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I’d be more concerned about that 3” return line in the wall….let me know if it cracks along that line in a few years???

You don’t switch AC with relays…you need to switch ar zero cross-over, use something like this SSRL with SCR technology. https://www.omega.com/en-us/control-monitoring/relays/solid-state-relays/ssrl240-660/p/SSRL240AC10?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_bPU3LyRgwMVgC-tBh3v2gxdEAQYAiABEgL5ePD_BwE

Im still trying to understand why that is considered a “hard“ dig….looks like dirt to me???

Very impressive…

Post your numbers when you receive your test kit….would like to know what your salt level is. Since the lights on the SWG is all green, I assume it’s ok and you ARE making chlorine.

See that fill dirt on the Baja shelf….if it settles, your pool will crack. I’d dig down the the solid stuff. Add a pad to the right and move the spa there.

I don’t know why you guys are suggesting to remove the anode….it protects the heater. it’s also very easy to maintain / replace. Mine is definitely doing something, and my pH is controlled…. https://www.saltwaterpoolandspa.com/zinc-anode.html But, I also have a boat and will definitely not...

Hydro-Ban is a waterproofing material… https://laticrete.com/en/tile-and-stone-installation/waterproofing/hydro-ban?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6KPWoLuu_wIV4jWtBh1IXgi4EAAYASAAEgK4rfD_BwE Lots of potential issues here with a re-plaster, follow the NPC standards...

Pretty impressive that cement block pool lasted that long!

I’d have to agree…before TFP, I was blissfully happy in the resort ENIRU infused, over chlorinated spa / pools. Hmmm, now not so much….

Stop it…we all know that is a photoshop fake…

Mine spills over all the time….I like it better, looks better too. If you run the pump slow, that will reduce the bubbling (aeration of the water), reducing your ph buildup (need to use acid). ps. Grout / tile / stone does not like wet / dry cycles…..

The problem with waterfall lights is the safety issue - you can’t just use landscaping lights, due to shock hazard…and the lights for pools usually requires a niche, and they take up space.

Well done…that SPA wall is awesome - I am surprised they did not dig down the bad soil in the waterfall / shelf area and filled it with gunite. I see a robot in your future….

You have a pool and you live in CA..you’re loaded!!! Sorry, I know who is taking alll our money! :)

Pentair will give you their list of reputable installers in the area…that way, when you do have a problem, you already have a relationship with the right pool company. Technically, any “professional” pool company can install it….

If I get any votes I will post a better picture - either way, if it wasn't for TFP I would not have been this innovative to come up with this design - you guys are inspiring!!! That said, you broke my wallet!! :)

Now find the jet body that goes with it…does this look familiar? https://www.hottuboutpost.com/hydroair-slimline-complete-jet-10-5250wht-white/

Work backwards…here is what come up with those numbers…. https://www.hottuboutpost.com/hydroair-jet-nozzle-1-2-inch-10-4308-gunite/

Why is the Spa Makeup line crossed out - keep it, it’s nice to adjust the spa return flow (I know you could just increase the speed of the circulation pump, but then the pool returns would increase flow too). The second pump for the spa is a must have imo. Just decide how you want to share the jets.

I use the IC60 UV clarifier (white edition) - it’s automatically programmed (uses AI and nano technology) to the shock the pool daily! Recommended by Mr Clean….

It’s pretty much insane all round…typical MP style! The sheer amount of rebar, concrete etc is overwhelming. Would love to have been a fly in the wall in the city permtting office.

Looks to me like an EOS event…board needs to be replaced and this may be an ongoing event due to voltage transients.

In that spa, only one jet is useful….the water is going to spill over the edge of the others if someone sits against them, slowly draining the spa…

Post the numbers….what % is your SWG set at? Also upload a picture of the pool / surrounding area.

I have granite pool bar top and it’s holding up…also have granite bar stool tops under the water. Quartzite could also work….

Maybe they didn’t have a level…or does the earth just lean a bit sideways in Australia??? :) As a pool builder, you’d better know how to level things cause water is the ultimate test…

That SWG needs a certain length of straight pipe before it…RTM.

Follow this chart…3000 for Salt is good, going to creep up over time and the only way to lower it, is to do a water exchange. Add the details of your pool in your signature… https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/chlorine-cya-chart/

You are cleaning the filters in the robot after running it right….do you see the yellow dust in there? Post a picture of the filters before rinsing them off.