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The TF-100 has an XL option which is awsome for 1st timers and those with green pools as they will be testing FC alot more at first.

Whichever kit you go with, a smart stir is the best $44 you can spend on your pool.

The TFpro (sometimes called TF100pro) includes the smart stir and a fancy case.
 
Agree. I got the smart stir. You will never realize how annoying it is to swirl with one hand while dropping with the other, until you get a smart star. :)
 
OK - gonna get the larger quantity version on order - one concern, though, on the large quantity - is there a shelf life issue?

Today's test - the 15th drop ALMOST changed color, and the 16th did instantly - so, would one, after having done this many times and having a baseline for speed of change, be able to judge the ppm is not 3000, and certainly is 3200 so maybe, between? 3100 ppm ... or, back to the +/- 200 ppm and not sweat it :)
 
As long as the SWG does not alarm due to too low or high of salt, it is fine.

The test kit is really only necessary to determine if/when a cell is failing. Otherwise, the SWG unit will tell you when the salt is too low or too high. When the test kit starts reading about 400 ppm higher than the SWG unit, then the cell is either dirty or failing.
 
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OK, so first test series - just followed the instructions on the enclosed sheet from tft.

Using the Comparator Block
TC >5 (same color as darkest?)
pH 8.2 (HIGH)

Individual Tests
FC/Chlorine Drop 4.5 (HIGH?)
CC 0 (but right on the edge ... maybe 1/2 drop to absolutely clear)
CH 250 (in lower range?)
TA 90 (in lower range?)
CYA 23-25 (highly subjective but slow to lower range?)
 
Always round CYA up to the next tens, so 30. With an SWG, raise that to 60-80. It'll give your chlorine more protection from the sun and make your SWG have to work less.

We normally target FC for 7.5-10% of CYA. So your 4.5 for CYA of 30 is slightly high (15%), but still well within the "safe to swim" range. Anything up to 40% of CYA is safe to swim. I prefer to keep my FC at 10% or above, just for a safety margin.

So raise CYA to 70, FC to 7 and never let it fall below 5 and you'll be "Trouble Free".
 
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OK - three things to change initially, then? (BTW - should I shift to the Testing and Balancing Your Water forum?)

pH - I have used Muriatic Acid previously - PoolMath app calls for about 2 cups (of 29%)to decrease the pH to the target of 7.6. Hmmm ... two types at local big box: the industrial liquid version which only lists 10-30% (company secret), or the pool specific which comes in 2 gallon packs - waaaay too much to have hanging around. What do most folks do?
BTW - per pool math, decreasing pH should also decrease TA a bit?

CYA - PoolMath calls for a bit less than 5 pounds of dry for my pool size, or 1 1/2 gallons liquid. Have never added CYA stabilizer/increaser. What is the best way to do this? This is a LOT of stabilizer (was surprised how expensive!). Best way to source? Here's product from Walmart.

1655323472014.png

FC - is it OK to adjust with liquid chlorine? This would seem better than extra time on the SWCG?

Maybe address each category a bit at a time - retesting in a couple of days after first input? I need practice with the chemistry set, anyway.
 
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To adjust pH, I buy whatever muriatic acid they have in the paint department of whichever hardware store I happen to stop in. I just dump in an entire gallon each time. All you need to do is get in the range of 7.2 - 7.8.

CYA - what you pictured there is what I use. Thankfully it's only a one-time addition each season. I bring it to 70-80 when I open and then forget about it the rest of the year. Put it into a sock and suspend that in front of your return. It'll take a couple of days to dissolve but you can speed the process by squeezing it periodically.

It is perfectly fine to use liquid chlorine to raise your FC. In fact that's the preferred method rather than increasing runtime or percentage on your SWG.
 

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stephenson said:
should I shift to the Testing and Balancing Your Water forum?)
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Up to you. It's great for continuity to keep it here so anyone considering switching will see the before / during / after. All your efforts will help others in the future.
stephenson said:
only lists 10-30% (company secret),
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If it says green, eco, or low fumes, it's half strength. IMO they wanted to sell twice as much from the same stash. The average person sees the friendly version and can't easily tell its the same thing for the same price, but weaker.

Paint stores and paint aisles have it year round if the pool aisle is empty.
stephenson said:
Have never added CYA stabilizer/increaser
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Hang in a sock(s) in front of a return, away from the wall. Carrot on a stick like. Return later to squish it out. Any bag is fine so long as the ingredients say 100% cyanuric acid. Prices/supplies vary by the minute.
stephenson said:
is it OK to adjust with liquid chlorine? This would seem better than extra time on the SWCG?
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Small adjustments can be made by SWG and be ok tomorrow. Now boosts (like being anywhere near minimum) require NOW doses of liquid chlorine.

I suggest you start by staying on the LC side of the FC chart. It will give you plenty of wiggle room as you learn the new system.
 
