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I used a skimmer sock recently and a pound was gone in a couple of hours

I am also leaving for 10 days later this month. My plan is to go to SLAM level on liquid chlorine and put some chlorine tabs in a floater. Hopefully this will keep chlorine at a reasonable level until we are back. Not sure what else I can do...I did this June when we were away for a week and it...

After testing with the CYA 50 ppm standard solution to check my ability to read the test I am pretty sure I am around 40 for CYA in the pool (testing with the standard solution and knowing the answer I would have been estimating somewhere between 40 - 60 for the standard solution). So I added...

Whenever I have tried to use that link I get an error message when I enter my ZIP or Address. Does it only work in certain areas? I wish I could get chlorine at close to $5 a gallon in Northern CA

On the Hanna website the user manual showing autocalibration. Kind of strange the Amazon description is different? I always use an Electrode Storage Solution between uses and find it keeps calibration very well (normally dead-on through the whole pool swimming season). Edit looks like from the...

Hmm... my Hanna meter also has autocalibration - single point at 7.00 or dual point at 7.00 and 4.00. Strange the Amazon description does say manual calibration and that is the one I bought? The third picture even shows the calibration mode with meter dipped in the reference solution.

Hanna Instruments HI98103 works well for me - seems to hold calibration well if you use an Electrode Storage Solution

Thanks everyone for the responses CH Levels in the pool always been within acceptable range when I tested. I haven't tested the fill water (but will) but I am assuming its not high based on the pool measurements I am using liquid chlorine currently As above pool CH levels seem fine - last...

I would love to get a SWG - but the reason it looks like it won't work for me tis that our fill water (from a well) has TA of 470. Pool school says for a SWG. It is almost impossible for me to keep TA 60 - 80. I can keep PH in 7.5 - 7.8 range by testing and adding muriatic acid but TA is...

But evaporation and then refill shouldn't affect CYA level though - right? When the water evaporates the CYA will stay in the remaining water (you are only loosing water to evaporation). When you refill you are just adding water. CYA didn't go anywhere. Now if you drain water - yes you are...

15 plus years ago my pool store recommended I treat for high phosphate levels however based on advice here I did not. The recommendations seems to be if you keep your pool properly chlorinated then it doesn't matter what the phosphate levels are. I am sure my phosphate levels remain high but I...

OK this did work - all 3lbs of CYA dissolved in the skimmer sock last night and testing CYA tonight read about 40 ppm and FC levels still good at the end of the day. Last few years have been in 40 - 60 ppm range (more likely 40 - 50 ppm) so I am wondering about the suggestion to get to 60 ppm...

Seems like this is going to work. 1lb had dissolved in the skimmer sock within a couple of hours. Added another 2lbs which should dissolve overnight. Will test CYA tomorrow evening to see where it is - and add more if needed.

Will try that - thanks. Yes it seems I can't unsee the black dot once I see it!

OK - it seems I am going to have to be careful adding the cyanuric acid to the pool as it is - well an acid... My solar panels have copper tubing - so I don't want low PH water running through them. For now I will try 1lb (probably about 1/3 of the first dose) of the powder in a skimmer sock...

Thanks bought some today and will add a 20 ppm dose and measure in 24 hours as you suggest

I always understood the main issue was CYA build up over time and the only way to reduce CYA was to drain water and replace it. For the last 10 years or so our pool has had a CYA of about 40 - 60 (best guess as the test is not really easy to read). We did liquid chlorine in the summer (swim...

Well it looks like it was the hot tub causing much of the spike. With the hot tub running 1 hour earlier my overall energy use for the hour when Polaris pump and filter pump were running was 2.4 kW one day and 4kW the next. As I said above I have other pumps than run randomly at different times...

Yes if you the look at the Amazon reviews they are consistently bad and reports of drained pools as a result of leaks. I know Amazon reviews are not always the most reliable - but if they are all bad.... A drained pool would be a disaster for me. Trying to refill from well water would be...

Thanks for the suggestions. I am actually running the Intelliflo at 2000 rpm when the booster pump is running which according to the Suntouch controller is 560W (just 130W more than when its solar is running without booster pump). So I don't think its that. I have set the hot tub to run later...

I also live in the Santa Cruz Mountains :)- so electrical cost per kWh is the same :mad: The reason I was searching this thread was exactly this issue. I also use a Polaris 280 which I run for 1hr a day and when I got my electrical bill this week I decided to look online at the daily usage...

Thanks for all the advice - but keeping such a close watch on PH will kind of defeat the purpose of getting a SWG which was to save monitoring Chlorine level and adding Liquid Chlorine daily. I don't think it will save money vs liquid chlorine - but the potential convenience was attractive -...

I found a way to aerate the pool which was cludgy but sort of worked and got the TA down to 90 after 3 days. However next pool top up after a weeks evaporation in California TA was back to 130 - 1 week later and another top up 140 while adding acid to keep PH in correct range. Don't think SWG...

I tested the pool today for salt and it is ~ 1900 ppm - so yes a bit salty but thankfully not over the limit for a SWG. Partially draining and filling the pool would be a nightmare - the well would take forever to refill and water delivery is VERY expensive here. It looks like I would just need...

Interesting - the way he was proposinbg to install the cell the flow would have been downwards. Doesn't inspire much confidence that he knows what he is doing I checked the online owners manuel which does say 'Install IntelliChlor SCG cell vertically for best performance' but I couldn't find...

A few more questions as I wait to see if I can keep TA /PH in the recommended range and test current salt levels. We run the pool pump for around 8 hours a day - basically running in the summer for hours when the solar is heating. Our pool is ~20,000 gallons so I am assuming we should be...

OK I understand. It is well water I have found regular adding of water with this high TA makes it very hard to get the TA in the suggested range. That's why I focus on keeping PH in the suggested range. Maybe I will try to adjust pool TA this year - by keeping lowering PH to the bottom of...

I understand acid is used to lower TA what I didn't understand was how to lower the fill water TA. When I fill the pool I normally have water running into the pool through a fill line for about 45 minutes - how would I practically use acid to lower that much water as it runs into the pool...

TA of the fill water is 470 (a lot of drops of R-009!). Testing in the holding tank where the water is treated with a Triple-O Ozone WATER treatment system system. How would I treat the bulk fill water before it goes to the pool? I am not concerned with TA / PH for the solar panels - as I...

CH about 300 We check chlorine and PH daily and adjust daily using liquid chlorine and muratic acid and Pool Math - so generally can keep within recommended levels although PH is definitely a challenge to keep within the recommended levels (still think it would be easier to separate the...