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Good morning Johnny. My main concern would be the plumbing between the spa drains and pool or how that water is transferred. But it looks like you already have an ice shelf going. I'll lag @ajw22 on this one.

Welcome to TFP! :wave: For those who completely close and shut everything down, once the pH, TA, and CH are balanced, the biggest thing is adding the proper amount of FC (based on the current CYA) to prevent algae while closed. he links below will help...

It's very common for pools in areas like ours to remain open year-round. The cooler water and less evaporation makes chemical treatment much simpler. Chlorine isn't needed nearly as often (maybe once or twice a week), and since water doesn't need to be added as much, other levels stay more...

If the water temp remain below 60 you should be okay. Many in your area leave the pool operational and just reduce run times, etc. But since you already made closing preparations, you can just leave it off as long as the water is cold. As soon as water temps approach 60, start running the...

Hello Tim! :wave: Looks like your first post was incomplete. Did you have a question or was this posted in error?

There should be no issues with what you have done. Those occasional winter weather systems that drop-down on your area are few and not long-lived. The only concern might be residual moisture in the pump and/or filter - basically anything exposed. You don't want moisture freeze/expansion in...

No problem. While your CYA may be questionable right now until the K2006 arrives, you seem to have a good FC level. Liquid pool chlorine and/or regular (plain) bleach is your best FC product in the future, Cal-Hypo adds calcium which can be troublesome over time, so use it sparingly. The pH...

This being your first year is probably stressful. It WILL get better. You will look back and shake your head about all the panic. While you are limping along until closing, chemicals should not be difficult at all. Proper testing cannot be overemphasized. I'm not familiar with the kit you...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: Members have the best success by closing as follows: 1. Close as late as possible 2. Ensure water temps are 60 degrees or lower (colder the better) 3. Ensure water is algae-free. Perform an if needed to confirm. 4. Increase the FC to SLAM leve prior to closing per the...

Welcome! :wave: If your project is like mine, it will be good to keep the system running until the concrete work is done because more than likely they will make a mess and get junk in the water. You'll want to clean it out when they are done. At that point, you have the option of closing...

Yes. Same concepts would apply really by clearing the lines with air then securing the suction and return ports with plugs. The link below shold help you. If the lines are properly cleared with air, that's not really necessary since there should be no water inside to expand. Some owners who...

Here are some things we should address first to better help you: - Are you sure the tea color is from leaves? Just in case, are you on a well (iron)? - Can you post a full set of test results? - Which test kit do you use? - Update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info (include...

Vacuum. Duh. :brickwall: Much better. :goodjob:

The colder water will probably slow down the dissolve time. You definitely don't want the acidic granules staying in one place or they can fade the liner. You might consider (if you can) trying to scoop some of it out with a net. Then you can place them in a sock to dissolve.

Yeah, I've heard mixed reviews on those faceplate covers and whether they're worth the effort. Many will just take the water down a bit and be done with it.

I might be more concerned with a pool leak at that point (soil or behind liner). I suppose with your pool partially buried, the skimmer end is underground? Is there any reason to suspect unusual water level drops?

Good catch Steven. :goodjob: Honestly, I'm not sure if one is really more better than the other. Maybe try the tape first. If it works, you save a few steps of blowing out the suction line again. If not, well, then a new faceplate may be your next option.

Sure. :goodjob: We'll standby for now. Let us know if more water seems to show-up that doesn't make sense. If so, we'll get some more eyes on your thread just to make sure we haven't overlooked something.

I see. So even though you didn't see any water seeping from the skimmer winterizing faceplate on the side, I can't help but wonder if during day/night temp changes that's where it's coming from. I also wondered if you had the conventional skimmer cover on top (with the two holes)? It's under...

Just to confirm, is this plastic cover on the top skimmer? Not one of those wall-side skimmer faceplates at the flap opening right? Is the water level below the skimmer opening right now?

Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: In an effort to account for the mystery water in the skimmer pipe, sometimes a pic is best. If you don't already have a pic or two of your equipment pad and pool, can you post those tomorrow? It sounds as though you have seperate skimmer and drain lines back...

I think you're on the right track. :goodjob: - Clean pool as best as you can - Focus on pH and FC for sure - Increase FC to 20. If you plan on adding Polyquat 60, you might only take the FC to 10-15. If not, an FC of 20 is fine. - Adjust water & cover to prevent roofing materials and other...

The only potential consequence I can think of is the elevated FC possibly impacting the liner a bit (fading), especially if you plan on using a cover. That might be a stretch, but I'd want to play it safe. So if you are not rushed to close, I would keep the water moving since you over-shot...

A few hours isn't going to be a deal breaker. I'd still prepare to close.

Mendy, if you need to close, go ahead. Be sure to give the Poly 24 hrs to mix before you shut everything down and you should be fine.

Now that's you've done all that prep work, I would probably cover to keep the pool from getting dirty. When it's time to close (24 hrs prior) add the Poly is you wish and call it a season.

I think you have a few things to consider, especially if we compare closing in your area to those up north. Up north, the extended, very cold winters they experience can result in an ice shelf. It often requires them to lower the water level below the waterline tiles to reduce the chances of...

While letting the FC fall below minimum levels is always a risk, the Poly "should" keep you safe for a while. Hopefully you don't lose that much FC after the add. Take a peek at the link below for more info though. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Algaecide

No worries. I was able to add the sig for you. :) Remember with phones, you may have to turn it sideways to see the entire page. While not mandatory, it's common for owners to increase their FC level to SLAM level (in your case 20) or close to it in an effort to ensure there is no excessive...

You are in familiar company this year. For sure a low FC level is out. Too high and you know it won't last long. So I'd go for the middle of the road (mid-SLAM) with the FC and add the Poly just before shutting her down. As for the dosage, you might err on the side of caution and meet at...