Help me keep my pool clear!

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1) You need chlorine throughout the day, so when you add it isn't really important. Just try to be consistent of when you add, so that you don't go for example a whole day + a half a day by adding in morning one day and evening the next (unless you know the FC can handle it - personally I add every two days because my FC doesn't drop enough over the two days for that to be needed).

2) You can estimate the LC. You're talking about a small amount in a giant pool, and the FC test has its own margin of error of +/- 0.5ppm or so (at the 10ml sample). Rounding to the nearest half gallon is perfectly acceptable.
 
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Zimdogg,

I have SWG so don’t have to measure out liquids very often. MA to manage pH and liquid chlorine early spring and fall when water temps don’t support FC generation via the SWG.

What I did is get a small inexpensive electronic scale with stainless steel bowel and a set of plastic measuring cups. Between those, I’ve been able to measure liquids and dry chems. Needless to say found them all on Amazon.

As you’ve been learning keys are get your FC and CYA managed at the recommended levels, then focus on pH, and so on.

FC is what keeps the water sanitized, CYA will help decrease loss durning these hots summer days.

Your doing great, keep at it, you’ll get there, we’ve all been in your spot!

Be Good!
 
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So now what? Since I plan to keep FC at higher levels for the time being, what's my best bet to get everything else within spec? I'll get a full test panel done again tonight so I can see where some of the other numbers are, but whenever I've tested pH lately I'm right at 7.6. There were some other numbers that were off though, and I'd like to get balanced out. Is my best bet just putting the numbers into Pool Math and following instructions for each out of spec data point?
 
zimdogg said:
So now what? Since I plan to keep FC at higher levels for the time being, what's my best bet to get everything else within spec? I'll get a full test panel done again tonight so I can see where some of the other numbers are, but whenever I've tested pH lately I'm right at 7.6. There were some other numbers that were off though, and I'd like to get balanced out. Is my best bet just putting the numbers into Pool Math and following instructions for each out of spec data point?
Click to expand...
Post the test numbers, and the gurus here will steer you right, but sounds like you're doing good with the OCLT

Pool School : Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If your FC level remained the same, or went down by 1.0 or less, the water is clean. There isn’t any living algae or other organic contamination in the pool.
Click to expand...

My pool is vinyl, so I don't have to worry (so much) about Calcium and PH., but for what it's worth, I generally lose about 2-3 PPM FC per day as the pool is in direct sunlight pretty much 8am through 7pm. Based on pool-math, that is about 1/2 gallon of 12.5% bleach in my 25k-gal pool every day. I typically I do a whole gallon every other day because it's easier, and I tend to keep it just a little higher than the minimum suggested by the app. I generally test for FC/CC just before I add, and then I run a full set of tests at the weekend to make sure nothing significantly changed with CH/TA/CYA/PH etc.
 
*Keep fc @ target 🎯 levels for your cya so u never broach minimum FC/CYA Levels - this is PARAMOUNT
* maintain ph in the 7’s (the ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm) so this will take some planning w/ a high cya
* ta will fall as u add acid to control ph
Anywhere 50 & above is fine.
* ch - you have a plaster pool so you need to be mindful of csi
Here’s some info on that 👇
www.troublefreepool.com

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
*cya - work on getting that down to a manageable level -
If u aren’t wanting to exchange a large amount of water
take advantage of rains 🌧 & drain a little before hand.
Let the recommended levels be your guide- but there’s no exact perfect #’s to strive for just boundaries to remain within.
www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Mdragger88 said:
*Keep fc @ target 🎯 levels for your cya so u never broach minimum FC/CYA Levels - this is PARAMOUNT
* maintain ph in the 7’s (the ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm) so this will take some planning w/ a high cya
* ta will fall as u add acid to control ph
Anywhere 50 & above is fine.
* ch - you have a plaster pool so you need to be mindful of csi
Here’s some info on that 👇
www.troublefreepool.com

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
*cya - work on getting that down to a manageable level -
If u aren’t wanting to exchange a large amount of water
take advantage of rains 🌧 & drain a little before hand.
Let the recommended levels be your guide- but there’s no exact perfect #’s to strive for just boundaries to remain within.
www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for this. I have my pool math app set to monitor CSI, and it claims I'm within correct range based on what I know so far.

I did have a few other questions that have come up through my experiences:
1) After adding liquid chlorine, how long should I wait before I test again to confirm my new levels? Is an hour with the pump on enough time to have the chlorine disperse enough? Less time, more time? I add chlorine slowly right in the path of a return, so I can watch it dissipating, just didn't know how long it takes to be fully saturated in the water.
2) When cleaning out my skimmer basket, should I do this with the pump on or off? I've done it both ways. Downside to off is that an floating debris in the skimmer basket area has a tendency to float back out into the pool while I'm emptying the basket. If I leave the pump on, I assume some of that debris gets sucked towards the pump and ends up in my pump basket. What's the best way to do this?

My pool is in direct sunlight all day long, so I seem to be losing a good amount of Chlorine through the day. I'm glad I was able to confirm there doesn't seem to be algae based on the overnight test, but I don't have a clue how much I'm actually losing since I'm adding chlorine in the morning (and not testing again aftewards) then only have my test to go by the next day prior to adding chlorine again. This is why I'm asking question #1. I'd like to have a baseline to see how much a hot sunny day is extracting from the pool.
 
