after adding, even if you don't see it on your test yet. Previously you said your CYA was 20 and then you said you raised it. If you raised it above 20, your FC target should be somewhere above 10. What did you raise CYA to?

My newest powder had a little dessicant pillow in it and when I pulled it out it was covered in dust. I knocked the dust off into my sample and that was enough to turn it pink.

If your pool is cloudy, you should run an to rule out algae. If this fails, it's time.

Are you sure the white stuff isn't dead algae? Have you done an ?

SLAMing is a process, not a one time application. Was high CC your only problem? How high was it?

When I was using liquid chlorine, I used the ml scale on my measuring cup and had PoolMath give me the additions in metric. So much less confusing than imperial units.

Are you recording all of your additions? Did you not add chlorine after the 23ppm reading this morning?

I can't see where anyone suggested pH is reduced with anything but acid. As Marty said, pH rises because of alkalinity and aeration, not because of the SWCG.

Disappears means you can't see it.

Follow the .

I, too, would hold off on boosting CYA until you have some experience maintaining a steady FC level AND you're certain there's no "rebound" SLAM coming. It's not at all uncommon for first time SLAMmers to find they didn't quite get everything (despite meeting 3 exit criteria). I also play on...

They should be the same,though there is a larger margin of error with the smaller sample. Are you using enough powder in the 25ml sample? Should be at least 2 level scoops.

Your water is too cold to run the SWCG in June in NC? If so, you need to be adding liquid chlorine until the generator is producing correctly.

You need to finish the .

You need to get FC up to SLAM level for this to work. Make sure you test CYA under the same conditions each time, preferably in the shade of your body in bright sunlight.

Some of the confusion here is that TFP recently "retired" the famed FC/CYA chart in favor of a more customized solution. Go to the link provided and fill in the form and it will generate the chart for your situation.

Try making bigger corrections to pH so that your TA comes down some when you add acid. When pH gets to 8, lower it to 7.4. TA acts as a pH buffer, and when you lower it a bit more, pH will start to stabilize better.

I would raise FC a bit to be on the higher end of the range for your CYA.

50% drain should get you to 50ppm CYA if your numbers are right. Go for it.

Think of it like this: the covered pool is its own, months long, chlorine loss test. If anything was in the water it would have chewed through the chlorine weeks or months ago.

The fact that you still have FC in the water after opening in mid-June is impressive. I don't think a SLAM is going to be warranted here. But raise the FC some and run an to be absolutely sure.

You need more chlorine. Add some using liquid chlorine right away. Also, since your FC has been low, run an to be sure everything's okay.

You are done when: CC is 0.5 or lower AND you pass an . AND pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls

It's up to you how long you run. I run about 8 hrs/day myself and that provides all the skimming and chlorinating that I need. You can use to figure out what a given combination of runtime and SWG percentage setting will give you in chlorine addition.