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I've got the vs950. I run it 1500 for solar and chlorine. It only stops during peak electricity hours (4-9). I bump it up to 1800 for cleaning (zodiac g3). 2500 to 3200 for spa/heater use. I turn solar on at night during the winter, to avoid freezing and during the day for summer for heating.

This might work for a while https://www.homedepot.com/p/EASTMAN-2-in-x-2-in-PVC-Mechanical-Coupling-86003/317555505

Yeah, it's probably almost the same price to just order an identical valve. I'll give the valve rebuild a try. If nothing else I'll end up with an extra valve to use somewhere else.

View from other side

The problem only happens in 100% pool mode. In spa mode the water level is fine. My only concern in spa mode is that I'm sucking a little cold water from the pool which would make the heater work harder. It could be that check valve hindering flow and overwhelming the suction valve forcing it to...

Here's a "better" picture (not). I suspect a problem with the suction valve or somehow it is drawing water out of the spa through the spa air circuit regardless of the valve being closed. Even if I put the pump on a really slow speed the spa level still drops when both valves are fully in pool...

I'll either sweep the dirt into the spa drain or pop the vacuum in there and run it in circles a few times. Usually the sweep method and fish any debris out with a net. Sometimes run the spa and some people stomping around in there will clean it pretty good.

I'll need to take more pictures when I get home. The only thing I have is from when they were building the pool.

I'll have to open up the valve. Maybe it has a bad seal or something. When I put both suction and return to pool it still slowly draws down the spa. It has done this since they installed the pool last year. I have to put the return valve 70% spa to keep water in it with the pump running. Pump...

Hi TFP. It seems like my spa suction valve does not close completely. If I don't have the returns going mostly spa it empties out. Even if I'm 100% pool mode it draws the water down. Could this have something to do with the air circuit for the jets?

My order came in today. 2 PVC thermowells. I'll place them before and after the solar panels to measure temperatures.

To ensure this post never dies, the haywards typically have a 2 or 3 wire option. With 2 wires the heater is set at its max temp and the device sending the on or off signal must measure the water temp. With the 3 wire option the device sending the on or off can select spa or pool temp just as...

Made a chart to help visualize. I also am turning the pump off during peak hours. Went in the spa last night and watched the meteor shower. Saw a pretty nice fireball. Not having to go to the equipment pad and fight the spiders for lights and modes is life changing. I'll tackle Alexa or...

It's not the dollars, I don't have space in my box. I worked on it quite a bit today. I decided to just use one relay for the heater. I now have lights, SWCG, solar, pump speeds, suction valve, return valve with inching, and heater controllable from my phone. Can't really complain.

Need a few more. Didn't realize I'd need 2 for the heater. I can tie the pool/spa lights together to the same circuit or eliminate yard lights and just put those on a switch by the backdoor.

Kind of wish I had a couple more relays.

I think the housing of the pump is threaded so the nut may not even be necessary.

My automation is slowly getting extra duties

Found another oopsie left behind by the "pros" that install our pool. What's this? A metal nut sitting on the circuit board where the 240v connection is made to the pump. Larry Moe and Curly Inc. :poop:

Was able to reduce pump speed to 1500. Got the pool and spa lights automated. No more dripping wet nightime trips to the equipment pad.