We recently did our pool deck and resurfacing our pool. 3 weeks after completing the project we sealed our travertine. A lot of junk got into it. Our pool is 30x15. It is now running on salt. I’ve attached pictures of the water color prior to sealing our travertine. It now has a green tint. The pool has no algae. Everything is testing out perfect. What could it be?
Before and after
- Thread starter Bryanbrv25
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
When you say a lot of junk got in it, can you give us some examples? Stone particles perhaps? Any chemicals? Just to be sure about algae, have you done an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?
Sealer remover. I’ve ran the pump for several days. Cleaning it constantly. In addition I’ve bought 2 new filters.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,574
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I took the water to pinch a penny. They said my water is perfect. Stabilizer is a little low. I trust the guys there. I’ve never had an issue. The floor doesn’t look stained. I’m not sure if I should drain some of the water.
I have one of those kits you dip the stick in the water. Everything looks good with that. I’ve also taken the water to pinch a penny. They say it looks fine.
Unfortunately, test strips are entirely useless and there is an above 98% chance the person working at the pool store has literally no idea what they're talking about. Worse, there's a virtually 100% guarantee they do not follow the methods used on this site.
To begin course correcting here, you will need a proper test kit. This will consist of either a Taylor K-2006C (or alternatively a K-2005C AND the Taylor K1515A FAS-DPD chlorine test if you cannot find a K-2006C) or a TF-100/TF Pro from TFTestKits.net.
To begin course correcting here, you will need a proper test kit. This will consist of either a Taylor K-2006C (or alternatively a K-2005C AND the Taylor K1515A FAS-DPD chlorine test if you cannot find a K-2006C) or a TF-100/TF Pro from TFTestKits.net.
I agree with the strips not being accurate. I do however trust the guys at the pool store. I’m not sure what it can be.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,574
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Best of luck then! Unfortunately we can't trust any pool store testing as it's been too many times that we see it's just not accurate at all. I hope you get it resolved. 
The consistent advice you will get here is you need a proper test kit so you can do your own testing. Once you've tested your water yourself and report the results here, folks can offer advice. Until then, it's just guessing.
BTW, the folks here are VERY helpful and will take a great deal of their own time to help you resolve your issues. But, they need good data!
Last edited:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You may have good intentions and trust their integrity, but that doesn't mean they truly understand water chemistry. Remember that pool store workers often just do what their computer printout says, or what their organization typically recommends. We see it all the time. You will eventually find yourself at a fork in the road - either going to Pinch-a-Penny for all your testing, advice, and chemicals, or you will get frustrated and take charge of your own water chemistry. We at TFP don't sell test kits or chemicals. Those choices are 100% on the owner. What we do ask is that members have one of those kits so that we can give accurate advice and coaching. Anything less will likely result in failure, wasted time, and money. Green water is one of two things - algae or metals. But we can't tell you which without test results from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit.
Keep in mind, these are the people telling you that your green water is "perfect". If it was perfect, would you be here asking for help? You've been given good advice, ie. get a proper test kit and perform your own testing. But we can't make you do it -- that's up to you.
I'm sorry to say, but until you get a test kit and post some verifiable results, there's much else we can do to help you. Any suggestions we would make would purely be guesswork.
I'll chime in here, i used to go to pinch a penny. They are a good store no doubt. They used good testing techniques with the same chemicals and reagents that a quality test uses. However, the ranges and recommendations were often not accurate and resulted in alot of yo yo ph balancing and over/under chloination. This is why we recommend getting your own test kit and doing your own testing aside from the potential for inaccurate resutls. Again, pinch a penny was my go to as well, but once i started my own testing the pool maintenance and care got a whole lot easier and cheaper.
The other issue is they dont have a way to test for metals in the water. I think some Leslie's do. One of the only tests we recommend be done at the pool store is a metals test. Find a store that does have a metals test and see if you have iron or copper present. Then let us know
The other issue is they dont have a way to test for metals in the water. I think some Leslie's do. One of the only tests we recommend be done at the pool store is a metals test. Find a store that does have a metals test and see if you have iron or copper present. Then let us know
- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
I had a pool expert visit my home. He mentioned my phosphate was at 1200ppm which is extremely high. He mentioned the debris that got in the pool could have caused it. He added phosphate remover. I will run the pump over night and hope that by the morning I have a blue pool again.
Unless you're willing to take charge of your own pool, you're going to run in circles chasing down what is likely a simple problem to solve. Green water has absolutely nothing to do with phosphates and a phosphate remover will not fix it. Green water is generally only caused by two things: algae or metal.
I truly do hope you decide to let the folks here help you, because I really hate seeing people ripped off over and over and ending up with unsatisfactory results due to hack "experts" in the industry.
I truly do hope you decide to let the folks here help you, because I really hate seeing people ripped off over and over and ending up with unsatisfactory results due to hack "experts" in the industry.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,574
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Using phosphate remover in a green pool is pointless. Dead algae releases phosphates. So if you get rid of the phosphates, some will start to die, and your phosphates will just increase again.
I had the exact same thing happen to me! The plastic they used to cover the pool got ripped up by the wind and a lot of debris got knocked into my pool, and since they didn't bother to re-cover it, a bunch of paint and sealant got sprayed in their too.
The pool store was useless. Every time I went in (even if it was the next day) I got wildly different results and nothing they sold me was fixing the problem. As much as it sucks, shell out the $120 on a Taylor test kit. I waited a bit too long and now my pool pebble has some staining, but after 2 weeks of adding acid and chlorine, I've finally achieved a fragile stability and my water is clear and there's no particulates.
I'd also recommend backwashing and then tearing down and cleaning your filter completely. All that crud is hanging out in there and the chemicals are small enough particles that they are likely just coming right back into your pool.