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:goodjob:

Flooding is sometimes a concern. But if your equipment pad is positioned in such a way that the pump (motor) won't get submerged, you should be fine. Power outages can occur, but usually aren't long enough to be much trouble. Good luck!

The dye test is one (DIY) way. Leak companies have other methods to check for leaks, especially if they wish to rule-out plumbing. Since you have a drain, it would be important to determine if the leak is from the drain plumbing itself, or perhaps related to a hydrostatic valve in the drain...

That's a strong possibility. Do you have a main drain? Drains can be troublesome. If not, the liner may be the culprit. :( https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/leak-detection/

That is horrible. Very sorry. If possible, I would continue to manually remove as much metal and foreign objects as possible to help prevent staining. Do it now while you can still see in the water. Other than that, if you can't get power to the pool, let it turn green and worry about it...

24 hours should be long enough to give you an indication as to a leak or not. The page below has more details if you haven't seen it already. Evaporation probably isn't such a big influence this time of year, but wind sure could be. WIth no cover, that might be one area to consider...

Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Not necessarily. Your call. You can pump water out quickly from the return T. I have something similar when I need to drain water quickly. But if you ever needed to vacuum junk to waste, you would want it directly after the pump before the filter (same function as a multiport valve-WASTE)...

Looks pretty good. I'm assuming the vertical segment is for a salt generator? Have you considered a valve after the pump-before the filter so that with a cart filter, you would have the option to pump water directly to waste? Some like that option. Or at least a hose bib.

Charlie, we had to move your post since it went to a very old thread (rule thing). But hey, checkout the link below for some ideas. Hope that helps. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skimmer_Guards

Should be the same principle overall. Have you seen this video?

Much of what you ask depends on the type of light. The smaller LEDs have no niche behind them, so yes, the water level needs to come down, or else once you pull the cover cap and unscrew the light itself to break the seal, water will get in the conduit. That's different than a halogen light...

@Kirstine, first off ......... Welcome to TFP! :wave: Along with Matt's comment about the MA, I'll add some things since you are new to us and mentioned the algae stop and clarifier. I would encourage you to visit our page to understand the TFP concepts, and be sure to update your signature...

No Victor, I never diluted my food coloring. Just squirted it carefully around any suspect areas then watched the cloud. Maybe the bucket test will give you some confirmation. Good luck!

Sounds like you've got it down to a science now. :goodjob:

For only a week, you have a few options: - Temporary cover - Ask a friend to clean out the skimmer basket daily - If you have a main drain, set the suction to that - Create or buy a type of skimmer leave block (see below) https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skimmer_Guards...

Jim, you know the A/F maintenance concept .... grab some duct tape. Bwahaaahaaaa.

Leaves can stain. How tough those organic stains would be to remove later is hard to tell. Ideally, I would try to remove them since it's so early in the closing season. Easy for me to say though, I'm not the one doing it. :)

Liner changes are expected to happen, but it varies by pool, and certainly not within just a couple years. Besides overall age, the quality of the liner and chemical maintenance are probably two of the biggest culprits to changes in a liner. You don't have a signature loaded so we don't know...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: For your light, let's call on the help of @jimmythegreek who might be able to point you in the right direction. Best of luck, and have a safe winter. See you next season. :swim:

When I did a test, I injected the dye closely to any suspect areas. The tube at the end of a syringe helped me quite a bit. If there's a leak, ideally the dye will drift towards the leaking area.

If you suspect you have a leak behind any tiles, that would mean a compromise in the gunite shell behind it. I would think leaving the water level high enough to keep the tile submerged would be an ideal way to see if any dye gets sucked between or behind the tiles.

Ha ha. Yeah, it can be tough to stay submerged. If you don't have a weight belt, maybe try "gently" lowering a cinder block by rope to the bottom? You can either keep the rope taught by tying it off to something. Then when you dive down, you can hold the block with one hand to help keep you...

That's good to hear.

Appears to be a gelcoat issue. Perhaps something during the manufacture or application process. Make sure to have your test records/history available as I'm sure they will ask for it. Curious to hear what your installer or Latham have to say about it.

Can you post a pic or two? Might help.

Oooooohhhhh. Very nice. :swim: For the first (mystery) valve, you may have to just slowly open it and see what changes with water suction. Maybe each drain is plumbed separately?

Welcome to TFP! :wave: Those valves are all on the suction side of the pump, so they are pulling water. I suspect you have something like: - One poolside skimmer; maybe two plumbed separately? - Main drain - Spa - Dedicated port in the wall for a suction cleaner? It would help if you updated...

In that case, if you are sure to have ruled-out anything above ground and feel confident it's in the liner, there's two things to consider: 1 - You could let the water drop a bit to see if it stops. That new waterline would be an indication of where the leak is. 2 - But if the tear is lower or...

The water must be getting chilly. Are you still able to get in there to search for a leak?