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Adam, what salt level are you targeting? using pool math, i get about 250ppm increase for 50 lb salt. I would hazard a guess that you would need at least 2000pm salt to get a noticeable feel. Good on you for testing first. When I converted from bcil to chlorine, i used a ton of liquid chlorine...

rubbing alcohol

another possibility is that he meant nearly identical and not precisely identical. and yes, if this is true, a better expression would have been "essentially the same". of course i have no knowledge of what he really meant.

James, why try for pH 7.8 if it is stable at 7.4? My pool has had stable pH 7.4 and TA 50 all season. Just curious. Thanks.

Are you adding liquid cya? if you are adding dry cya, weigh it, dont measure by volume, although not sure of the density of dry cya or how much difference it would make, just a thought.

Kate, do you have a pool light fixture? If so, have you removed it and cleaned the niche? Did you ever observe pink slime or white mold when you were using Baquacil? If so you may have residual stuff in your return lines that are consuming FC.

Now that summer finally got here-FINALLY-my daily dose is about 2ppm also.

Monty and Kimkats have the right idea, I think. Around here our advice is "Blink, dont rub."

anyone know what pH would result if you mix the prepacked powder solution standards of 6.86 and 9.18? i know pH is not linear. thought just popped into my overfilled, too small head.

also no need to test cya so frequently.

The Leslie's store near me tests CYA; i used to always ask for specific tests i was interested in (haven't been there for tests in quite a while). I did go there recently to buy a watermelon ball on sale. but i digress. Leslie's uses the same wet chemistry test method recommended here BUT...

Actually, that is what i do for both MA and LC. I mark the MA bottle at approximate 1/4 levels and judge from that.

All of the chemicals come in plastic, so...... I dont see why not, but aren't you usually measuring different ranges of volume? that would suggest different size measuring cups. of course, jmo.

ctrinh, looks like you added 2 gal liquid stabilizer which should have got you over 30 if i did poolmath correctly, as "verified" by the store test results 7/3. i'm not sure what you mean by "take out the dry stabilizer...". Double check your cya test procedures and try it again.

Did you change sand after conversion complete, clean inside steps, hoses?

i have a similar size pool and am using about 1/2 gal/day of 12.5% chlorine. cya 40. for reference.

understood. i did not mean to imply that but see how what i wrote could be interpreted that way.

i have no idea but i sure hope they dont have kids.

Question for James, Marty and Richard....does the presence of CYA rule out ammonia? I thought if ammonia was present the cya would be gone. Thanks

Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

Re: Numbers perfect, SLAMing for Days, still not clear:( a couple thoughts. perhaps you need to check the condition of your sand and deep clean it. are you sure your pressure gauge is actually working?

If you decide to proceed, first estimate the surface area, then calculate volume for a depth of 1 in, then convert to gallons. Figure out how many inches equals 6400 gal and drain that far down from your starting level. but be sure to leave at least 12-18 inches water in the shallow end. If 6400...

an easy way to simulate a 5mL sample with less error is to dilute a larger sample. eg, in a separate beaker, add 25mL pool water and 25mL DI water, mix, then analyze 10mL sample of that in normal way. again, this would be used only for high levels of CL at start of SLAM.

based on my experience using sock method, i would wait at least two days between doses. If you dont mind consuming your cya test reagents, test yours each day after an addition to see how YOUR system behaves; then you will know how long YOU should wait. the first time you should not have to...

This is a bizarre story. If it was me, i think i would get a bucket of pool water, add some bicarb and test that for pH just to see if i could see a change in the test. not really helpful though. good luck.

if you replace the valve, consider adding a union between the filter and pump. ps. jobondur, good thought on sprinkler. i can see the spray pattern now. if he was a little farther north i might think red clay.

big picture definitely helps see what is going on. are those pipes painted? in first picture i thought the discoloration was UV deterioration; maybe not as old as i thought at first. if you try to open the valve and it breaks, the very minimum you could do to stop water flow would be to cap that...

Those pipes/valves that we can see in the original pic look like it's time to replace anyway. we cant see what else you have but if everything is that old, could break at any time. what good is a valve if you cant use it? you can probably add more pipeline and add in unions/valves. my original...

is the dot completely visible with no cloudiness whatsoever? if so, perhaps a bad standard. if not, what reading do you get for the standard? for example, if you read 40 for the 50 standard, add 10 to whatever reading you get for your pool water. if you read 30 for the standard, something is not...

well, circulation dead spots might be a factor but that would generally yield spots of algae not general haziness. Any recesses like underwater light niches where something might be hiding? otherwise i would just try raising your target FC bit by bit and see if that works. i'm sure someone else...