Thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate your time.
I rarely have to add shock to my pool. Only after we have a large group of guests, maybe. I check my FC once a week and it is typically between 4 and 6 ppm, which I understand is healthy, right?
I don't know how much my...
I've been searching through the forums and am not finding a simple answer for my questions. Maybe there isn't one and I apologize right up front for my lack of education and perseverance.
Simply put, I'm considering replacing my 2.6 hp single speed motor ($400, I think the bearings...
The Pentair tech came out. Nice guy. Went over everything I had done. The unit still works quite well, all of the lights are solid green. I don't know what I did. It started working well after I triple backwashed it and added the phosphate remover. He said that maybe that improved the flow. I...
Well guess what? The green "cell" light has been solid for a few hours. I decided to put some phosphate remover in the pool. So, before I did, I backwashed the filter 3 times, added DE and then added the phosphate remover. I then left the pump running. I've checked it a few times over the past...
I have used my test kit. My results are the same except my copper strips show there is no copper. My test kit pretty much matches what the store says. I gave you the results from my kit, except for the phosphates, calcium and TC.
Ok. I was finally able to get test results:
FC = 2
TC = 1
pH = 7.6
Total Alk = 80
Calcium = 400
Cyanuric Acid = 40
Iron = 0
Copper = .2
Phosphates = 500 (I'm currently removing the phosphates as we speak)
Salt = 3000
I'm on the phone with Pentair right now. We've run all types of tests over...
I have an entirely different thread I started August of 2018 regarding a blinking "cell" light on my IC40. So, I've been there done that. In then end, with the help of some fantastic folks here at TFP, we decided that my cell was dead and that I should replace it with an IC60 to better suit the...
Ok, thanks. I've owned the pool for 17 months of the 26 months of the cell's life. I believe I've always kept the chemicals balanced. I was told to keep the pH and CYA in check the most. Is there something that I did wrong?
Re: Intellichlor IC-40 Flashing "Cell" light Due to Copper in Water?
Ok. I cut the green and white wires (only) to the temperature sensor. I pressed and held the "More" button and 40% lit up. I pressed and held it again and 100% flashing this time. Also, the "cell" light is still...
Thanks [email protected] for your help. The water temperature is 91 degrees F. The flow plates look flat, non-jagged and shiny from both sides. I'll try cutting the green and white wires and let you know.
I really appreciate your help so far.
1. Yes, I'm award my FC is low. I've been adding chlorine because the generator isn't doing it but I'm having a hard time keeping up with the 112 degree heat. ;)
2. I'm baffled by the CH test. I tried it again after watching the video. The same thing...
1. There is a little staining (brownish) on the sides of the pool. I have no idea why there is copper in the pool. I've never used an algaecide, but the previous owner may have.
2. I've created a signature. Sorry. I'm new to this type of communication.
3. Test Results:
FC - 1.5...
Hello. This is my first post to any sort of forum, ever. I've always been a little apprehensive to share my thoughts online. I've never even posted on Facebook.
Anyway, I'm a new pool owner. We purchased the home over a year ago and it has an existing 18 year old pool. It's a salt water pool...