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Welcome to TFP :) It looks like these guys make them and should be able to tell you were to buy them :) https://familyfunpools.com/uniwall/ https://familyfunpools.com/contact-us/

Amazing, from when you found the pool to now, just amazing :)

gunite, plaster, tile and grout are not waterproof, they let small amounts of water through constantly... When stone is done like that it should have 1 or 2 layers of waterproofing done under the stone to prevent efflorescence.. Until it is fixed it will look like that... You may use some...

you have looked at all these options and know exactly what you are looking at.. I have no idea what picture is what... As for what you like it will always come back to what you like :)

Your sand may need to have a deep clean done, it is not hard but it should get rid of the clumps in the sand :) https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/deep-cleaning-a-sand-filter.73192/

I am doing an all tile pool for those exact reasons... Great for water balance, no harsh sandpaper or rocks on the body and feet, lasts 30 to 70 years without having to redo and really raises the value of the home... best of all the pool surfaces and why most commercial pools are built using...

Nope, you can have a raised beam as far out of the ground as you want/plans call for, mine will be about a 6 inch raised beam... :)

Welcome to TFP :) When you contact pool builders ask them for a list of previous builds that you can go and see and talk to the owners... You will get to see the quality and talk with the family that went through it... Remember the cheapest build is just that, cheap and the most expensive is...

the crew will stick a board behind the form and shoot the gunite in and move to the next section :) you can see the boards they will use in this video

Welcome to TFP :) All pools are salt water pools, after a few months there will be about 1000 ppm salt in a normal chlorine pool and after 2 years you will be above 2000 ppm.. A salt water pool is about 2000 to 4000 ppm and the ocean is about 32,000 ppm.... Any metal pool walls will rust it...

I would put it on a short wall so you can get some circulation going.. I use a shop vac and blow the water out, it does take some time doing it but I do get all the water out :)

I keep my FC between 7 to 9 at all times with my SWG... your TA and PH are fine at that level, don't worry about PH until FC over 10... Your CH is a little low but I would not add any, what is your fill level? your TA is a little high but it will come down by adding acid to reduce your PH...

Welcome to TFP John, I upgraded mine to hard pipe and have 1 skimmer, 1 suction side cleaner port and 2 returns on 1 side of the pool and it works good, not great but the oval does not circulate well unless there are returns on more than 1 side... if you do add another return try to put it on...

Welcome to TFP :) Glad to have you with us...

Welcome to TFP :) I can say the pump and filter are a great start.. Get rid of the infloor cleaning system at all cost and get at least 2 preferably 4 returns, it will serve you better in the long run (think after 15 after years).. Get yourself a robot from marina pool and spa in and call it...

most cells will not work below 60 degrees so that makes sense that it is shutting off.. You will need to manually dose chlorine in the winter or when the water is below 60 degrees :)

That is exactly what I am doing, 6 inch waterline tiles and the rest 2 inch tiles :)

these are the best shots I have of the actual pipe :)

recommend robot over suction and would never recommend a pressure side cleaner as they take another pump and the cleaner... considering the robot is just about the same cost once you buy the suction side cleaner and have it plumbed into the pool... :)

Most do not have all tile pools and I bet/guess it would be less than 5% of all pools are all tile... I am getting ready to take the challenge of building an all tile pool in the next couple years :) The problem will be getting someone to do an all tile pool with the correct systems to...

5 years and not 1 issue, no leaks what so ever.. You can see 1 of the pipes in the following picture, I used 45's to get the pipe under the poles and have the ability to move around with the pool... the side of the pool does flex about an inch in each direction... :)

I basically have the same pool, I went with 2 returns in the old suction ports, 1 suction side pool vacuum in the old return and a new skimmer, works as well as can be :) If you can find these it will make your life MUCH easier, I used 1 on each connection to the pool, skimmer, and my in...

there have been a few people with them or asking about them on the site :) https://www.troublefreepool.com/google-search/?q=Hydra+brand

you may be right, Now that I reread it :) OP, please let us know....

your resin pool will come out of the ground looking the same exact way it was put in after 5, 10, or 15 years... The steel will be rusted but who knows how much and when the failure point will be... if you have any doubts go with the resin :)

@ajw22 They are talking about a Spa/hot tub :) You may need to do an Ahhsome purge to clean any gunk out of your spa... Has anything changed? How are you chlorinating your spa? You chemistry will still be needed :) Post your water chemistry... FC CC pH TA CH CYA Water Temp

I am very happy people are getting the Vaccines, its just slow now but it will get faster as they get better systems in place... :)

if the SP8100UNPAK - 2 nuts, 2 orings, 2 barb adapters, 2 slip adapters (This is what came with the pump.) why cant you use this, it is a 2 inch union and should work fine..

that is the 6 inch, should be no issue with replacing... :)

Aha, and there it is... it helps with splashout and with the opening higher up you still have an overflow.. :) Now were talking...