Filter plumbing leaking

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I

IraGreenspan

Member
Feb 5, 2021
10
Nc
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Truclear / Ei
Hi all, it appears I have my plumbing leaking in 2 places.

1) The filter drain valve was leaking. It was a ball valve. I had a pool company come out and they replaced it with a Jandy valve (attaching a pic). However it is now leaking worse than before. I am trying to work with them but they don't want to come back to fix it. I am wondering if this is something I can correct myself as I know you can replair these valves.

2) There is a slight leak from the pump to the filter. It is a slow drip. I was reviewing the installation manual and was wondering if the O-rings could be bad or should it all be replaced.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Drain area: I can't zoom in enough to see exactly where the leak is. :crazy: Since it has leaked with 2 different valves, is it before or after the valve connection? Can you describe please?

Filter: There is probably an O-ring inside that adapter nut fitting that screws onto the filter. O-rings can wear over time and lose their sealing ability. You could unscrew that nut fitting and take a look at the O-ring. If you rub the O-ring and your finger gets black on it, it's probably time to replace it. You might try wiping it and adding some fresh pool lube on the O-ring to see if that helps.
 
Thanks for responding so quickly.

Regarding the drain area: The leak for the drain appears after the valve. It was hard to tell, I had to go out and re-confirm. Is this a good valve to use as a drain? Was wondering if the pressure in the filter can be causing this. The pressure is 25 btw. Is it as simple are replacing the diverter?

Regarding the filter: I am unsure if it is leading from point A or point B in the picture attached. Appears to be point A as I can see where the water is hitting. You are saying to unscrew the nut attached to the filter and check that?

Thanks.
 

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IraGreenspan said:
Is this a good valve to use as a drain?
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It's a bit overkill perhaps, but those Jandy valves have a very good reputation for reliability. If the leak is after the valve where the backwash hose is attached, then you might just need to readdress that clamped area. If you see water drippling from the valve itself, like the handle stem or around the valve lid, then the O-rings could be worn.

With the drain closed, your filter pressure might be a separate issue. An unjustified increase in filter pressure is sometime early signs of algae and the flter media is overwhelmed. Next time you clean/backwash your filter, take note of the clean PSI reading and monitor. If it climbs quickly let us know.

As for the filter leak area, area B would be the nut O-ring. Area A could be a tiny leak from the threads where the adapter is screwed into the filter itself. Both are relatively easy DIY things to check. If you decide to unscrew the nut and then the adapter, you can try adding some Teflon plumbing paste or Teflon tape to the threads of the adapter. Not too much tape and don't screw in the adapter too tightly as you don't want to risk cracking the filter housing itself.
 
Ok thank you. I apologize but have a couple of additional questions.

Regarding the drain, the pressure is normal has always been that level. Unfortunately, I did not understand your comment. With the valve closed no water should be coming through there and yet it is. Maybe I explained it incorrectly. No water should even reach the blue hose.

Thanks regarding the other leak, let me see if I can figure out where it is leaking from.

Thanks.
 
IraGreenspan said:
No water should even reach the blue hose.
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Correct. With the valve closed as shown in the pic, no water should go out. If it is, perhaps the divert paddle inside is worn and needs to be replaced. It's a fairly easy DIY by just removing the 8 screws on top and replacing the diverter.
 
The diverter should be 180 from where it is.

The force of the water is pushing the diverter seal open.

At 180 degrees, the diverter will be pushed closed.

It's also possible that the plumbers got glue in the valve where the seal is and that will prevent a good seal.
 
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Ok thanks. I did turn it and definitely leaking less. Still a slight leak though.

I did order a new diverter and will try that. I hope it is not the glue but would not be surprised as these guys were sloppy.

I am a little hesitant on the other leak as it has been below freezing. I don’t want to crack anything. So may try to find another pool guy. I don’t want to cause a bigger problem.

Thanks for all your help.
 
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If you get a hard freeze, that part can potentially freeze and crack because the water is not moving.

Be ready with a plan for freezing weather.

Are you staying open all year?
 

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JamesW said:
If you get a hard freeze, that part can potentially freeze and crack because the water is not moving.

Be ready with a plan for freezing weather.

Are you staying open all year?
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Yes I live in NC, so usually not that bad. Usually a few weeks of really cold weather. So yes leave the pool open.
JamesW said:
If you get a hard freeze, that part can potentially freeze and crack because the water is not moving.

Be ready with a plan for freezing weather.

Are you staying open all year?
Click to expand...
I do appreciate all your help. Do you have recommendations for pool companies who service pools in Waxhaw NC? Not chemicals as I can do that but if there is an issue with equipment and such.

Thanks.
 
May I ask another question. It has been very cold and windy today. With wind chill about 20. When the filter turned on I noticed a lot of leaves in the skimmer and the pump was struggling, sure to the heavy winds. I cleaned that out. However I do notice the filter pressure went up 1 or 2 points. Could that be due to the cold or just dirt on the filters. I ask as it has been pretty consistent until today. And way to cold to be cleaning filters 😊

The pressure is normally 35 but now about 37.

Thanks.
 
Texas Splash said:
There is probably an O-ring inside that adapter nut fitting that screws onto the filter. O-rings can wear over time and lose their sealing ability. You could unscrew that nut fitting and take a look at the O-ring. If you rub the O-ring and your finger gets black on it, it's probably time to replace it.
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I have leaks also where the o-rings failed that test.
Given an o-ring is pennies on the commodity market but dozens of dollars in the pool stores, do you guys have a favorite non-pool distributor you buy yours from?
I'm talking the big ones, some are only a foot or so in diameter but others (like the filter o-ring) are a few feet across.
 
IraGreenspan said:
Hi all, it appears I have my plumbing leaking in 2 places.

1) The filter drain valve was leaking. It was a ball valve. I had a pool company come out and they replaced it with a Jandy valve (attaching a pic). However it is now leaking worse than before. I am trying to work with them but they don't want to come back to fix it. I am wondering if this is something I can correct myself as I know you can replair these valves.

2) There is a slight leak from the pump to the filter. It is a slow drip. I was reviewing the installation manual and was wondering if the O-rings could be bad or should it all be replaced.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't try to tighten it, like I did. I cracked the union, and now have to replace it along with the plumbing that is glued to it.
 
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