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Sounds like you’re using the old/retired web version and not the updated App…..is this correct?

Just replied to your email. We’ll help you out 👍

Close @Dirk.......it was developed for boilers. 👍 https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=CSI_and_LSI

Honest answer.......yes. Plaster damage like this takes some time. Keep things around -0.3 and 0 and you’ll be just fine.

One item to toss out there for you @Roadkill On the webpage version of PoolMath, can you hit F5 to update your page. I suspect you’re viewing a very old code that has been updated. As Marty mentioned the math is the same for both currently. Only item that may slightly change is rounding...

First and foremost......WELCOME TO TFP!!! Yo help explain the TA levels, take a look at this short video......

It’ll likely be some time before you see these changed I suspect. The reasoning is because a high TA actually serves a Purpose, to prevent crashing the pH when pucks or Trichlor are used. Seeing how these forms of chlorine are so common, I suspect high TA will stick around for some time.

With the cold water temps you are toying with damaging your surface. This may take years to do, but you’re reducing the lifespan of your plaster and increasing the odds you’ll etch your plaster. The App is simply giving you a heads up that you may wanna take action. During the winter it’s...

You will ALWAYS have salt in the water if you’re using chlorine of any type. Because of this fact we’ve set a default salt level at a “best guess” level of 1,000ppm. You can override this level and insert a zero level for salt, but it likely won’t be as accurate.

How important is CSI? It’s anywhere from a worthless number to a vital piece of info for your pool......one of those two. 😀 CSI as a number can be set aside for many pool owners. Users can often skip paying attention to this number as long as they can easily maintain TFP’s on a daily basis...

Here’s some additional info on this topic, https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=TA#Is_TA_is_affected_by_CYA_levels.3F

Before jumping into borates I’d try running the pool for a month or two without, just to get an idea of how your pH will sway. With the setup you describe it is possible you’ll see your pH increase, in which borates for sure will help. Especially if you have a SWG.

If I may ask, what’s your goal for adding borates? You for sure can add them, but let’s make sure there’s a need. 👍

When you’re entering your data, are you saving the results by checking the “check mark” on the upper right hand corner? The assumed “path” for users is to, Click New Log Click Log Test Results Enter their test results as they test (or directly after they’ve tested) Click the check mark in the...

How may I ask are you testing?

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/why-choose-tf-100-or-taylor-k2006-and-preview-of-the-new-tf-pro-and-tf-pro-salt.217645/page-2#post-1905381 🤫 🤫 🤫 🤫

This video is from the TF-100 Give it a watch to see the color changes. All you’re really gonna see is a close-up of the test itself, so hopefully that’ll give you a good idea how it’ll work for you.

first and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP! Now, if I may ask a question @Gunner02 , Which videos did you watch online? Did you watch the ones from TfTestkit?

Do NOT add 50 pounds of Cal-Hypo! Note that will also increase your chlorine level to around 100ppm. Take a look at this article as well, https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/start-up-new-plaster/

I suspect that the cloudy water was caused by the phosphate remover reacting to the phosphates and will get filtered out in a few more days. This is a negative of phosphate removers of almost any kind and should have been openly disclosed to you by the pool store. In the future you can easily...

Let’s start at the basics, can you post a current set of results from your personal test kit?

What is the calcium level of your fill water? What’s the current CH level in your pool??

I see you’re currently “In the Industry.” Is this a public or private pool?

What you are shown here is totally accurate, but misleading at the same time. pH does in fact play a major part in the amount of active HOCL............when there's NO CYA in the water. Add CYA and you're golden. Take a quick look first at the following video and then take a read in some...

Odds on favor say the refill you get this year will last you all next year as well, depending on how frequently you test. Take a look at the article below which will help you understand when reagents went bad. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Water_Testing_Errors

I think he’s wondering if the pH level plays a part in what level FC the user should be at? Like if pH plays a part in how strong chlorine is?? If that’s your question @TexasBR the answer is kinda. This video should explain more.

I’ve gotta say @HooStat, great job tracking your tests/additions. It really helps us picture what’s going on with your pool. 👍

When you used the Watergram, did you adjust the TA levels? This post describes in more detail, https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/csi-pool-math-or-taylor-nomogram.194679/#post-1715885 The math for both the App and legacy webpage should be the same, as long as all the fields are filled the...

As likely mentioned in this thread one of the main reasons we suggest you bump the CH level up some is to help with CSI as your water gets cooler. You’ll have a fair amount more “wiggle room” over the Winter if your CH is 350’ish verses 250. Now keep in mind both of you likely keep the pool open...

In the industry there have been some rumbling about it maybe best for users to maintain a lower CYA level. I’ve seen it in a few online magazines, and their logic is getting better, but still misses the mark. More and more the industry is seeing the truth behind the FC/CYA ratio. At the same...