Added gallon of liquid chlorine day before yesterday, and last night a quart of muriatic acid, then two pounds (half recommended by PoolMath) of Chlorine stabilizer and left low speed pump on. Will work the stabilizer out if the socks today 😀 Retest tomorrow. With pumps running this long is it safe to get in pool? Will the slow leaching affect of the stabilizer be dangerous if we stay away from that area?
 
stephenson said:
With pumps running this long is it safe to get in pool? Will the slow leaching affect of the stabilizer be dangerous if we stay away from that area
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I swam my sock around to help it disperse. And with a 35k gallon pool, my 'sock' was the sleeve of a XXL long sleeve tshirt. I wouldn't want to open my eyes underwater near the regular sock, or in the massive cloud I swam in, but other than that, it's safe.
 
After a couple days of pump running, new numbers:

Using the Comparator Block
TC >5
pH 7.7

Individual Tests
FC/Chlorine Drop 6.5
CC 1.0
CH 225 (LOW)
TA 70 (lower range - went down)
CYA 42-45 (round up, still, so 50?) tough test to be certain 😅

CYA
So, since I only added half of the chlorine stabilizer and got half the CYA increase needed, will add the remainder now to try to get to 70. If can do this with same FC, should be close to ratio, right?

CH
Added Hardness Increaser - last year when I had water tested locally, it was a bit low so had bought 25 lbs. Added about ten pounds last year (had to find my notes - helps to look in the darn pool locker occasionally to see what is there and what you have been doing? Good grief.). So, added another 10 pounds, today.

pH
Added a bit more muriatic acid to bring pH back down (had to edit - notes from today say 7.7, not 7.4.

Pump running on high - will set to low for tonight - will check chemistry in a few more days.

Any additional thoughts?
 
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stephenson said:
Straightforward, right?

Aargghhh ...

Cut the chlorination device out ... as I was wrestling it out, the 2" pvc cracked near the valve going into the ground ... grrr ... options included replacing the valve and replumbing, or cutting the pvc out of the valve - so, I did that.

Two hours later chipping bits out - THINK it is good enough - got all the bits in - extra glue on the valve connection - with the flow switch before the cell, ran cabling, etc ... not hooked up, yet.

Will let sit overnight - status tomorrow.
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Jones Stephens Corp Socket Saver 2" Carded https://a.co/d/hJWupw7
 
stephenson said:
FC/Chlorine Drop 6.5
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I strongly advise everyone learning the new system to continue following the LC side of the chart until they have a good grasp of it. It will give you some wiggle room as you learn.

Just like LC, most SWG have a daily fluctuation, but it's less. You need to figure out your fluctuation and operate so that you remain above minimum when it dips. It takes a minute to see how it responds and get used to it.
stephenson said:
will add the remainder now to try to get to 70. If can do this with same FC, should be close to ratio, right?
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Use the FC target for 70 once the CYA is soaking. You 'count it' even of its still in the sock. Nice job creeping up on the target !!!
stephenson said:
Added Hardness Increaser -
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Great !!
stephenson said:
Added a bit more muriatic acid to bring pH back down (had to edit - notes from today say 7.7, not 7.4.
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All 7s are equally OK. SWGs tend to like 7.8. Adjust down when the PH hits 8, and only to 7.6 or 7.8. It will likely remain pretty stable there.

The TA is fine. Manage the PH when it hots an 8 and the TA will find where it wants to be all by itself.
 
stephenson said:
Like so many others, I am considering doing this - mainly because of the shock of the cost of chlorine tabs - had not bought any in a couple of years, so ... WOW!

My irregular shaped gunite pool is about 13'x28', 3.5' shallow end and 5.8' deep end. These are conservative estimates/measurements. So, figure 13,000 gallons. Built in 2017. North Florida location.

Some say to size for 2x the volume ... so, 30,000 gallon size? But, manufactures rate by actual volume, so do they account for some engineering conservatism?

All my equipment is Hayward (see photos):
- ProLogic controller with hard wired remote
- Filter
- 2 speed pump
- UV Ozone Generator
- Chlorinator device
- 400K gas heater
- valve to allow return to both a "bubbler" in a shallow shelf area, and to several returns around the pool

Have read a bit, watched a few videos on installations, etc ... pretty straightforward. Given the layout, it would seem reasonable to plumb the SWG device/water flow sensor horizontally - starting with the heater discharge by repositioning the backflow valve further toward the house, then the SWG device, then the flow sensor, then plumb straight through the existing manual controller valve (removing the chlorination feeder)? If needed, I could extend the outflow from the heater toward the house a couple more inches, but it looks pretty darn close to what is recommended, most of the needed length determined by the flow sensor requirement.

The Hayward "AquaRite" device seems fine, but there are three cells available - 15K gallon, 40K gallon and 40,000 gallon with Extended Life TurboCell. Downside is that the Hayward solution is 2x the cost of some others - my reading indicates there are life span problems with all of them, so is there an advantage to Hayward vs Circupool, vs Jandy vs Pentair vs etc. There must be quality and reliability differences - in addition to the cost differences?
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VERY interesting questions, both pool size & cell.
I’ve already posted the question on the cell & in regards the pool size, I thought I was settled on the volume per my calculations (peanut shape), but now you raised a question in my mind!
Thank you!
 

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