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Also, there's a significant price difference for the RJ-60+ vs the IC-60, especially when factoring in replacing cells long term: RJ-60+: $1769 (cell replacement $694) IC-60: $2428 (cell replacement $1390) https://www.discountsaltpool.com/Compare-Saltwater-Chlorine-Generator-Systems-for-Pools

I am open to this. I was hoping to do it myself and the circupool seemed doable. I will research if the I60 is doable.

So the blue is the return?

I'm looking at getting the RJ-60+. This is what my set up looks like. I believe the yellow lines show my return flow to the pool. Does that seem correct? If so, would I need to install it right before the 45 (in the bottom right) goes underground? Or is there a better place? Also, I was...

This is helpful. I think I am going to get a tablet in there ASAP to see how long it takes it to dissolve.

My current CYA is 50, not 70. I've had it as high as 70 in the past. So, I have about 10 tablets worth of headroom to get from 50 to 70. I just don't know how quickly I will go through one tablet.

I have someone who can come by 1-2x a week but not more. I figured they could reload the tabs and/or add LC. My feeder would probably hold 6 tabs at a time. I just didn't know how quickly it would go through them.

My 15.6k gallon pool uses 2-3 ppm FC daily this time of year. We are going to be away for several weeks so for the first time in my 3 seasons of pool ownership, I am going to have to bite the bullet and use tablets. We do have an in-line feeder for 3" tablets, but I've just never used it so I...

I just sat down to surf the forum for this kind of information. This is my first full summer with the pool and (as you know) the brutal TX summer showed up this week. Last year (an admittedly MUCH milder summer), I was running a CYA of 50 or 60 and would use 2-3 ppm FC per day. Now I am running...

I've found adding 1.5-2 cups of pool grade DE *really* speeds things along with clearing up my water. The first batch of DE is good for about 8 hours of filter time, then I backwash, and each subsequent batch of DE goes longer and longer. Keep backwashing though. It seems the DE catches what it...

I had a similar thing happen a few weeks ago, despite testing regularly with TFP Pro kit and all numbers being in spec (and always keeping chlorine at the top end of the specified range). This is my first spring with my pool. Here in TX, I think we were just having so many leaves, pollen pods...

$4.60/gal for Pool Essentials 10% at some Wal-Marts in Waco. Stock is dwindling though...

LC at Lowe's just now was $5.98/gallon (Pool Essentials, 10%). Ace Hardware is showing $5.48/gal online (HTH, 10%). I've never found any in Home Depot since I started looking in Aug. (Tried again today.)

I’m curious how long people without SWCG run their pumps this time of year. I’ve been doing 4 hours at 1800 rpm but will begin to decrease that and see how the pool still looks. I still need to run the robot once every day or two to get light debris and dirt out of pool that the filters don’t get.

As a side note… this is my first season with a pool and mine has consistently used 2-3 ppm of LC per day throughout the summer. However, in the last week—-with water temps still at 74—for the first time I have gotten zero or near zero FC loss in consecutive days. I was wondering when it would...

You sound like you are frustrated and having constant problems, but it seems the first step to avoid or recover from that is to follow the ABC’s of pool chemistry outlined on this site. Can’t expect good results if you freelance instead of following the well laid out plans on here.

About two months in and my TA stays around 110. I’m adding 18 oz of acid every day or every other day. pH is fairly stable but hoping this helps bring that TA down. The main trouble is the water I add on a weekly basis has such high TA. It will get there though…

Ace Hardware has consistently had HTH brand liquid chlorine in central TX, while HD, Lowe’s, and Wal-Mart never have any.

I’m about a month in with my plaster pool and it’s the same. It pretty consistently needed 18 oz a day for the first 3 weeks, now it’s down to about every other day, sometimes every third day. It is all part of the chemical process occurring as your plaster cures, and my understanding is this...

If you have an Ollie’s, check there too. Easily overlooked place for LC.

Tangential to your original question, but recently I was eating through LC pretty quickly and OCLT repeatedly showed it wasn't due to algae. I figured the sun was cooking it off, so I adjusted my CYA from 30 to 50 and that has helped me retain my FC levels much better with less daily LC additions.

You say you have read the manuals twice and are an avid overthinker. I'd suggest reading this: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2018/12/12/abcs-of-pool-water-chemistry/ and simply following it. Freelancing by doing things like adding shock, are contrary to the advice you will get here. So...

Everything HermanTX just said. The pool is not THAT delicate to be ruined in a week. Just follow the start up manual, focus on pH and after a few days the chlorine per most start up guides. You are gonna be fine.

In case this helps someone else down the line, note that 1 gal of 10% LC added to a 10,000 gal pool equates to 10 ppm increase in FC 1 gal of 10% LC added to a 16,000 gal pool (my size) equates to 6.25 ppm increase in FC So, if I lose 3 ppm FC per day, I can expect to go through a gallon of...

This is what I’ve been using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B9HU8W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_RHQA4QSXH9CV37DDS80A

This tells me how to update software, which I’ve already done. I‘m asking how to set up the password.

how do you set up the password to operate the ScreenLogic app remotely?

Ace is showing HTH brand 10 lbs for $24.