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:goodjob:

Many freeform pools can be tricky to determine the volume. You have a starting point of about 20K, so go with that. After the water exchange, you can use the APP to determine future dosage amounts. If you find that you used too much product and over-shot your target, then the pool is...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: You are correct in that your first action item needs to be lowering the CYA which can only be done via water exchange. But before you do that, make sure to test the CYA today under some good sunlight outdoors. See my notes below. You might also use the CYA diluted...

Don't get too wrapped up in CSI. It's a great tool in your TFP toolbox, but in general, as long as all of your standard parameters are within range, your CSI will be fine. Remember the CSI tends to drop in colder water, but soon it will rise. For now, keep doing what you're doing. However I...

Tech, it looked like you requested some specific replies to your questions, so I wanted to be sure we did that for you as follows: 1. The TA can vary and we have a lot of leeway. Finding the right TA is often times based on your equipment (i.e. SWG) and how quickly the pH rises in your pool...

Definitely don't SLAM or you could go backwards from the effort you did with the AA treatment. It's possible there is still residual AA product in the water depleting your FC. You have the right idea with adding chlorine manually, but instead of adding every few days, I would add a little at...

Also, you might avoid the tabs. They are acidic and further lowering your pH and TA. Just add regular bleach or liquid chlorine as needed.

"42", I'd like to address your main question. PH and water temp have the biggest and most immediate impact on CSI. Your CH is fine, but your TA is a bit low. As noted above, I would let the pH rise to about 8.0, maybe even 8.2. Also increase the TA to about 60 for now and see how those two...

Barbie pink. That's what you're looking for. Maybe these links will help. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/total-alkalinity/

Congrats on the new pool. One thing for sure, you have to pick one resource - TFP. Other sites will have various recommendations, and often times they are incorrect for reasons you'll learn about shortly. For your FC question, always go to the . Compare your FC to your current CYA and keep...

At this point it's worth a try. On occasion the ID kit confirms something the DIY tests simply don't catch.

It may be tough to get the CH much lower since your fill water is so hard already. You can try, but don't be surprised if it just sticks at one spot and doesn't drop any further. Beyond that, adding softened water or collecting monsoon seasonal rains may be another option to add softer water...

That's understandable. In cold NJ water, the pH can easily rise and settle to around 8.2-8.5 and should still be okay. Your CH is also on the low side which should help to reduce the likelihood of scale.

The cold water should help to keep organic activity at bay until you get things running again. But with an FC close to zero, I would make plans to open as soon as you can in '21. Thanks for posting.

I wouldn't bother messing the pH at all. Just let nature do its thing between the rising pH and cold water which will compensate. I am surprised however to see the FC drop so much. Did you add any Polyquat 60 algaecide by chance?

I wouldn't try to mess with it. Just allow the pH to climb a bit more this time of year to compensate and you should be fine.

Welcome! :wave: I would also recommend you bookmark the link below. It has a ton of info to help. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/category/pool-school/pool-care-basics/

That must be frustrating. :brickwall: Feel free to post a full set of test results with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C and we'll be happy to help you with any chemical questions. The diluted instructions for a high CYA can be found HERE starting at step 8. Good luck...

Since Vitamin C didn't work, maybe try some dry acid in a thin sock? If that works, it's copper.

Sounds as if your TA is indeed very close to being in a good, stable place. :goodjob: I suspect you're not seeing the TA fall much more because when you do add acid, it's not enough at one time to pull it down. On a separate note, even though this is an indoor pool, you might reconsider...

Paula, both the TF-100 and Taylor K-2006C are outstanding products. But IMO, the TF-100 is the better value (packed w/ Taylor reagents). If you can swing the magnetic speedstir, I highly encourage that as well. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/test-kits-compared/

Sounds like there are a few things to discuss: 1. You must test your own water with either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. While you may not feel confident right now, the only way to gain that confidence is by doing it and asking us if you have questions about either test. But each time you rely...

Welcome to TFP! :wave: My guess is that you are still relying on pool store testing correct? We highly encourage you to test your own water to be sure. While your CYA may be high, store testing often gets that one wrong. But in short, the only way to lower CYA is to exchange water. Acid...

As water gets colder, the pH tends to rise a bit. In most cases, as long as your pH is in the recommended ranges of 7.2-7.8, you are fine. In addition, If you use the APP, you will see how water temp and pH really impact CSI. CSI is a good tool as well to understand how the water might...

Since our water temps are getting cooler, I wouldn't lower the pH any more than 7.2. That way when you do increase the FC, it will have a "temporary" effect on raising the pH, but then the pH will later go back to normal once the FC goes down in a few days.

Increasing your FC is just fine. Make sure to go to the and find your current CYA, then increase the FC as much as you wish up to SLAM level. With cooler water temps, it should hold just fine until you get back.

With new plaster, you need to let the pH rise up. A CSI of -0.55 is much too low. Don't try to adjust the TA at this time. Go ahead and close. The pH should rise up into the 8.0 - 8.5 range to help counterbalance the effects of cold water. Open as soon as you can to brush the plaster and...

Same for you as well, although you have one thing to watch a little more closely - pH. With a new pool, your plaster is still curing, so the pH will try to rise quickly which can lead to scale if not maintained So stay vigilant on the pH. If the pH gets dark purple over 8.0-8.2, you'll want...

Sit back and enjoy it. :cheers: Of course we have to scoop-out leaves and stuff after a windy day, but the chlorine level should not drop nearly as fast as it does in the summer, so chemical changes are very slow. Focus on FC and pH every 2-3 days and run a full set of tests every 3-4 weeks...

Correct. Don't let the puck just sit there. You would want to move it around slowly over the course of a few minutes to see if it lifts the stain at all. If it does, you know you're on the right track. If the stain gets worse with a puck, it's something else, so let us know.