New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

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Newdude said:
I had a heat pump for 8.5 years and never knew my flow. I speak RPM and not GPM.

Just like the SWG, start low and increase RPM 100 at a time and when the HP turns on, thats the flow it needs. Your flow will be restricted slightly as thr filter gets dirty so add 100 RPMs and thats the speed you need to run for the heater.


Footage to the equipment matters, and so does pool to pad elevation. The general set up can be the same and also very different.
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That all makes sense. I feel like I have turned my HP on already to just test it and it has turned on. Maybe the pump was at a higher setting when I tested it. I’ll have to play around with it one day soon
 
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PoolStored said:
Our setups are similar and we have the same pump. 2200 should be fine.
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Okay so my PB installed a flow meter on another poop last year and he asked the guy for info at different RPMs what the flow was. This guy has the same exact set up as me, but equipment but his pad is actually 10ft or so farther than mine according to my PB. These readings are from a 18x36 pool (kidney shaped) with the same depth, minus the sun shelf. So probably a couple thousand less gallons than mine. So I will need a little more rpms to achieve the same GPM flow.

So my heater needs at least 30gpm. Take a look at what he sent me. The RPMs from the picture are at 3450, 2400, and 1600.

1600 on his meter even shows over 30gpm. So it gives me a starting point when I go out there and put the pump on to see what runs my heat pump. Then I can add 100-200rpms to compensate for when filter is dirty.

Thoughts?

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When you say EXACT SAME SETUP, are you sure about the pump model, filter model and size, and the same AcquaCal 145?
Have him send a picture of the setup. HPs are fairly restrictive, I'm really surprised you can get 35 GPM at 1600RPM with a superflo...
If you can, that's good for you!

@mas985, what do you think?
 
PoolStored said:
When you say EXACT SAME SETUP, are you sure about the pump model, filter model and size, and the same AcquaCal 145?
Have him send a picture of the setup. HPs are fairly restrictive, I'm really surprised you can get 35 GPM at 1600RPM with a superflo...
If you can, that's good for you!

@mas985, what do you think?
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He said he installed the exact same equipment as mine at this guys house. So I have to take his word for it. He is looking to see if he has a picture of the equipment pad in his photos.

But very similar size pool.
 
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Pas_pool said:
He said he installed the exact same equipment as mine at this guys house. So I have to take his word for it. He is looking to see if he has a picture of the equipment pad in his photos.

But very similar size pool.
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Equipment might be the same, but are the pipe run lengths, pipe size, fitting counts, valves, skimmers, main drains, return eyeball diameters, etc. identical? Everything that touches the water through the plumbing affects the pump operating point and it would be extremely rare for two pools to have identical operating points because the plumbing layouts are almost never the same.
 
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Alright just went out and played around with RPMs. At 1900RPMs the heat pump kicks on. So that must be where I’m getting 30gpm. So would 2000rpms suffice to run 24/7? Not sure what compressor delay means. First time turning the heat pump on.
 

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Pas_pool said:
Alright just went out and played around with RPMs. At 1900RPMs the heat pump kicks on. So that must be where I’m getting 30gpm. So would 2000rpms suffice to run 24/7?
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As I said earlier, the pressure switches are really not accurate, most are set lower than the flow threshold, manufacturers should put in FLOW switches.
Why do you think they recommend the calibration port? So you can ensure the temperature rise TELLS you you have adequate flow.
My recommendation stands.
  • Run at 2200-2400. Heaters are very expensive to replace, a bit of electricity is insurance to not kill the heater because it overheated with low flow.
  • Or, get a flow meter to determine you are getting the flow. Put it after the heater.
  • Or do as the manual recommends, install the port and measure the temperature rise.
 
PoolStored said:
As I said earlier, the pressure switches are really not accurate, most are set lower than the flow threshold, manufacturers should put in FLOW switches.
Why do you think they recommend the calibration port? So you can ensure the temperature rise TELLS you you have adequate flow.
My recommendation stands.
  • Run at 2200-2400. Heaters are very expensive to replace, a bit of electricity is insurance to not kill the heater because it overheated with low flow.
  • Or, get a flow meter to determine you are getting the flow. Put it after the heater.
  • Or do as the manual recommends, install the port and measure the temperature rise.
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Alright sounds good. The extra 300rpms won’t kill me haha. Set it back to 2200 for 24/7
 

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Pas_pool said:
Not sure what compressor delay means
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AquaCal heat pumps may have a delay before the compressor starts, typically 3 to 4 minutes, after the unit is turned on or when calling for heating or cooling. This allows the fan to operate and ensures proper water flow before the compressor engages.
 
