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In your location, if the ports are underwater, for recessed ports in your spa (or pool for that matter) I would use something like a Gizzmo plug. I wouldn't use a hard pipe extension due to the fact that when the water freezes it could break the fitting because it won't be able to collapse a...

You might consider adding another clamp with the gear opposite the current one. I always double clamp those hoses. If it continues to leak, you can buy those thread to hose adapters at your local big box home improvement store. You can also change the hose out to hard PVC piping if your handy...

With your pool being a little over 9500 gallons, any of the filters would work. However, if you could go with the least expensive vendor but upgrade to between a 150 to 200 sqft cartridge filter, I think that would be better.

The general rule of thumb for vertical sand filter sand level is just at, or a little below, the tangential line (where the straight wall meets the dome shape top), unless otherwise stipulated. That way the maximum surface area of the sand bed is maintained.

You could clean the 'stuff' out of the broken off piece and get an internal coupling and glue it into the broken off piece and then turn the piece out. Yeah, you waste the coupling, but it should give you enough 'purchase' (as you put it) to remove the broken piece.

From your description, I agree that it's likely valve #4 that's leaking. Especially since you've already replaced #3. In filter mode either valve #3 or #4 leaking would cause water to come out the backwash line.

It would be best to disconnect the filter from the pool and pump and drain it and dump all the sand out of it on a tarp so you can reuse it. Then let the filter dry out and clean the drain fitting and drain port well and then put it all back together. That would create your best chance of it...

When we had a single speed pump it would suck a vortex in the skimmer when the basket was removed. I bought a spare basket so i would just swap them out when one needed cleaning. That way I didn't have to worry about the vortex issue.

It looks like a Praher TM-12-L 1.5 Top Mount Multiport Valve. If you can take a few more pictures from different angles we can probably make sure that is what it is.

If the stem was metal, I would get a small eaz-out (broken screw remover) and remove the nipple. If it's plastic I would drive a flat screwdriver into the broken stem to make a slot and then try to screw it out.

The indicator bar looks a little 'cocked' so I'm a little suspicious. I'd pull the top off and make sure the pin and spring are seated correctly.

The part number for the top assembly including multiport valve is 11721B. It's available according to the Intex site. 6 way valve tank cover set

I know it's tedious, but a small flat screwdriver that will fit in the groove is about the best way to scrape the old one out and clean the grooves.

Great news. I'm glad they took ownership of it and are going to fix it.

I would tie that device to the bond loop, since it's no bigger job than you say. I don't know how it passed inspection unless the PB assured the inspector that it would be connected upon completion.

The anodes are for a different purpose. Your water could be bonded by some other means/device, but you should certainly investigate to make sure that it is. If it isn't then that device definitely needs to be connected to the bond loop.

It's a pool water bonder. That particular model is made by Perma-Cast. There should be a bond wire connected to it.

That was posted back in 2015 so the location has changed. Just search for the EcoDiagnostics and you should find it. Ecostar-Diagnostics

Looks like a pressure switch to me.

The chlorine is so low in pool water that Buna-N is fine to use without degradation for years.

Building a cover isn't a bad idea, but there are tons of equipment left out in the elements for years. I would at the very least paint the pvc pipe.

Wireform gave you good advice. Forget the glass. If you want to keep the sand filter just deep clean the sand (there are instructions here for doing that). Going to a variable speed pump and an SWCG is a good choice. The good news is that you have plenty of room to expand the equipment pad if...

You could possibly use a street 90º El (male to female), a piece of flex PVC and an adapter.

That pump looks more like a TriStar pump than a SuperPump. If it's a Tristar it has a "T" shaped o-ring. The part number is SPX3200UG

On those filters I believe the diffuser is threaded onto the standpipe. The standpipe is connected by the bulkhead fitting on the side of the body.

I like Magic Lube but there are a lot of them out there. Just go to your local big box or pool store and they'll have what you need. Don't be stingy using it.

Do you lube the o-ring and mating surfaces well? I'd start there with plenty of pool lube.

Once you know what pressure you need you can find a relief valve that will work. I'm sure there are others, but I know that Fuji makes blower pressure relief valves that should work. Here's one place that has them. Fuji Vacuum Pressure Relief Valves

You can buy PVC relief valves but they're expensive. You can also buy spring check valves with 2 or 3 psi springs in them that would act as a relief valve. Since it's not a safety device it doesn't have to be certified like safety relief valves have to be. Do you have a pressure gauge on the...

Thanks for coming back and letting us know what the problem was and that you got it fixed.