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I'd suggest to try replacing your pressure gauge. Some will wear out quickly. They are fairly inexpensive and are easy to install.

Steve, I know Chem Geek has an intelliflo pump AND has solar, and he has had good things to say about it. Either search his posts or PM him for reference.

I have a Pentair Intelliflo 4X160 variable speed pump (has been replaced by VS-3050 Variable Speed Pump). Costs a little more, but saves quite a bit on power usage.

Y'all must have young'uns and have the "Bee Movie" (like me) and/or that movie is "dead-on". Anyway, I recommend the movie, very entertaining. Sorry, I have no technical explanation for your problem.

The way our systems is plumbed, the "socket" for the Legend is just another return except that the booster pump is piped into it. In other words, it will always have the same flow as the other returns until the booster pump is turned on.

Just what I was thinking. You then would not have to drain the pool, just do whatever kind of work you need to do to the return fitting (glue, etc.) attach the poolskim to the fitting, then plug into return inlet in pool wall.

It's like sportin' a brand new Armani suit :smile: Looks GREAT!

Below is an image of the float valve assembly in my autofill. As you can see, rust is beginning to form at the joint of the float arm and the valve. This happens to be my second assembly installed since my pool was built in July of last year. This particular one was installed only three weeks...

Check out THIS POST for some related info.

Of those two models, you would benefit most from the 20-100 GPM model. Your Whisperflow pump will be turning 1725 RPM on low speed. I know our pumps (and equipment set-ups) are different, but at 1725 RPM my Intelliflo pump is pushing about 33 GPM. I wouldn't think there would be enough...

Rockyboy, I installed a flow meter and found it very useful in fine tuning the efficiency of my pump. I posted a thread of the installation HERE. HERE is another thread documenting a flow meter installation.

That is my best guess on what my pump adds to my electric bill per month during the summer running it 8-10 hrs/day while running booster pump for cleaner for 3 hrs/day. Although after seeing the result of my pump run time in my first year, I am likely to reduce my pump run time to 6-8 hrs next...

With my Intelliflo 4x160, I'm paying about $50-$60 (during peak usage months) extra as compared to before our pool was built.

OK, here's some data: The lowest reading on the flow meter is 15 GPM (highest is 70). RPM - GPM 1370 - 15 1500 - 24 (default speed 2) 1600 - 28 1700 - 33 1800 - 37 1900 - 41 2000 - 46 2300 - 57 2350 - 60 (default speed 3) 2500 - 65

You can place it there no problem. Blue-white also makes a model for vertical pipe as well, if that helps.

I just installed a flow-meter to gauge the flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM) of my pump/filter system. I purchased a Blue-White flow-meter, model # F302 PR for a horizontal run of pipe (2"). I purchased it from HERE. I needed to install it on a 28" straight run of pipe to have accurate...

So far they've worked GREAT! I've got crystal clear water and the pump runs at a low enough speed that its very energy efficient. But I also like the ability to turn the pump up if we want the bubbler higher or when I want to mix chemicals quickly. I have no experience with any other equipment...

Another vote for "the bigger the better" (filters, that is). I have a 11,000 gal pool with a 420 sq ft filter. LOVE IT!

Thanks for the replies guys. My setup has 3-90's and about 30" total of pipe between heater and SWG. Sound's like I should not have a problem. This is something that has crossed my mind as well Steve. Seems like bypassing the heater when adding chemicals , especially shocking, would be the way...

I my Intellichlor manual, it recommends having a check valve between the input side of the IntelliChlor cell and the heater output pipe to prevent high concentrations of chlorine entering the heater when the pump shuts off. There is a similar recommendation in my MasterTemp heater manual. My PB...

I had the "tunnel rats" that Waste mentioned go to work under my deck right after our pool build was completed. They had a return line and a bubbler line mixed up. Anyway, I was there watching them do this and they did HATE it. So much that they did a really crappy job backfilling the "tunnel"...

I'll keep you posted. It may be a few weeks before I get to it.

Jay, I am about to install a flowmeter much like the one discussed HERE. Once I do this, I can give you some very close approximations of RPM vs GPM for your pool since we have very similar setup. Or, if you would like to install one of these on your system, the best price I've found is HERE...

Jay, My "main" setting is 1600 RPM and the Legend seems to work fine. I have noticed that sometimes on lower speeds it will spin on it's side and just sit there and put on a "breakdancing" exhibition.

My assumption is that the main pump "supplies" water to the booster, so I think the main pump should be on. Someone with better knowledge will hopefully answer soon.

YEP :smile:

Well you could be like :super:

That's funny! And yes, Adam is just the nicest, friendliest guy. It is one of the reasons we chose him. It makes the whole thing (neglectfulness) hard to understand.

HA :lol: Oh, and JasonLion, just in case, he's not talking about you but about the sorry, good-for-nuthin, @#$%in pool build supervisor (so he calls himself) that Jay and I both had.

Not necessarily. Is the return with bubbles the closest to the pump? If so, the air could come from anywhere and just be coming out of the first return it comes to. You haven't turned your SWG on yet have you? I'm just trying to think of all bubble producing possibilities.