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I was wondering who and how this question would be answered. Nice Jim! it is surprising how badly I wanted to kee FC too low until I became TFD'ed (can that be a verb?) ;-).

Since they usually have a pretty long cable (I think mine is 60'), you can put the power supply well away from your pool.i installed mine by burrowing under my deck with 1.5" conduit. This comes out at, basically, the center most location of my pool. Then I only need about 20' in the pool...

Thanks for fixing my post Jason! Exactly.

While you are trying to get a DPD kit, why not add bleach to at least slow down or reverse the algae growth?

Is it Pentair? I learned a lot about when debugging an issue last year. I can help you make sure your PS is OK. If not I'll tap out.

This may help. As soon as you add chlorine, you have added a tiny amount of salt, and that grows over time. I see you are in Tx so you may get enough rain where your pool overflows often, but I'm guessing not that often. Let's say you are using 8.25% chlorine and your pool used 2FC a day...

I really like my SWG. a few thing for perspective. Pools are sanitized with chlorine. You can supply this chlorine by manual liquid chlorine (bleach) dosing, automatic pump-based liquid chlorine dosing, SWG, or pucks. TFP only recommends Pucks in special situations and only for a short time...

You were so CLOSE! Why did you empty out all the water? And how are you getting your liner to stay flat with no water in there? ;-)

25 ml= 5 drops/FC 10 ml= 2 drops/FC 05 ml= 1 drops/FC More accuracy and precision higher on the list, less accuracy and precision lower on the list. (And obviously less Reagent lower on the list) So the short answer is yes. :-)

I did a slam at 25 for some measurements. There is a surprising number of drops in there. However, this may be the way to go once FC has dropped to 1 or so. Also, slamming at 5ml sample size does what you want. Probably a good recommendation for those slamming at high CYAs.

While it takes more reagent, could this be measurement precision? How about try the 25ml test in the PM and the AM. Maybe you are a drop light and a drop heavy and you really are already there?

Alright! You are close. A reminder for the criteria 1) CC less than 0.5 2) OCLT less than 1.0 3) crystal clear

You definitely have something using up your FC, so while this may seem maddening, you will definitely be happy once you win this war. Are you confident in your CYA measurement? What I'm thinking is, if it is higher than you think, you may be SLAMing at a lower level than optimal. Otherwise...

Ok, good. So when you do the test without diluting, do you also get 70? If yes this is a good level for an SWG pool. If you are using bleach vs SWG, this is too high and you want to drain and refil. So your SLAM level should be 28 (70* 40%). So you want it to stay at or slightly abouve 28. All...

So The Taylor measurement was 90? Will you do a cya test using the Taylor kit with a 2:1 dilution test? if it is really 90 or we may want to address that.

Did we ever get an answer with respect to our confidence with the first test of zero CYA? We have a report of 90 CYA. So is it 30? or 90?

After all that work, why did you empty your pool? ;-)

This is a fascinating post. I'd bet some would want to buy this CYA eating bacteria. If memory serves, you started with CYA over 150! usually this would mean 80% water replacement.

Well if you are diluting 10:1, even if you are at an FC of 180, you would only be 18, so it would be OK. But try this. Keep adding till it stays clear for 20 seconds and constant swirling. When I did a SLAM, the pink would not come back for maybe even a minute. Also, you are making sure you...

Maybe the Weir is stuck? That happened a lot on mine till it trimmed the sides a bit.

https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

Also, Maybe check out the TFT videos of DPD tests; for me, sometimes seeing someone do it helps to get you confidence it is working. Yea, 60 gallons in one day--whew! That is a lot.

You want to make sure you see a little bit of the powder undissolved before you start adding drops. If it is turning back to pink after 4 seconds you are not there yet. But I assume that is just causing you to measure 0.2 low because the next drop keeps it clear, right? Expect it to stay clear...

Ok, so .4 means you are using the 25ml approach, and that means 25ml of your diluted water turned from pick to clear with only 2 drops?

Oh, and about the CH, I have pretty low CH now for the same reason as you; I expect it to climb due to evap. SO... I'm keeping my TA high and my pH a little high [7.7]. But my CSI is approximately -0.2. Interestingly, my pH is sticking at 7.7 with no addition of MA despite an SWG and these...

I remember someone else using manual liquid chlorine put a set of containers of LC, and then had a neighbor stop by each day and add the container full. Made it easy for the outside help. The other approach I've seen is what I've named the poor man's stenner. You use the negative pressure side...

What method are you using to sanitize? Liquid Chlorine? SWG?

So the next thing that happens is, now that your water stays so ridiculously clear, the old plaster looks worse, because now you can see it completely! This is what happened to me, and then I eventually was driven to look for an drain and acid wash. So while TFP has saved me tons of money, it...

I had a DE leak a while back; my filter was very old, so I decdied to replace it. I'm thrilled I did because I went 2 sizes higher, and despite the ridiculous amount of daily trash in my pool (especially this spring), it is still fine after 6 months, and the old one needed cleaning every three...

OK, so if it were at night, this would not be as big an issue. Makes sense.