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https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Precautions_and_Procedures_During_Floods A member a few years ago wrote this to document their experience following Hurricane Harvey. I suspect some of the info will help you prepare. 👍 For sure add some extra chlorine just to get a head...

First and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP! How much water are you draining and replacing? Also, are you on a well or is your iron issues from products like “The Frog” or algaecide use??

Can you take photos of the water and the “mold?”

While phosphates are found and added to pool water naturally, the bulk of the time it's added by humans. As many have stated one common issue is runoff/overspray from fertilizer however there are other instances too. 1. Many products such as metal sequestrants do contain phosphates and users...

The use of phosphate removers has been discussed multiple times and I suspect we'll see the discussion multiple times in the future. In my eyes, there really are two correct answers. If a user lowers their phosphate levels the risk of getting algae is reduced IF they allow their FC drop below...

The CYA drop isn’t alarming really as I suspect it’s kinda a test error. Only variable that I’d tinker with is the pH, drop that to 7.2 and start the SLAM 👍

Let’s start by preforming the As it’s clear there’s something trying to grow. Once you pass the OCLT we’ll really dive deep. Can you post a full set of current results?

Can you share some more details on this statement? Is it gone in an hour or do you just seem to be using more than normal??

I wouldn’t personally use picks or the powder but liquid chlorine can be used for laundry no problem. Just use far less depending on the strength. I would however avoid pouring it in full strength as odds of it splashing are greater and stains will quickly show.

If you touch CalHypo with Trichlor a reaction occurs that starts a fire. Once they get broke down in the water however all is fine, but don't assume they’re fully broke down when adding to a feeder.

I wouldn’t stress much about shelf life next time. Seldom in past experience does it drop quick enough if just purchasing one or two carboys to notice. To help dispensing I’d suggest just getting a spigot and pouring from there. I got this one several years ago. I've also added this listing to...

Meat is one where this shortage can be pointed towards the fact that nobody really wants to warehouse the product. Companies could stock a weeks worth of product to fulfill the demand, but who really wants to purchase a steak that’s sat for a few weeks(unless it’s dry aged, but that’s not gonna...

Rather than pucks, look for Cal-Hypo as I’d suspect you’ll feel less of an impact adding calcium verses CYA.

There's the old joke that get's passed around all the time when poor weather hits about everybody buying milk, bread, and eggs. I always respond that the true pro's however instead head towards the TP. Toilet paper is a rather fast moving item that’s a pain for distributors along with water...

In the Test Kits Compared article in Pool School you’ll see the two test kits we commonly suggest on TFP. The FAS/DPD test found one these two kits are able to test chlorine levels up roughly 50ppm so either should fulfill your needs during a SLAM.

Look around as I greatly suspect you’ll be able to find some liquid shortly. Make some phone calls to janitorial companies and such. Some of these companies likely purchase 5gallon Carboys of 12% that I suspect they’d be willing to order for you if you sweet talk them some.

Sadly........not at all. It's more or less impossible to remove Calcium from your water unless you add fresh water. That said, this quote from yourself kinda caught my attention.......... So let me ask this, what part of the option are you not digging? I ask because I suspect we'll be able...

If I may ask, do you add a polyquat 60 when you close your pool?? Close........pH measurements can be off if your chlorine level is above 10.

While it’s true borates do slightly help prevent algae, I wouldn’t bank on them one bit. The levels that they noticeably help prevent algae are higher than many deem safe. Only really look at Borates if your pH is high. Now let’s look at your question. How can you help prevent an algae...

Borax does in fact work to fend off algae, but not likely at the levels used. As Marty said, it’s maintaining the FC/CYA ratio that’s kept the algae away. The borax just helped with your pH.

I would defiantly start by bumping your CYA level up as that’s the easy first step. I’d start with aiming for 40ppm as you can work up from there. The green spots are somewhat tricky but I suspect a large part is due to the FC drop during the day. I’m guessing because there’s little to nothing...

Let’s slow down a touch and look step by step. Have you passed an yet? If so, when.

A CC level of 19?? Can you describe how you’re testing and coming to that endpoint?

Let's see what your next test result is and we'll go from there (y)

Three questions here come to mind. First, was the yellow’ish green there BEFORE you added the Swintrine Plus? Second, have you used this product (or products like it) before in the past? Last, how much did you add for each treatment? I ask as looking at the SDS for Swintrine Plus it’s...

I’m looking at your logs and see no additions of test results from today. It’ll really help out having that timeline. It appears you’ve been all over the place with testing and such, we just wanna take things one step at a time. So you’re vacuuming frequently and brushing. Every time you brush...

As per green hair, think Statue of Liberty, what’s that made of? Yep, Copper. New it looked like a penny........ How often have you been vacuuming?

When you brush it, what happens?

@CDC First off, thanks for sharing your PoolMath logs! Helps out a TON!! First thing that grabs my eyes are the creation of new test result logs. I’m sure there’s data in this thread but it makes it hard to follow. Adding the test results there is easy to follow. So let’s get you on track...

Can you post a photo of your water?