1) 30 minutes should be sufficient
2) up to u - some folks carry a little bucket to dump the contents of the basket into quickly or have xtra skimmer baskets so they can just swap quickly
The weir door should prevent debris from returning to the pool when the pump is off if it is operating correctly.
3) the average algae free residential pool loses roughly 2-4 ppm of fc/day give or take a ppm.
- on the low side of loss in the cooler/shoulder seasons
- on the high side of loss in the hotter summer/sunnier season
This can also increase with bather load or debris.
I still can’t see your logs so not sure of your current numbers.
But You can basically do the opposite of the oclt to get an idea of loss per day for this time of year.
Test & dose 1st thing in the morning, wait 30 min, test again, then test in the evening when the sun is off the pool.
 
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Not sure why my logs don't link. Here's my initial numbers again except my FC was at 7.5 this morning and pH is now at 7.6. CSI was at -.11 I believe last I checked as pool temp has increased to 85*
 

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Zim,
Fc below 9ppm minimum w/ that cya level is begging for algae or worse to proliferate.
Clear doesn’t 🟰 sanitary
Ear infections, pinkeye, rashes - not cool.
A water exchange would be ideal so u can maintain a lower target fc level. As I mentioned earlier the ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm. This means to check/maintain ph you must fall below target of 13.8ppm & near the minimum of 9ppm. This is a hard to maintain routine without accidentally going to low. Minimum is the no zone- it is not a goal.

... "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
.... "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
.... "Yel/Mstrd Min" is 15% of the CYA level
.... "Shock FC" is 40% of the CYA level
.... "Yel/MstrdShock" is 60% of the CYA level

Draining - Further Reading

www.google.com www.google.com
 
Seems I need to get a submersible pump and do this the right way. I know IceShadow linked to a method to keep levels normal instead of a drain/refill.

Any suggestions on a cost effect submersible pump? Do these connect to a garden hose or do I need some other equipment to attach to it for draining purposes.

Edit - Looks like the Draining article on this site covers everything. I'll read first before asking more previously answered questions :)
 
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zimdogg said:
Seems I need to get a submersible pump and do this the right way. I know IceShadow linked to a method to keep levels normal instead of a drain/refill.

Any suggestions on a cost effect submersible pump? Do these connect to a garden hose or do I need some other equipment to attach to it for draining purposes.

Edit - Looks like the Draining article on this site covers everything. I'll read first before asking more previously answered questions :)
Click to expand...
It's ok, we don't mind answering anyhow.

When I got a submersible pump it used a larger diameter hose than a standard garden hose, so I got a larger hose that was long enough to get to my driveway (where the water could run down it into the street and the storm sewer, where my municipality wants pool water to go).
 
zimdogg said:
I'm not sure what you mean by a pump for my cover. I don't have a cover for the summer, just my mesh winter cover.
Click to expand...
Some people use solid winter covers. When they do, they usually have a pump on the cover to remove excess water.
 
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Update -

I now own a submersible pump and plan to start swapping some water here this week. My intention is to put the hose at the very bottom, and put the pump on one of our ledges that is much shallower and on the other side of the pool, in hopes of drawing the warmer water out first and keeping the new, cool, water on the bottom.

I'll measure GPM and calculate GPH on the inflow and outflow hoses, and do my best to match both of them for even flow, then determine the time it should take to flip around 6-8k gallons or more. I measured CYA again, and it may be even higher than I thought before (around 160-180). Might just end up completely turning the water over in the pool at this point.

One piece that isn't clear to me throughout this whole process is monitoring and maintaining the chemistry of the pool. Is there any reason to continue adding chemicals through this process, or do I just swap the water and start fresh? I'm not pulling well water, I'm using city water.

What chemicals should I have on hand? I currently have Liquid chlorine (12.5%), Muriatic Acid, Baking Soda, and some ph Up product. Might be a couple of other things as well. Am I going to need to SLAM after the new water is in the pool, or just test and adjust based on pool math and my new numbers once the swap is complete? Little confused about all of that.
 
I would aim to keep proper fc in the water- the other parameters don’t need to be maintained until the exchange is complete.
When the exchange is done - if u pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, the water is crystal clear, & u have cc’s of .5 or less there’s no need to do the SLAM Process.
You would just maintain recommended levels
www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
With fc being paramount- aim for the high target 🎯 on the FC/CYA Levels & replenish before falling to minimum 😊
Your current arsenal of supplies is adequate.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
I would aim to keep proper fc in the water- the other parameters don’t need to be maintained until the exchange is complete.
When the exchange is done - if u pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, the water is crystal clear, & u have cc’s of .5 or less there’s no need to do the SLAM Process.
You would just maintain recommended levels
www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
With fc being paramount- aim for the high target 🎯 on the FC/CYA Levels & replenish before falling to minimum 😊
Your current arsenal of supplies is adequate.
Click to expand...
Perfect, thank you. I have that "Ideal Levels" sheet printed out and stored in the lid of my Taylor test kit :)
 
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Mdragger88 said:
I would aim to keep proper fc in the water- the other parameters don’t need to be maintained until the exchange is complete.
When the exchange is done - if u pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, the water is crystal clear, & u have cc’s of .5 or less there’s no need to do the SLAM Process.
You would just maintain recommended levels
www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
With fc being paramount- aim for the high target 🎯 on the FC/CYA Levels & replenish before falling to minimum 😊
Your current arsenal of supplies is adequate.
Click to expand...
Now that I think about it, I might need some more CYA test reagent. That one goes quick when using 7ml at a time.

How often should I check FC and CYA levels throughout the exchange? If I'm moving 6 GPH, it'll take me 33 hours to exchange 12k gallons, so this will be an overnight process. Is checking in the mornings and evenings adequate, or should I be checking this every couple of hours?
 

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