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I know this post has been inactive for a while, but though a reply might be useful to those doing future searches. My Mom bought the 700 after seeing the results my brother got with his Aiper. She had positive things to say, so I borrowed it for a run in my pool, with pretty good results. I...

My brother bought the Aiper Seagull Pro cordless and gave me his old Dolphin Premier. The Dolphin still does a great job. Our pool is a big rectangle with a 2nd step baja to one side and hidden stairs. The Dolphin manages to get to everything. We had pretty big thunderstorms in the desert...

Salt Reading and % setting have nothing to do with each other. % setting affects how often plates are powered to produce chlorine. Turning your down just created more of a Fc problem. Wait several days to add CYA. It takes time to show up on a test.

We are in Sun City West with a 15X30 and a second step Baja (10X10, 17” deep). We went with an IFCS, but also had a dedicated vacuum port installed. We also went with two Venturi skimmers. Our only water feature is 4 deck jets. We went all Pentair, including heat pump, SWCG, IntellipH. Fewer...

I would add 50 ounces of 10% liquid chlorine per day until you see it holding or increasing. Try to stick to a tight schedule of testing and adding. This assumes that you still have some CYA (35-50).

I think your TA is fine, and will likely creep up some as everything else settles. CH is your pool is not critical either. As stated by others, a TF-100 Test Kit and the Pool Math app will be your best friends. FC and TC do not seem particularly high either. Your CYA is a little high, but will...

I would consider replacement filter prices as part of your analysis. I do not know about Waterway, but Pentair replacement filters are fairly pricey.

I still think the combination of SWCG and IntellipH is hard to beat. You do have to spend a little time dialing things in, but well worth the effort.

Can you provide the Part Number of your Check Valve? I have been using Pentair Part Number 522513Z, which cannot be disassembled. The body is a solid piece of plastic.

Just for the record, I have Venturi Skimmers (2) on my pool. Both are plumbed for Suction operation as well. For the past 6 years I have only used them in Venturi mode, with excellent results. I have only used them in Suction mode to test them out.

I thought I should update. I may have created my own problem. The check valves always failed internally. It is likely due to the fact that I was not diluting the 30% Muriatic 1:1 with water. Initial fill was with 15% from the pool company at startup. The refillable jugs from the local shop...

I have to replace the check valve where my hose enters the plumbing every year. I buy mine via Amazon. I am in the scorching desert southwest, which might make a difference. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KRTHRX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

82 degrees outside today, and in the 90s for the next several days. Filters Cleaned, Salt Cell Cleaned, Acid Tank Filled, Solar Cover Installed. Heat Pump Running. Can't wait to get this season started.

While it is normally the Pump head that needs replacing, my pump motor went out. When I opened up the housing it was a rusted mess. Thankfully I was able to order the entire assembly, and got it in a few days.

You might be surprised how that old antenna picks up digital tv.

We cut the cord in 2016. We have Over-The-Air DVR via PLEX. We get about 100 channels. We subscribe to Philo, NetFlix and Amazon Prime for streaming. PLEX Pass, Pluto, IMDB, F2V also give us a bunch of free content. We do have a library of 1400 DVDs to watch as well.

We had a repair done to fix a rebar rust spot. The patch looked pretty stark until they came back and underwater acid washed it. Now I can hardly tell.

I agree. If you drop pH to 7.0, you will lower TA, which is currently in a very nice spot. TA in the target range buffers pH change but does not eliminate rise over time. MA will get the job done.

Welcome. Take a deep breath and read, read and read some more. Ask lots of questions, and make sure you have a good test kit.

We are in Arizona and do not use a cover. We heat to 84°. We typically use it to kick off the swim season in late April. We have solar power, which reduces our cost. We also use it to chill the pool a few times in August. When chilling, we only run it at night.

Heat pumps can all handle the volume, it is just a matter of how long it takes to reach target temperature. Covering the pool will help a lot. We have had both Pentair and Aquacal heater/chiller units. The Aquacal was the largest I could find at 135K BTU.

I have used hair covers for 5 years now. They do an excellent job, and even have elastic to keep them in place. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XXLC13/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They do just fine mapping any shape pool. My brother has the pool shape of your example and gets excellent results. I think pools with square corners take longer, as the robots spend a lot of time in tight turns.

Save the chlorinator for covering vacations, but know you will also be adding CYA.

You should be fine. We just had ours empty for 4 days in Sun City West for some of the same.

Have a professional look at it. It may be scale that you were not seeing when it was underwater. If scale it can be acid washed and scrubbed away.

It usually takes several hours for the floc to attach to the bad stuff and sink to the bottom. You also want to avoid letting the results into your filter media, regardless of type..remember to vacuum to waste and backwash or clean filters.

My IC-40 is in the same state at the moment, as my water temp is just 50°. It is supposed to work this way to protect the SWG plates, and the power supply. Just add chlorine manually, or heat up the pool.

A 40lb bag of Clorox pool salt is $6.72 at Walmart. It will last you for at least 4 full water changes after initial setup. Let it dissolve for 12-24 hours before expecting it to make the salt cell happy.

Amazing work! Way to breath new life into your pool.