Is this mustard algae?

Have you, or anyone else with access to the pool, been using copper based products ? Clorox “extraBlue” brand? Copper algaecides?
 
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Depending on the color and condition of your pool’s plaster surface, light copper staining can be hard to notice. Iron tends to make darker, more noticeable stains. Then, when you add AA to the water, the iron is lifted away from the surface but the copper stains are made much, much darker. So what you likely had was a mixed metal scaling/staining problem and the AA only got rid of half the problem.

You need to track down why/how the copper got into your pool. It could be the heaters copper heat exchanging eroded over time from poor chemical maintenance and/or the tabs that were being put in that tablet feeder had copper in them. A lot of retail trichlor tablets sold nowadays have copper added to them in small amounts to act as an algaecide. Clorox “extraBlue” is only one such product, many others add it too. If you don’t scrutinize the chemical ingredient list, it’s easy to overlook. Tabs are especially bad with a heater as the they create an acidic stew of highly chlorinated low pH water that sits inside the feeder. The check valve before it is supposed to “protect”’the heater from back flowing chemicals but the seals on those can easily fail and not do a 100% job of keeping the chemicals out.
 
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The plaster is new as of January

I guess copper in the heater, but that's why I had the water tested and they said .2 ppm
No tabs have been used
Some dichlor

When I tested with AA it didn't react badly at all. I put it in a sock and rubbed it on some of the stains I was hoping to remove

I am so upset
I've tried so hard to do it all right

If I drain it can it be acid washed when it's not very old plaster?

The stains are getting lighter. How long can I recirculate with AA safely?

I have Jack's Magic Blue stuff
Should I even bother with that?
 

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See how it looks tomorrow.

If it is still bad, I would probably do a sulfamic acid treatment followed by a drain and refill (If safe) or a significant continuous dilution.

Did you have water table issues while it was drained for the new plaster?

Note: Copper is a difficult stain to deal with and even sulfamic might not work and it might even make it worse.
 
I don't know what you mean by water table issues
Ground water levels.
I can leave it circulating over night safely?
It is what it is.

Circulating or not circulating won't make much difference.
I also do not have black or green staining. Some blue
Copper is usually blue to turquoise and rarely green.

Black is a different oxidation state of copper and a different copper compound.
 
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UPDATE
the AA stains are gone (so thankful!!)!!!!

The yellowish-dirty stains are much much lighter, gone in some places. It didn't get rid of the blue-ish stains.

I am guessing a sequestrant will just be wasted if there are metals coming from the heater?
(The heater is being replaced, I am sure how soon-supposedly it's on backorder)
 
UPDATE
the AA stains are gone (so thankful!!)!!!!

The yellowish-dirty stains are much much lighter, gone in some places. It didn't get rid of the blue-ish stains.

I am guessing a sequestrant will just be wasted if there are metals coming from the heater?
(The heater is being replaced, I am sure how soon-supposedly it's on backorder)

You should either use the appropriate sequestering agent and use it regularly until the new heater arrives OR completely dump the water and refill the pool (if it’s safe to do so without floating the pool). If you do not use a sequestering agent then, as soon as you raise the FC, the stains will return. AA gets broken down by chlorine and the metal ions you just lifted off the plaster need to be held in solution or they will scale back out again.
 
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