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I bought a house with a pool in the fall and the previous owners said the pool heat pump did not work. I don't have anymore information from them. I turned it on for the first time today in order to troubleshoot. My experience with it is that it turns on, the fan kicks on once I set the...

Yeah so I think the difference here is that my panel is possibly an old Cutler Hammer because that’s what is the main breaker panel in my basement. When I search these Eaton UL breakers the one I found specifically says it won’t work on old CH panels. House is very old but pool is only 17-18...

the door panel is all rubbed off. it’s a cutler hammer i’m replacing which is an Eaton now from what I can tell. I couldnt find others that work for CH220GFT model. Siemens and Square D are different shapes. Compared current breaker to ones at Lowes today. Eaton is mostly type BR now instead...

It was the breaker. I grabbed a 2 pole 20amp from Lowes and installed it to see if it would work before ordering the GFCI one that’s considerably more money online. It’s an old CH model so it’s hard to find/expensive right now around $180-210. Thanks for all your help everyone!

I tested and have 230V from the two large black wires at the top of my outside breaker box. I have 0V from the two lines coming out of the breakers to the pump motor. And 0V between L1 and L2 on the pump motor. Replace the breaker?

In this instance - you would replace the breakers to the motors and the pumps should work? I'm experiencing the same issue with reading 120 from each line to ground, but 0 from line to line. I've replaced capacitor and tested continuity on centrifugal switch/starter switch as well as the thermal...

Is that a breaker issue then? Would replacing the breaker to the pump motor resolve this?

Thanks for your reply - Here's what I was trying to say - I get ~120V for each line to ground. But when I test them L1 and L2 together I get nothing. What does that mean?

I don't think I have full voltage right now, though both wires coming in are live with 119V when I test that wire and ground. How else would I test this?

I tested the V shaped switch and have continuity there with power off so that’s not it. Any other ideas. What’s the little black circle up top with CET40ABM written on it? Could that engage before the capacitor or V shaped switch?

Hi all - first time posting and first time pool owner as of this past fall. I had my pool pump motor running 24/7 for the last few weeks (it's not on a timer and I had some algae issues to start season and just never shut it off much). Thursday night while trying to turn on the in-pool light, I...