Jandy JXI400N - Trouble Air

Honestly, is a PRV really needed? Seems kind of dumb to me ... I suppose if Code requires it then you have to have one but it would have to be a seriously jacked-up heater to need one of those ...
 
If the heater can be totally isolated with valves, then it can explode if it runs with no flow.

If the heater cannot be totally isolated, then it should never be able to get to an unsafe pressure.
 
This can be completely isolated.

This is one reason to use a check valve at the outlet instead of a regular valve.

With a check valve at the outlet, pressure can get out but not in.

Also, the tab feeder will destroy the heat exchanger if the pump is off while there are tabs in the feeder.

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If the heater can be totally isolated with valves, then it can explode if it runs with no flow.

I think this falls under the "seriously jacked up" provision as it would require the failure and/or defeat of several different safety interlocks ... but, then again, saving people from the fate of Darwin's Law seems to be what everyone wants ...
 
It's a psv recommended to install by Jandy. Available from the big box stores. Mine came with a punch out for it and an option to install.
I think in my installation it does nothing at all. No pressure would ever build since I don't have a valve between the heater and the water to shut all flow. Jandy recommends it in those scenarios.

My inclination is to plug the hole.
 
PRV's are a 50/50 in the field. And when they are used, it is connected with galvanized pipe always. Out of the PRV people do use PVC. These PRV's usually rust out before they are ever put into play.
 

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Get a brass plug.

Also acceptable: gold, silver, platinum, titanium, tungsten, ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, iridium, 316 stainless steel, nickel, vanadium and chromium.

Do NOT use: Mercury, calcium, lithium, potassium, sodium, magnesium or zinc,

I would use a Bismuth-Indium casting alloy that melts at 117F ... that way if the header gets too hot, the plug can melt away safely!

 
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I would use a Bismuth-Indium casting alloy that melts at 117F ... that way if the header gets too hot, the plug can melt away safely!

A simple but effective temperature relief. Clever. (y)

If you have any Pepto Bismol, you can get the bismuth out if you want to make your own alloy.


Also, note that while it might work in Maryland, it would not work in Arizona where it rarely gets below 117 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anything below 100 degrees in Arizona triggers a freeze warning.
 
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Just a little epilogue here. I fired up the heater for its first long-term run this morning for this afternoon swimming. Started at 86 degrees at around 8am and cranked it to 92 which it got to around noon. Ambient temps were 70s (overcast) and low 80s (84 now). Seems to be working fantastically!

I still need to install the Jandy bypass kit.
 
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