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I'm thinking like what Jimmy said. It may have the concrete but as the picture clearly demonstrates it wasn't in the initial pour so the weight of the concrete surrounding the skimmer and not being tied to the wall ,will let it slip or sink independent of the pool structure.

One more thing not mentioned is you will shorten the life of the heater if you let the water drop below approximately 70° . Water temperature needs to be maintained north of the 70° mark otherwise you have condensation issues which is very bad. Start heating only when you're sure it's going to...

One word of advice is to keep the pool from getting algae as it's tough with that high of a CYA.

This is a disaster waiting to happen. I'd get some decals of sort to put on the glass asap. I know of some very gruesome glass accidents you don't want to know about.

I would say the other way around with starting up the SWG. Start it high and dial it down to help the FC land where you want it to be since you're loosing a lot to the daily UV. Point number 2 would be now that the OCLT is done break open the filter and get those cartridges clean so that nothing...

They sell 2 strengths in lowes and I get the 34.5 one. Whichever you use make sure to adjust the poolmath app otherwise you can have a real mess on your hands.

And once you pass OCLT go it one more day on slam and another OCLT to be dead sure.

Rates, Since you have the infloor system I recommend using a submersible pump on the first or second step and run the pump without a hose or even better with a somewhat reduced adapter on the output aiming it to the center of the pool. That will give good aeration. I use the clients pool cover...

Ask him how he tests the water and that may just be the clue, like clueless.

Good move

As it has been said running the heater below 68° is just shortening its life for no benefit at all. When the temps get that low keep the water circulating and you'll be just fine.

Just an idea maybe mount the mini blind on the outside slightly wider then the window to reach the control strings and the like.

Groovee, What is your FC and CC. You may have something going on in the water and you're interpreting it as taste.

The recommended CSI is .6 to -.6, you can play with poolmath in the drop down menu called "effects of adding" to see what to tweak to bring the CSI in line.

You numbers look good except for the SWCG I like PH in the 7.6 range and 70 for the CYA. As Crad said watching the CSI would be be my go to reference.

Shriner, We're trying to help you but your not getting it. For now STOP adding anything into the mix so we can get you going. You haven't answered the question how your testing the water. I also recommend you re-read pool school because nowhere does it say you slam to control PH. We need a fresh...

One of my pools had the SWCG higher than it should have been the last few weeks of the season @ about 10 FC and there wasn't and eye irritation at all.

Not much is going to change once the water temp drops to the 50s. Keep some liquid chlorine in stock. Pool will use very little all winter long. Keep it at target level and probably won't need to add too often.

Pool logs also help us look into your past water chemistry when there's an out of control issue.

Not uncommon by steps but then again it's all in the measurements. Why the bag of salt there. Not sure thats a good thing.

The vinyl doesn't know the difference yes cover or no cover. The main thing is do not disturb the ice once it forms on the pool surface as it can be sharp and cut the vinyl. If you have a robot let it work the pool floor.

This is the way I use my box. Every customer of mine that has the TF-100 has it the same way so when I'm digging into a test kit wherever it may be it's all familiar and just reach for it .

Now that we have his number do you want me to educate him

You have 2 separate issues here. For one you need a motor, secondly the black algae isn't motor related but "pool stored" it surely is. Stop wasting $$$ with the pool guy loading up the water with chemicals that obviously don't work. Read pool school here and do your own testing with a TF-100...

I would check on the gauge on a daily basis so you can catch exactly what was done that caused the failure making easy to repair.

I think closing the pool is a small price to pay for the comfort of knowing you have a problem free pool for the next season. The closing price has to be less then keep it going for the winter dollar wise. If you ain't swimming in it why keep it open.

Ok, back again. @James thanks for your response. I don't buy the bad luck too fast. With the temp at 36° now I went at it. Screen reads sensor failure after I turned the power switch to on and heard the igniter try once and stop. My experience told me a possible contact issue at the board end...

At each of those points there should have been a double strap one from each direction. For some reason they designed it having only one. If you follow sort of the green line and put a anchor, it'll almost accomplish what a double strap would have done just using one point.

That's where the new anchor positions ought to be to make it work right

I believe where the 2 red lines intersect with the cover are in the correct spot sewn. Since each of those 2 straps intersect from two directions they must be pegged to the deck midpoint so it will pull the both directions equally to tether the cover.