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I don’t think you were supposed to mix the sample. It’s already a mixed 50ppm sample when you get it. You simply pour it in the comparator tube and verify you can read it correctly at 50ppm.

You know, I never looked at that page before. If you keep good records, this gives you a nice summary. Of course you can also export the logs to csv and do whatever you want to in a spreadsheet..

Please do a OCLT to see if you are losing chlorine overnight. Check chlorine after sunset, turn off SWCG and then check in the morning before the sun hits the pool. I think this is way overdue in your case.

You don’t want to go below your minimum FC for your CYA level. Your CYA is 40 so your minimum FC is 3ppm with 5-7 your target level. You need to know what your FC loss is per day to make sure your don’t go under the minimum FC. It looks like you bring it up when you add chlorine but if your...

If your CYA is 50 now, Your SLAM level FC is 20. Follow the SLAM Process as mknauss indicates above.

Yes, leave the chlorinator off until you’re finished.

If you’re not going to do any further water exchange, I would try to keep your FC between 10-15 aiming towards the upper end.

What @HermanTX said, FC needs to be about 12-16.

Our Home Depot has Acid @ 31.45 in the garden area. Don’t look for it in the pool isle, it is usually outside.

I just gotta say, this gave a real good chuckle..

You can go lower on the TA, I have mine at 50 which is “finally” helping my PH issue. Mine sounds a little like yours, I even purchased Boric Acid to add to my pool once I know it’s stable. I have not committed 100% to adding any borates yet but I did already buy some in anticipation of doing...

What brand chlorine? You want plain old bleach with no additives. Nothing with "blue" in the name for sure.

I completely understand you’re trouble with the CYA test. Many people have that problem. What I would suggest is to order a test sample for CYA from tftestkits. That way you can look at a known level of 50ppm and see where you really are.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it? Looks good to me though.

Mark, You seem pretty resistant to SLAMing, if your pool is clear now it should only take a few days to rule out algae and then you just cross it off the list. If I were you, I would slam (because it's the rational thing to do to eliminate algae as the cause).

Check the reagents you are using. Sounds like you might have used the wrong one(s).

Not a bad idea really, the option should be there, grayed out with maybe a message to the fact that it is a subscription only option.

I’ve got Ver 3.3.5 (3413) on Android and I have the export to CSV option.

Yes, pool math will tell you how much to add. I would go a little light on what it suggests just in case your pool volume (40,000) is not correct. You can always add more but in cases like CYA, it’s not easy to remove. Put in your current levels and target level and it will tell you.

I just bought the sample sizer and I must say, it is nice to easily get the right amount of water... no fuss no muss.

You backwashed, lost water while doing so, now you need to replace that water. As suggested, you need to add a few inches of water there.

I did a 50% drain / refill to lower CYA on a house in Phoenix two weeks ago. Its a bit painful but I ran two pumps to drain to 50%. I babysat the pool keeping the pebbletec plaster moist all the time with a spray from his hose. As soon as we hit 50%, threw 3 hoses in and filled while keeping...

3000 RPM will use a lot more electricitY than 1800... I have a inteliflo w 3HP: 1800 RPM = 400 watts 3000 RPM = 2000 watts Big difference... I usually run 1200 watts which uses about 75 watts.

After some thought, I think I will nix the 90 as it puts the injector in a location easy to break if I need access to my AC which of course you can’t see in the picture.

To me it looks like it was significantly patched above the opening. I would just suspect that it was sinking perhaps and the 4” pipe keeps it stable. Looks kinda like a MacGyver fix.

Happens to me a lot if I accept the suggested amount. I have only seen it on Chlorine so far and it’s normally on my android phone. I have the iPad app too so I can try to see if it makes a difference if I log it there instead, it might.

While it doesn’t matter the reason I do it at night is if the chlorine is getting toward the low end of the range for my CYA, by doing it at night it leaves less time toward the lower end of the range for me. I know it really doesn’t matter, it’s a all in ones reasoning..

Right now I am leaning towards the 45, it is more “out of the way” of any normal foot traffic that might bump it. The only reason to not put it there would be my filter pump failing. I would know that pretty quick. I also run my VS pump around 1200 rpm about 15 hours a day. I know I don’t...

I bought a 2 x 2 x 1/2 Tee and just tried the 1/2 inch threads on the injector, I think I like it with the injection point a little deeper. I agree that you have to mount wisely and consider the best location to help prevent errant bumps.

Hey, that's what I said... Thanks for the opinions. If I was to put it on the 45, in the unlikely event that the pump wasn't running, seems that chlorine could gravity feed back to the filter. I'm not sure what might happen in this case, anyone?