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I wouldn’t spend any money on it. Maybe see if you can live without it and if you decide you need remote capabilities then do the Intellicenter upgrade which includes cell phone control. It’s half the price of what your guy quoted you. I’ve never understood why those remotes are so expensive.

Careful with what you teach the dog….

I would imagine chasing the TA from refilling would still require acid and if you’re already using acid, what’s the benefit of using CO2? His TA is almost 300

CO2 doesn’t lower TA and your fill water is high which means you’ll going through a lot of gas. Is this for safety reasons or???

Glass beads over pebbles any day!

Your salt level will rise throughout the summer and will probably be at the higher end of the range by the end of it. Depending on how much rain you get, it should fall through the winter and might need a bag of salt at the start of the next season. Pentair’s use of “ideal “is a poor choice of...

No reason to wait. The numbers look good. I think 3200 ppm is a better starting point. As you’ve already seen, your salt level will only go up. (Edit) Whoops…looks like Allen beat me

That’s the color. The salt test is probably the most definite color change of all of them. Figure 600 ppm into your salt requirement. It’s much better to undershoot your salt requirement since you can always just add more. Acid contains very high amounts of chloride and that’s the reason for...

Especially on surfaces that need an additional procedure on the following day (basically everything now except traditional plaster) since it’s already been allowed 24+ hours to cure. I don’t know that the added complication and daily monitoring provides any measurable benefit. The theory behind...

Even a TA of 60 is out of equilibrium with the pH range that a pool is kept. This only takes into account carbon dioxide outgassing and not other factors like deterioration of cementitious surfaces, etc…

Most pools have upward pressure on pH. The ones that don't are typically fiberglass/vinyl with very soft fill water and large amounts of rainfall. SWG's, high alkalinity/pH fill water, aeration and cementitious surfaces all contribute to pH rise. I would expect you to need to add acid weekly...

I don't think you could have algae right now even if you tried so something isn't adding up. With testing, being consistent with your methods is very important and this seems like testing error to me. What's the water temperature?

Are you sure the testing is correct? Is the water cloudy? Was there ever not chlorine in the water?

You can try this then: https://www.merlex.com/super-blockade.php The pool supply houses should stock it and I believe it can be ordered through Home Depot. There are a few versions of Laticrete but Hydroban is the most common.

The brand doesn’t matter but the rating does. The Versabond I’ve seen is not rated for submerged applications but maybe they have a product that is? Laticrete has exceptional products for your specific application. Waterproofing is similar too. Make sure it’s rated for submersion and suitable...

You could probably cut it to 3/4” thick without issue. 1/2” might be pushing it but it depends on how bad you want the water level higher.

Cut a recess in the bottom of the travertine? How much higher do you want the water?

You’re going to cut and grind the edge? Gunite should have been left a little low and it gets built up to level with mortar.

I normally wouldn’t worry about the backfill, but given the amount of over excavation that you have to do in your area, waiting a week is probably a good idea. You can slope it either way, but I would avoid level. Lately it’s more common to have the slope of the edge go down into the pool...

Not at all, its your pool...epoxy grout has been around a long time and finding an installer shouldn't be that difficult. The majority of pool owners don't know or care how the pool is built. The contractors just want the job to be completed to get paid and move onto the next. Its pretty rare...

That's the correct setup for the lights. Its not the type of lights specifically but the "intellibrite" color pattern.

No, you don’t have any CYA in the pool so any amount of chlorine is plenty right now. This is one of the few times you can use pucks and just let them do their thing.

I would say your pH readings are accurate, and would align with what I would expect you to be seeing. I wouldn’t fixate on it too much, just grab your reading and add some acid if needed. The trouble with using CSI is that it is very accurate based on the numbers you provide but the testing is...

The CH +TA recommendation was made for people that don’t have a CSI calculator. While it works as a general guideline, it doesn’t take all the variables into account that CSI does. What you’re trying to do is maintain a level of carbonate that is over saturated in regards to what the plaster...

You’re planning on raising your TA to 200?

Looks great! The small calcium rise is not a surprise and shouldn’t be of concern. Keep at it👍

Not really, but you get to watch the clouds of muck blow into the pool. The suction and return lines usually aren’t too bad since they were already cut and drained for plastering.

Plan on the auto leveler being disgusting. Clean the bucket really well before hand and it might not be a bad idea to turn it on slowly and use a wet dry vac to clean out the nasty before it makes its way into the pool. Your plan looks good 👍 Be prepared to go through a lot of acid and be...