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My Challenger pump housing developed a crack a couple of summers ago. Attempts to seal it from the outside failed. I was finally able to stop the leak from the inside. I sanded the crack area to bare fiberglass and then covered it with a strip of fiberglass cloth saturated with JB Weld epoxy...

I had a crack in my pump housing and fixed it with JB Weld AND a strip of fiberglass cloth on the inside of the housing. I applied a bit of JB Weld around the crack (after carefully sanding off the white "crust" on the inside of the pump housing) and then laid the fiberglass strip in place...

Re: Liquid filled pressure gauge! Inexpensive!!!! SALE $7.99 Decided I would like to get one of these for my filter. But they add nearly $12 for shipping ONE gauge? :( I suppose I'll see what's available locally first.

Re: Liquid filled pressure gauge! Inexpensive!!!! SALE $7.99 For an extra dollar you could get the 2.5-inch gauge with a center-back mount: http://www.directmaterial.com/2_1_2_Liq ... pb254b.htm :)

See that fitting hiding under the water in your pic? It's just below the white lever. That is the overflow outlet (if your pool is plumbed to use that spot as the overflow). Mine has a standpipe there. It's just a piece of PVC pipe, stuck into that fitting, that extends an inch or two above...

Fixit tip: At the back end of the motor there is a cover you can pry off to access the end of the motor shaft. It has flats machined into it so that you can put a wrench on it to hold it still while you remove the impeller. ;)

I've also bought them at Home Depot.

Also keep in mind that the water needs somewhere to go. 9,000 gallons is a LOT of water. When I drained our pool a couple of summers ago I ended up making a manifold for the output of the pump that let me attach 4 garden hoses so that I could spread the water around our 1.1 acre lot. Just...

I've bought Polaris parts from these guys a few times: http://stores.ebay.com/Perrys-Pool-Pump They ship quickly and send plenty of emails after I order, to keep me up-to-date with billing, shipping, etc. I've been quite pleased with their service and products.

American Home Shield is one that I know of. When we bought our house our realtor had the sellers include a warranty, and specifically had them include the pool. There's a special box to check on the application, and more money required up front.

On my pool, the freeze protection kicks on and runs the pump until the air is above about 36 degrees again. Pumping that 60 degree water from the pool through the system will keep the pipes from freezing. It's currently 28 here and the pump is doing its thing. 8-)

When the contacts failed on my Intermatic mechanical timer, the cheapest way to replace it that I found was with a 240V water heater timer from Home Depot (Called The Little Gray Box???). The only difference I saw between it and the one it replaced was that the one I bought didn't have a switch...

Heat pumps need LOTS of fresh, outside air to operate properly. You shouldn't block the airflow around the condenser or over the fan. I would put it just outside the shed and plumb through the wall for the water flow. Just like you see central a/c or heat pump systems installed.

Just don't venture in to work on the pump or something while the heater is operating. :shock: (And yeah, I understand about never using it. My sister has a natural gas heater on her pool and has used it about 3 times in 4 years. The cost is just too extreme!) :(

Paul, is the exhaust from your heater vented outdoors or does it just dump out of the top of the unit, into the shed? It should be vented outdoors through a vent stack, to prevent carbon monoxide from building up inside the shed.

Having been in the electronics and computer biz for the last 30 years or so, it really bugs me when I see the prices charged for the new electronic controls. Seriously, are we supposed to believe that a simple, slow, 3-chip controller board should cost more than a new PC? You know, a PC with...

Yeah, that's where we are now. Determining which board isn't doing it's part of the communications process. :( Makes me very glad that my pool is controlled by some good old fashioned analog, mechanical Intermatic timers. The last one I replaced cost me a whopping $40. 8-)

I've already tried bypassing the wiring. I took the control panel outside and wired it directly to the pool center. No joy. :( The control panel hangs during boot with all of the LED's lit and then at random times it will suddenly link up with the pool center panel and everything will work...

My sisters pool has a Jandy Aqualink RS4 controller to operate the pump, booster pump, spa, etc. A while back it started reinitializing itself at random times. Now it just hangs during the boot process, usually with ALL the LED's lit and no display on the LCD display. Is there any hope for...

The grease you want to use is called Magic Lube. It isn't petroleum based and doesn't bother your pool. It's VERY sticky and should be used on most of the O-rings on your pool's equipment. The only place that I've found NOT to use it, is the O-ring on the Polaris fitting, where it attaches to...

Which Polaris do you have? My Model 280 uses a booster pump that takes in water from the pressure side of the main pump system. It forces the booster pump to prime.

Only having two return inlets to the pool seems somewhat on the small side. Our pool is slightly smaller than yours, but we have 4 returns (and a ridiculously large 2.5HP high head pump!) :shock:

Where is the leak? At a seam? Middle of an expanse of steel? Near a fitting? If the steel isn't corroding away, then you just need to fix the leak. Find a welding shop that has a TIG welder and knows how to weld stainless steel. They should be able to weld the hole closed for $25 or so...

If you are handy, the main seal is pretty easy to replace, and they're cheap. I paid $11 for mine. Just pay VERY close attention to the way the old seal is installed before you remove it and compare it to the new seal. One end of the seal is ceramic and that end MUST go towards the impeller...

That sounds quite low to me, but I have a 2.5 HP high head pump pushing water through a 60 sf DE filter. After a backwash and reload, mine runs at 13 psi. I suppose that with less pump pushing the water the pressure would be much lower.

All is well. 8) Maybe... Do they also send out the person to install it? Swapping the motor isn't a menial task. The wiring has to be switched over and the impeller has to be switched over.

The bearings are sealed, so you couldn't lube them if you wanted to. They don't require any maintenance. I would just contact Pentair and send them a link to your video. :shock: I expect that would have them sending a new pump to you. That noise could be a bearing or it could be the...

Perhaps making one from some of the plastic leaf guards for gutters would work? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10053

I replaced the bearings in my pump about a year and a half ago. If you're handy, it's a pretty easy job. The bearings cost around $22 and I installed a new shaft seal for another $11 while it was apart. You have all winter to work on it. 8) It's way cheaper than a new motor and if you...

Sounds like replacing the starting cap for $10 or so would get it up and running again. :)