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There are other options too. For FC (not CC though) this drop test https://www.lovibond.com/en/file-download/f159173_en gives ability to measure up to 30ppm. You can just buy the reagents and use your own vials etc.

If you aren’t sure about the TFP methodology preached here then take a look at for inspiration. It just works, is consistent, ie whoever helps you here will tell you the same thing to do (unlike pool stores and pool services that aren’t often even consistent with themselves), and will save...

I’d see how your chlorine loss goes with the UV off. Pretty sure that is using up some of your chlorine.

I think I mentioned previously, I’d love a link to the full chart off the main menu in the app. So annoying having to go to pool school then scroll and click through quite a few actions to get what I want.

I actually keep just north of target, for me with 40 CYA it’s normally around 8 or 9. It’s safe all the way up to SLAM level so having that buffer means if I miss a day or two it really doesn’t matter.

That’s fine for not adding CYA but it is adding calcium. I can’t remember what your levels were but high calcium can also be an issue. IMO you should only use liquid chlorine. :)

Just want to check something here (or did I miss something??). What type of hypochlorite granules are you adding? When you add anything granular it adds something else, eg stabiliser (dichlor), calcium etc. I want to make sure you understand what you are adding and that you aren’t unknowingly...

Just because 3 things agree doesn’t make them right. We’ve plenty of examples of people experimenting with pool stores and people taking the SAME water to different pool stores and getting wildly different results. Guess strips are also not an answer. A quality test kit will save you hundreds of...

Don’t worry about TA. That level is fine, a higher level just causes PH to rise slightly quicker but isn’t bad in itself. Just manage ph, when it gets to high 7s bring it down in increments (so you don’t overshoot) to 7.2. Reducing the ph with Acid will also lower your TA) BTW your FC is...

I’m in the uk and we are still under European rules for a lot of things including not being able to purchase FAS-dpd tests. I had to find a halfway house solution. I ended up purchasing an FC drop test from Lovibond. Test the free chlorine level with this Single Parameter Drop Test Kit |...

Ohh snap. Me too. (The black spots on the bottom are actually shadows from bugs on the surface.)

What are your legs sat on, looks like they are sinking and that’s the cause of the bulge. If they aren’t on thick enough solid (pressure treated timber) level pads then I’m afraid it’s an empty, set up correctly, and refill.

It’s been a while so thought I’d update. 2022 was great with the pool. The heat pump worked well and we had good swimming temps from mid May until mid September. When we got the pool out of storage there were a couple of small pin sized holes where it had folded. I patched these in freezing...

I think he’s already added the first CYA to get to 30 so I’d hold it there until SLAM is complete. Then you can add more to raise it for the SWG and let FC drift down to new (higher) starting point. SWG should then hold your fc there.

I’ve been using a non fas dpd testing kit that seems ok but a bit expensive. See my thread here UK SLAM FC level measuring I couldn’t get a fas dpd test anywhere in uk due to import laws, not sure if that has changed since Brexit.

The free version does I think but you can only log one entry. Ie you’d need to edit the entry or delete it every day and add a new one. For the money it’s well worth getting the paid version. It also means you get a history of what your pool is doing (unless like me you have brain failure in the...

Take a look at the effects of adding in PoolMath. It will show you how much FC will rise by for a given amount of liquid chlorine / trichlor tablet. You can then use the price to work out how much FC / $ you are getting with each. You are clearly aware of the FC / CYA ratio needed but...

If you have “shelves” at certain depths then average is probably good enough but if you wanted more precision you could measure depth at 2ft increments (or smaller if you can be bothered) and add them up. Eg if you had a 6ft wide shelf of 8ft deep 2 x 18 x 8 + 2 x 18 x 8 + 2 x 18 x 8 + 2 x 18 x...

At least the tech got one thing right, your sand is old. Billions of years old.

And the other good thing is we all preach the same advice. Snap @Bperry. :)

I’d suggest starting by reading some of the pool school articles. The method we preach here is perhaps a bit different than on other sites but is based on science and 1000s of pool owners who know it works. The industry is slowly catching up but very very slowly so most places will teach you...

Ps. Ignore my last entered dates!! I’m away for a couple of weeks and I’ve taught my neighbor how to test and dose but she isn’t logging in poolmath!

Did you add using the big + button? Click that and then “log test result”. If you haven’t subscribed you can only log 1 result.

SLAM isn’t a one of dump of chemicals, it’s a continuous keeping of the correct level of chlorine per the FC / CYA chart until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Are you familiar with the TFP way? (Your language makes me think otherwise). I’d suggest reading through the Pool School articles to find...

Normal chlorine loss is between 2 - 4ppm per day. Perhaps time for an OCLT? What is your TA? A higher TA can lead to Ph rising quicker but with muriatic use it should come down and eventually balance. Ph can rise through aeration. Have you got anything running that might cause a lot of that?

I’d say the TFP way is less “use this or use that” more “know what is happening in your pool (do your own testing with a recommended test kit), know what you are putting into your pool and exactly what it will do, learn how *your* pool likes things. (Ps I used dichlor at the start of the season...

You also mention you’ve shocked the pool that came across to me as a one off activity. If you have algae (or suspect you do) perform an OCLT and if you fail then you need to SLAM. The M in SLAM is maintain, ie maintain the chlorine level for slam as per the fc / cya chart until you pass all 3...

Oh and a magnetic stirrer is essential. I couldn’t find the one recommended here at anything like a decent price however I did find an alternative that has been great. Check out my build thread for details Uk - Intex Xtr 18 x 9 build