PoolStored said:
AquaCal heat pumps may have a delay before the compressor starts, typically 3 to 4 minutes, after the unit is turned on or when calling for heating or cooling. This allows the fan to operate and ensures proper water flow before the compressor engages.
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Makes sense. Thanks.

My test results from tonight. I added 2 lbs. of cya to get that up to 70. TA has been coming down slowly each time I drop the pH to 7.2. We are getting 1.5 inches of rain again tomorrow so I’ll test again Saturday.

Any idea what my chlorine is high now? I lowered my SWG from 40% to 20% on Tuesday. And just lowered it to 10% now after this test. Is it safe to swim in that high?
 

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ajw22 said:
At CYA 70 it is safe to swim up to 28 FC.
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^^^What Allen says. Don't fret it. Just keep it at or above the top of the range for your CYA. If top of target is 10, and runs a little hot for a week and you end up at 12.5, why does it matter? Fiddle if you like, I don't fiddle, but maybe once a week.

And, if you are above range and have a bunch of people over on a hot/sunning day in June/July, your pool can handle it.

Do you have a solar cover, or intend to get one?
 
I've had many parties at 14 to 28 FC. (70 CYA) I snickered to myself everytime I was complimented for not having a gross chlorine pool. There were several mentions at each occurance. Hehe.
 
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PoolStored said:
^^^What Allen says. Don't fret it. Just keep it at or above the top of the range for your CYA. If top of target is 10, and runs a little hot for a week and you end up at 12.5, why does it matter? Fiddle if you like, I don't fiddle, but maybe once a week.

And, if you are above range and have a bunch of people over on a hot/sunning day in June/July, your pool can handle it.

Do you have a solar cover, or intend to get one?
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Ok good. And yes we plan to get one and a reel to cover everything but the sun shelf. But am waiting until the concrete is poured sometime in June. Why?
 
Pas_pool said:
Ok good. And yes we plan to get one and a reel to cover everything but the sun shelf. But am waiting until the concrete is poured sometime in June. Why?
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You are about the same lattitude...so same same. Cover will reduce FC consumption.
This is what I do:
  1. Don't try to micromanage the % output daily. Once you know what it takes (log everything in PM), you will learn what % to run each month.
  2. FC can drift up/down over the week. Since it is safe up to slam level just keep it within range or a bit above.
  3. With the cover on, (May, early June) I run 5-10%. June/July 15%, Aug/Sep 10-15%. You will find your ranges.
  4. When we get in to swim and cover comes off, SWG goes to 50 or 60% depending on the number of people, the sun etc. When we are done, and cover goes on, SWG goes back to baseline (or I might leave it on until 8 or 9). The increase output while swimming offsets the demand. That way I only have to change the output when we are out there, or have to wait to test at the end of the day, adjust output up, then remember to turn if off in the morning.
  5. ^^^Your cell makes 8FC in 24 hours in your pool. Mine makes 13 in my pool. Me turning it 50% on for 6 hours will make 1.5 (additional demand from swimmers). That would me you would need to run closer to 70/80/90 to make up the same. If you try this route, when you open turn it up to 80, then back down, see how that works.
This system just works for me. Might work for you!
 
PoolStored said:
You are about the same lattitude...so same same. Cover will reduce FC consumption.
This is what I do:
  1. Don't try to micromanage the % output daily. Once you know what it takes (log everything in PM), you will learn what % to run each month.
  2. FC can drift up/down over the week. Since it is safe up to slam level just keep it within range or a bit above.
  3. With the cover on, (May, early June) I run 5-10%. June/July 15%, Aug/Sep 10-15%. You will find your ranges.
  4. When we get in to swim and cover comes off, SWG goes to 50 or 60% depending on the number of people, the sun etc. When we are done, and cover goes on, SWG goes back to baseline (or I might leave it on until 8 or 9). The increase output while swimming offsets the demand. That way I only have to change the output when we are out there, or have to wait to test at the end of the day, adjust output up, then remember to turn if off in the morning.
  5. ^^^Your cell makes 8FC in 24 hours in your pool. Mine makes 13 in my pool. Me turning it 50% on for 6 hours will make 1.5 (additional demand from swimmers). That would me you would need to run closer to 70/80/90 to make up the same. If you try this route, when you open turn it up to 80, then back down, see how that works.
This system just works for me. Might work for you!
Click to expand...
Great info. Thanks!!
 

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