Having a pool built and need advice

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mknauss said:
The pool cleaner will not clean steps or ledges. You might need another section of hose. See if it makes it over there.
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The cleaner isn't operational yet. The impeller in the cleaner pump is broken. Warranty guy comes to fix today. But yes I'll definitely test it. I don't know if I can force it to go over there but I do have a camera pointing at the pool and can timelapse through it to check.
 
Earlier camera footage showed the PB walking to the spa side of the pool with the hose to make sure it was long enough. I didn't see them cut it. It's 19ft to that distance. I measured to the tanning ledge wall and it's about 18ft. So I think it should be fine.
 
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Ok cleaner pump repaired and it's working. Couple of questions:
  • What days & times should I run the cleaner?
  • What RPM should I run the cleaner pump at?
  • Where does all the stuff it sucks up go?
 
Sorry to keep bouncing around topics... there's just so much to learn 😂

Cleaner is working great and the RPM is good.

There's two things that annoy me when I'm testing pool water:
  • Having to shake measuring cups to try to get the water to the right fill line (10ml, 25ml, etc).
  • Having to go back and get multiple samples of water
What if I used a big syringe to gather water from below the surface and use that to fill test tubes inside the house? That seems like it would address both points. I'm sure you folks have cooked up some ways to optimize the process and might be able to share some thoughts.
 
I use a 12 oz plastic cup (no glass at pool. Ever) and go elbow deep. Then I double duty the CYA squirter thingie as my water adder-er The small hole in the tip makes it real easy to only add the last few drops when it's close to 10ml or 25ml.
 
voidpointer said:
Sorry to keep bouncing around topics... there's just so much to learn 😂

Cleaner is working great and the RPM is good.

There's two things that annoy me when I'm testing pool water:
  • Having to shake measuring cups to try to get the water to the right fill line (10ml, 25ml, etc).
  • Having to go back and get multiple samples of water
What if I used a big syringe to gather water from below the surface and use that to fill test tubes inside the house? That seems like it would address both points. I'm sure you folks have cooked up some ways to optimize the process and might be able to share some thoughts.
Click to expand...
these work for collecting water once for all your testing
 
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Ya know, I used to use a piece of PVC like a straw to collect test water into a large plastic mug for testing... I've since lost that and realized I had the perfect water-sucker-upper in one of the kid's toys-

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com
I lean over, fill it and put the water in the mug and its simple for me to pour the right amount into the test vials. Easy peasy.
 
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To collect water, I use a 3' piece of 3/4" PVC pipe with a cap on the end. Drill a small hole near the cap on the side of the pipe. Place thumb over the hole, insert the pipe into the pool so the tip is at the desired depth, remove thumb. Water will flow into the pipe. Replace thumb on hole, remove pipe from pool (will retain the water as long as thumb is present over hole). I then let the water escape into a large plastic cup. Take the cup inside and use that for your test water.
 
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tommelton said:
To collect water, I use a 3' piece of 1" PVC pipe with a cap on the end. Drill a small hole near the cap on the side of the pipe. Place thumb over the hole, insert the pipe into the pool so the tip is at the desired depth, remove thumb. Water will flow into the pipe. Replace thumb on hole, remove pipe from pool (will retain the water as long as thumb is present over hole). I then let the water escape into a large plastic cup. Take the cup inside and use that for your test water.
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Oh I like this because it doesn't require getting my arm wet!
 
So, I don't think I'm even going to bother with the quick chlorine test anymore. I just use that part of the kit for pH. I kind of wish there was a pH test in this kit that didn't have the chlorine half, but not a big deal. When CL was at 2, the color looked the same as when it was 6. I just skip straight to the chlorine drop test every time. I'm just not getting the hang of the quick test itself because the yellow color never seems to change.
 
voidpointer said:
I kind of wish there was a pH test in this kit that didn't have the chlorine half, but not a big deal
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I literally had mine on the chop saw when it dawned on me that I'd have no place to hold it if I whacked the FC side. Oh. Wait. You can stay. :ROFLMAO:


voidpointer said:
When CL was at 2, the color looked the same as when it was 6.
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I haven't been able to find it in a long time, but somewhere on the forum is Taylor's stated variances for the comparator block and it was terrible by their own say so. 0-1 was something like +/- .5, 1-2 was +/-1 and they claimed it was simply inaccurate over 3 or 4. Per industry recs that don't account for the CYA/FC relationship, one would never need to test over 4 anyway.

I used mine a bunch over the summer. It goes orange around 9 and if it was orange I went back to whatever else I was doing, because I had 'enough FC'. I didn't care how much so long as it was enough.

This was 10 ish if memory serves.

Screenshot_20230317_155948_Chrome.jpg
 
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I think ajw said a while back to add when it's below 5ppm. And I'm too afraid to let it get as low as 2. So the test doesn't do me any good I think.

Do you personally do the CL drop test every time you test pH?
 
voidpointer said:
Do you personally do the CL drop test every time you test pH?
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I never used the comparator FC test before this year. I got a new kit after 2 years with no pool (expired kit) and was fooling with it because it was a new toy and realized I could use the orange scale for 'enough FC'.
 
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Same here... its a minute more out of my life to just run the FAS-DPD test so that's what I do. With the hot tub I was more interested in "is there chlorine or not?" rather than "How much?", so the compariter block was used then.

Maddie :flower:
 
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