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Update-not working so great in windy conditions. recent strong front came through and over half of the foam pieces were blown either into the pool or out from under the cover. sigh.

Mine improved over time after replacing climbing rings; how long has it been since you replaced them? Did you check the styrofoam pieces to be sure intact?

looks like your skimmer line valve and main drain valve are both in the same position. i take it you have already plugged the skimmer lines at the skimmers, but you might try closing the skimmer line valve to see if it helps with blowing the main drain.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/preventing-leaves-and-debris-from-getting-into-loop-loc-mesh-covered-pool.195095/#post-1720135 https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/preventing-debris-from-getting-under-mesh-covers.217582/#post-1924165

you might try moving the key a fraction. turn pump off, push handle down as if you are going to change valve position, but just bump it a fraction and reseat the key. that has worked for me in the past when i had that problem.

i used 3/4 in barb connectors less than 30c apiece. Have had my mesh cover on for about 3 weeks with the referenced foam pipe insulation around the edges, works great. first cleaning of my robot showed only a few leaves in that three weeks. a lot of silt, but that is expected. also looks much...

clever.

I think the first one is obvious. What do you think of our new boat? It's about 15 years old [maybe more!] and I actually fooled one of my brothers with this image. This was when i was using B, no slime yet. Go Tigers!

In this post no. 6 i think you meant to say 1/2 inch barbed connectors, not 1 inch? thanks https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/preventing-leaves-and-debris-from-getting-into-loop-loc-mesh-covered-pool.195095/#post-1720135

Adam, what salt level are you targeting? using pool math, i get about 250ppm increase for 50 lb salt. I would hazard a guess that you would need at least 2000pm salt to get a noticeable feel. Good on you for testing first. When I converted from bcil to chlorine, i used a ton of liquid chlorine...

With your valve in recirc turn on the pump for an hour; stop the pump, leave the valve in recirc. in a couple hours restart the pump. do you still see debris coming out the jets? if not, your valve gasket may need to be replaced. if you still see debris you may have a crack in the return line or...

probably copied the image from a product webpage; dont recall exactly. i have this clock on our porch. also have a Day clock. :cool:

uh, check my avatar....

It will likely postpone your headaches, but the "problems" will come back. I mentioned this is in a reply on one of your other topics. I switched from DE to sand early on in my baqua adventures.

it really shouldn't matter since whatever is in the line after vacuuming will be filtered.. it is not the same as when you backwash, if you dont rinse after backwash, you will see junk coming out of the return jets.

When you are done vacuuming junk, are you allowing clean pool water to clear out the hose and pipe up through the valve?

The leak should be somewhere at the level where the water level stops dropping faster than you would expect from evaporation. Check the liner all around at that level.

Short version-leaks fixed in three different spots, one at a time until resolved. First i verified leak was in the pool and not the plumbing by closing off returns and skimmer drain (leaving main drain open-didnt have a plug for it) and taking level measurements over a 24 hr period. My dye...

Agree with your suggestion. I definitely would have done so if i knew then what i know now.

The best prices i've seen for both are about $2 per pound. Since the beginning of last season i've gone through 20 pounds of cya, way more than i expected. makes me think trichlor tablets may not be a problem for me...

no. nor alkalinity. IF i use algaecide, that would be one, but i dont normally use it.

If you are concerned about economics, it is way cheaper than pool store brand chemicals. If you are concerned about needing massive quantities due to concentration, dont be. If i have misunderstood, it wont be my last time.

@anthony, as i recall, somewhat vaguely, my wwm/slime problems started about 15 years in, and i have no idea why it started, but once it did....

I started under the old, pre-CDX system and switched to CDX when i started having mold/slime problems. I used their basic algicide, filter cleaner, floc (i added some to the skimmer after backwashing as it seemed to help, or at least didn't hurt), Line Clean for mold/slime. By the time i became...

rubbing alcohol

I try NOT to taste pool water. lol

@anthony, my initial decision to use baq was based on less work involved. test/treat once a week vs daily chlorine (SWCG's were not common at that time). I still dont have SWCG but might before too long. Baq is definitely more expensive. I had no problem with water feel/smell....until wmd/pink...

@anthony, several more comments in no direct order: 1. Switching to sand filter will likely be a short term improvement. i had mold/slime after switching to sand. 2. Have you chemically cleaned your DE filter grids? I had the old style tentacles/fingers and after multiple power washes they would...

Anthony, my experiences with WWM were in the return lines, not on the pool walls. I could see the flakes coming out the returns. In fact, the year i converted, I still found some WWM coming out the lines, so I went into a line clean operation to get rid of it. I isolated the return lines by...

I was going to disagree respectfully w/Leebo and say the size and being on CDX make draining even more attractive, then i saw your comment about being on a well, so, well, forget it. :cool: