Quick Chem Correction

Zalligan

Active member
Sep 6, 2022
44
Denton, TX
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello All,

New to the forum and new pool owner - have learned a tremendous amount of information in a short amount of time.

Hopefully quick question -

About a month ago we "closed" the pool here in North Texas. My closing steps (based on recommendation from previous owner) were to balance the chemicals and when the salt cell shows the red "cold water" light, to remove the SWG and put in a dummy pipe, and cover the pool with the cover they left behind (thick mesh with tons of anchors around pool deck). After that, add ~1/2 gal liquid chlorine once or twice a month and run pump periodically to distribute chemicals/filter water.

Long story short, the cold snap didn't last, pool warmed back up, turned green (under the cover). I shocked the pool with liquid chlorine and reinstalled the SWG to clear things up until it gets cold enough once and for all, to keep the cell turned off.

Fast forward to last week and friends decided they want to host a party at our house and use the hot tub to which I said no problem.

I do not have a test kit yet - we bought the house in August and I just left the settings as the previous owner had set up, with weekly runs to a local mom & pop pool store for a water test, and everything remained fine. Planning to buy one going into the spring. The test strips I have seem relatively accurate when compared with pool store figures, which I know can be questionable, but we're working with what we've got, and their business is based on word of mouth so I trust them a bit more than I would a big chain.

Just got back from the pool store with test results and the big question is, with my current CYA:FC ratio - is this safe to get in, and if not, is this possible to correct in ~48 hours? Water is crystal clear at this point.

FC: 6.47
TC: 8.86
CC: 2.39
pH: 7.6
TA: 114
CH: 461
CYA: 5

Mitigating steps taken since getting these results
- Dropped IC output to 35%/1%
- Added 3 lbs CYA (what I had on hand)

Added the CYA in hopes that it will tie up some of the chlorine and move my CYA:FC ratio in the right direction. I may also peel back a part of the cover tomorrow to get some sunlight on the water to hopefully burn things off.

Appreciate ya'lls input.
 
I was going to suggest a bit more CYA for the FC buffering effect, so all good from what I see.

An option is to chlorinate with dichlor for a little while, then bleach. I wouldn't bother with the SWCG now that you're closed down for winter.

I'm assuming you get the CYA gradually dissolved in the cold water in the swimming pool, and you then recirculate that water back to the spa.

You could also just heat the spa and do your chemistry on the spa water (assuming plumbing is set up so you can fully isolate the pool water. In that case, you could follow the "dichlor, then bleach" spa method.

Re: test kit, no reason to delay. You'l be way more confident of your numbers within a week or two.

Cheers and happy to hear you're getting good information here at troublefreepool.
 
Appreciate the sanity check - can definitely put it in spa-only mode and probably should’ve gone that route with my cya rather than adding it back to the pool skimmers - maybe some will be left in the morning and I can just focus on the ~650 gallons

Given the levels and how slowly the FC is dropping with the cover on, I’ve also thought about just turning off the swg and hoping the drift down over 2 days puts it in good range.

Re:test kit, the only reason I haven’t is I love heard there’s a shelf life on the reagents and if k won’t be using it until open sometime in April or May, I didn’t want them sitting on a shelf for 6 months collecting dust. Am I thinking about this wrong?
 
Re:test kit, the only reason I haven’t is I love heard there’s a shelf life on the reagents and if k won’t be using it until open sometime in April or May, I didn’t want them sitting on a shelf for 6 months collecting dust. Am I thinking about this wrong?
Yes. Reagents will last for at least 2 years if you keep them indoors in room or cooler temps, out of the sun. I would also get it now so you can test your water weekly during the winter and keep your FC up...so you avoid the green stuff.

Great read on test kits. Link-->Test Kits Compared
 
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Yes. Reagents will last for at least 2 years if you keep them indoors in room or cooler temps, out of the sun. I would also get it now so you can test your water weekly during the winter and keep your FC up...so you avoid the green stuff.

Great read on test kits. Link-->Test Kits Compared
Oh great! I was worried it would only be ~12 months so I’d be throwing out reagents mid-season. Winter is probably the best time for me to learn anyway - low risk with the pool closed.
 
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Accurate testing cannot be emphasized enough. We see scenarios like yours all the time, and it's not until disater striles that a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit is aquired. At that point owners almost always reply, "Wow, I had no idea how off numbers were." 100% ownership control with no guess work is key. You got this. Welcome to TFP! :wave:

full
 
Appreciate the warm welcome ya'll!

Assuming my testing numbers are correct, should i be concerned about people using the hot tub with the FC/CYA numbers? Since reagents last longer than i expected i'll be picking up the TF-Pro, but that won't help me for this weekend.
 
Assuming my testing numbers are correct,
That really is the wild card. Hard to tell. What you might consider is adding about 2-3 ppm of chlorine just before the spa activities since the additional bather load will certainly deplete some FC. You might also start to become familiar with the PoolMath APP and checkout the "Effects of Adding" section once you've populated all of your poll info.
 
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