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Hey TucsonDan, I think that dude who directed you here must be a stand-up guy, he sure gave you good advice! I bet he's good looking too. edit - looks like i need to change my signature since I now have a sandy mudhole instead of a pool...

OK, I popped open the back over the weekend. I cleaned the contacts at the end of the copper strips (I think these are the right ones?), but that didn't make a difference; it still makes an angry buzzing sound when I try to start it on high. The motor does have two capacitors, one under the...

Hi TFP, My motor is acting strange. It will not start on high speed - it will hum/buzz for about 1 second, then stop and wait a minute, buzz, stop.....etc. It will start just fine on low, and once running it will happily switch between high and low. For the time being, I have it set such that...

It's up to you in the end. If the pool really has just one return, putting some more in there will help keep everything properly circulated.

I think first you need to decide what kind of filter you want (sand, cartridge, DE). That will allow you to refine the options. You should definitely get one that is rated for the higher flow rate, but I doubt that any real filter will have a problem with that.

1. When I put the heads back into the floor, do they need to go in a certain direction? I'm guessing all the heads are working in unison to push the debris a certain direction at a particular time. Is this correct? Am I over-thinking this? Yes - however, you do need to make sure that you...

If your spa pump is on a separate loop from the filter, you should keep them separate...the spa will work much better with a larger pump, and you can get an even smaller (=more efficient) pump for the pool. Assuming that is the case, a 3/4 or 1hp 2 speed for the pool, and the same size as the...

You sure you need a booster pump? I kinda doubt it...they usually don't need much water or much pressure, just enough water to wet the slide so you don't stick.

No, the two-speeds aren't smart at all. To switch speeds, you need to either flip a switch or have a timer do it for you. I added another intermatic to my setup (already had a double size enclosure) for about $40.

Yes, it will. I have a 2 speed and no way to bypass the infloor system. I run it on high for a couple hours a day for cleaning then on low another couple for circulation...works well for me. You may want to upgrade your timer so it can control hi/lo as well as on/off.

Another quick thought; could it be leaking out the waste line from your multiport/push-pull backwash valve?

Not sure...if you leave the pump off, does it settle? If so you could vacuum to waste. The filter should eventually catch it all, but we can't say for sure how long that'll be. You could try using a flocculant (rather than clarifier) to help it settle, but I'd probably just let it sit...

This may be difficult if you can't put any water in the pool. The best thing would be to try the dye test (lots of videos on youtube) and see if you can tell which one is leaking. then we can go from there...could be a gasket, or a leak in the line.

First things to check are: voltage - new motor wired correctly for 230v? motor size - not just HP, but HP x SF (service factor). if your new motor is smaller than the old one, you may need a new impeller.

The lower one is not a backflow preventer, just a solenoid valve...so you do need it. Why not just get rid of the lower one and use an automatic valve w/ backflow preventer? Can't really help with the code questions, but that's the first I've ever heard of PVC not being OK to use above ground...

It sounds like maybe the guts are not actually opening to let water past. I think something is wrong with those guts. You could always take them out, put the top back on, and run the pump and you should get flow out of all you zones at once.

You mean keep the float? I've only seen it sold as a set.

You can take a pair of channel locks and grab the whole thing and twist it out (grab the wide metal part in your red oval). They sell whole replacements for $15 or so. The PVC is probably fine!

I suppose it could work. Have you tried putting a little DE in your filter? That is supposed to help quite a bit.

I guess you could use a series of valves in place of a multiport. I don't recall if mas985 talks about the push-pull type of valves, but I bet those have much lower head loss. It might just be easier (cheaper?) to get one of those.

That sounds like the best possible outcome! Keep on that swamp!

Glad to hear you've got it working!

:bump: I can't help since I've never used a multiport, but I know lots of people here can help you...

I think as long as it primes with no issues it's OK. 10' is a lot, and even the tiniest leak anywhere will let air in and water out.

In the collective experience of the forum, nothing works markedly better than plain old sand. If you want to catch some finer stuff that you think might be getting through the filter, you could always try adding a little DE.

A dremel may work. Rather than trying to carve out the inside fitting, it'd probably be easier to put on one of the large cutoff wheels and try to cut that whole fitting out from inside and below. Then you could do another inside fitting and go from there.

That actually looks like it was broken off before and an inside fitting already installed. That may be tough...I hope I'm wrong.

Is the part that's broken off the same ID as the part left in the ground? If so, if you bring it to a real plumbing supply store they should be able to find the right fitting (probably an inside-pipe) in the right size.

Perhaps a skimmer leak? Missing grout should not cause you to lose water...you could chip off the tiles entirely and the shell would still hold it in.

PSA - always have a working pressure gauge! Swapping it out, I can see that the with the spa return open just a sliver, pressure at the done drops from 20 to 5. Shut off the spa return entirely, problem solved! There are popups in the spa, so no need to leave that open at all unless you're...