Wiring on new sub panel problems

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The breakers do look like they not new, but sometimes that is what they look like. Also they don't all look like there are the same mfg. The single pole ones are different and the two 20A double pole are on top are different. Double check they the make and model of the breaker is approved for that panel. Just because if fits does not mean it's approved. It can get a little confusing figuring this out since manufactures have acquired one another. Also make sure the wire is THWN and not THHN.
 
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Bill1974 said:
Not to open a bigger can of worms, but also check the connections at your main panel and also check to see if the main panel is possibly over loaded. The calculated load on the main panel should be checked. As other have stated, there are multiple issues with the connections in the sub panel and with wire connections in the junction box. Unless everything that comes off the breakers in the subpanel is protected with a gfci's the breaker should be gfci. I generally prefer the breaker to be the gfci that using a receptacle. It might cost a little more be they are easier to trouble shoot and easier to replace a breaker and less likely to be wired wrong too.
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Appreciate the thoughts, but house is less than 2 years old and I had a top notch builder and electrician for the build. I paid extra to have them run the initial sub panel for the pool. It is off a 200 amp service, so not overloaded. Just disappointing to go from good electricians to a hack.
 
I'm just floored that a licensed contractor did this, and that any inspector signed off on it.
I mean, they couldn't even get the LiquidTight straight. Everything about the job screams sloppy.

Have you actually SEEN the signoff ? Around here, they give you a little green sticker - usually stuck on or near the work itself - like this :

Screenshot 2022-10-04 093051.jpg
 
Bill1974 said:
The breakers do look like they not new, but sometimes that is what they look like. Also they don't all look like there are the same mfg. The single pole ones are different and the two 20A double pole are on top are different. Double check they the make and model of the breaker is approved for that panel. Just because if fits does not mean it's approved. It can get a little confusing figuring this out since manufactures have acquired one another. Also make sure the wire is THWN and not THHN.
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You are correct. There are actually 4 brands of breakers in the box. It's and Eaton box.
 
Did the person who did the work have a Master Electrician license?

If yes, did you verify their individual license with the state database?

In my opinion, it’s just not believable that a qualified electrician did this work.

Maybe the business is licensed, but I highly doubt that the person who actually showed up and did this work had any sort of valid license.
 
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JamesW said:
Did the person who did the work have a Master Electrician license?

If yes, did you verify their individual license with the state database?

In my opinion, it’s just not believable that a qualified electrician did this work.

Maybe the business is licensed, but I highly doubt that the person who actually showed up and did this work had any sort of valid license.
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No, I did not verify his license because he was recommended by the pool installer. I should have known better because the installer has not done well in the whole process.

At any rate, I cleaned everything up. GFCI breakers are hard to find around my area so ordering them for the pumps and heater. Otherwise I think it looks a lot better now. What does everyone think?:
new sub panel.jpg
 
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Coz said:
Had a couple busy days so took me longer to post these pics than planned.

Here is the junction box where the neutral from the main box is taped:
View attachment 456425

Here is the sub panel and a closer picture of the 120v neutrals on with the grounds.
View attachment 456428
View attachment 456429
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Yikes. Never seen this many code violations in one and the same panelboard.

No insulation bushings, no Gnd / N separation, neutral thinner than phase, different breakers, no AFCI, no GFCI.

GFCI breakers hard to get? Amazon is flush with Eaton/Cutler Hammer GFI breakers for same week delivery.

Using one manufacturers circuit breaker in another manufacturer's panelboard violates NEC 110.3(B) and violates the product listing. NEC 110.3(B) and The Intermixing of Circuit breakers.
 
Coz said:
No, I did not verify his license because he was recommended by the pool installer. I should have known better because the installer has not done well in the whole process.

At any rate, I cleaned everything up. GFCI breakers are hard to find around my area so ordering them for the pumps and heater. Otherwise I think it looks a lot better now. What does everyone think?:
View attachment 456709
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No longer completely suicidal. Much better. Still a lot of violations though, see posts from yesterday.
 
Olle said:
No longer completely suicidal. Much better. Still a lot of violations though, see posts from yesterday.
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Yeah, I know. Was trying to get it to a safer point while making a decision on scrapping everything and starting over with a Pentair Intellicenter.
 
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Coz said:
Otherwise I think it looks a lot better now. What does everyone think?:
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I've seen worse...at least now it's functional !! I'm not a fan of 'taping' to indicate phases etc, but given the price of copper these days, I'm not sure I'd pull the white cable out to replace it either ;)
I also invested $30 in a little Dymo-type labeler - makes things look way more 'professional' when you're done - and of course my grandson promptly stole it and labelled everything ;)

At least yours has somewhat appropriate conductors etc. When we bought this house, I was "amused" to see the pool pump wired single-phase, via a regular light switch in a metal box screwed to the underside of the deck (with drywall screws..). Only the finest 14awg romex was used...no conduit, no clamps, no nothing. I'm sure that because it was under the deck, they figured that wasn't a 'wet location'. So many issues its not even worth thinking about.
 
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