Short lived...further Hayward AquaRite Assistance

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otter86753

0
LifeTime Supporter
Sep 26, 2013
717
Charleston, SC
Pool Size
5900
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-3)
I just completed an Ascorbic Acid to get rid of minor staining from our well now containing iron.

Concurrent with the treatment, the SWG started reading check salt/inspect cell. The indication was the end of life for the cell so I purchased a Hayward replacement cell. Installed it on Saturday, but did not turn it on until Tuesday. When it was installed, it read salinity perfectly. This morning, the check salt/inspect cell lights were once again flashing. I checked the salinity level with my Taylor K-1766 and the level is 3800 (recommended level by Hayward is 3400 so this is what is recommended to keep 400 above). The cell is brand new, so no reason to need to inspect. When I check on the unit itself, it resets at -3000 but when it cycles on, it then reads 2300.

I fear the board is bad. Diagnostic Readings:

2300
77
31.4
0.00
99P
-0
AL -0
r 1.59
T - 3

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

I can do and post a full set of numbers, but haven't done that as I'm still balancing the FC, currently 5 and PH, currently 7.2.
 
What size cell did you buy?

Post a pic of the cell and serial number.
 
Report the diagnostics when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
@JamesW
 
I had turned my entire system off waiting to hear back as I had to remove the cell to get clear pictures.

When I turned it back on, the salt reading is now 3200 (after typing this, checked to ensure it was still generating and now the salt reading is 3700) and it is generating.

Other readings are as follows from your 1, 2, 3 request:

1. 3200
76
31.6
0.00
99P
-0
AL -0
r 1.59
T3

2. 3200
76
27.6
3.25
99P
-3900
AL -0
r 1.59
T3

3. 3200
76
27.3
3.56
98P
-4300
AL -0
r 1.59
T3
 
otter86753 said:
I checked the salinity level with my Taylor K-1766 and the level is 3800 (recommended level by Hayward is 3400 so this is what is recommended to keep 400 above).
Click to expand...

The cell looks like it is working now.

Who recommended you keep salt 400 above Haywards recommendation?
 
Well that was short lived. After slaying the email dragon, I went to check on the SWG and alas the salinity reading is 2600 and the check salt/inspect cell lights are blinking.

Here are the diagnostic readings:

2600
76
27.0
3.51 then went to 3.45 then kept cycling down to 3.42 then back to 3.45 then finally settled at 3.41
99P
-4300
AL-0
r 1.59
T3
 

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The instant salinity is good, so the cell is probably running while the pump is off causing the average salinity to drop when a 0 reading is averaged in.

Does the cell power off when the pump is off?

The flow switch is likely stuck closed.

This can potentially explode if the gasses build up by running with no flow.
 
You have an Intelliflo, how does the cell power off when the pump is off?

Your flow switch is vertical going down which is dangerous because the switch is more likely to fail in a closed position.
 
I have an intermatic timer that controls the power to both.

I do have the cell in a vertical installation because of space issues. I removed the flow switch and then reinstalled and the instant salinity read went to 3100 and is generating again.

Are you saying I should try to install horizontally? I have a pump house that houses the filter, pump, cell, and a well pump. It would probably require replumbing everything in there, but if it is dangerous, I will do so. The installation manual shows the cell installed vertically.
 
otter86753 said:
Are you saying I should try to install horizontally? I have a pump house that houses the filter, pump, cell, and a well pump. It would probably require replumbing everything in there, but if it is dangerous, I will do so. The installation manual shows the cell installed vertically.
Click to expand...

The water flow through the flow switch needs to go up, not down.

The flow switch needs to be repositioned.

Vertical mounting is fine as long as the flow switch is properly positioned with water flow going up.
 
The cell can be mounted vertically, but the flow switch should be mounted horizontally or vertically with the flow going up.

If the flow switch is mounted vertically with the flow going down, the switch flap can fall closed and trigger the cell to run with no flow.

The switch works with the flow switch mounted vertically with the flow going down and the manual does not recommend against it, so you can decide if it is something worth changing.
 
On page 11 of this manual, I have the installation exactly as #3. I want to be safe, so please let me know if something should be changed. I've had this set up for 9 years and this is the first issue I've ever had like this.
 
Last edited:
So I replaced the cell in May of this year.

Tuesday of this week, I replaced the main board and the unit worked fine.

Test results yesterday at 16.00:


FC: 6
CC: 0
PH: 7.7
TA: 70
CH: 270
CYA: 70
Salt: 3400 (Taylor tested)
Borates: 32

Yesterday, the salinity reading started falling and then fell below 2600 and now is at 0. The check salt light is solid and the inspect cell light is solid. I checked the cell and it is completely clean. I reset the average salinity and still 0 (both polarities). I've also recalibrated, but the number remains at 0 and does not count down (both polarities). I also had the cell tested at Leslie's and they confirmed the cell is clean and working.

From above here are the diagnostics when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
0
77
31.9
0.00
31P
-0
AL - 0
r. 1.59
t - 3

  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
0
77
32.2
0.00
31P
-0
AL - 0
r 1.59
t - 3

  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
0
77
31.9
0.00
31P
-0
AL - 0
r 1.59
t - 3

If I am diagnosing correctly, there is no current to the cell. I have shut the breaker to the unit and reinstalled all the connections.
 
Last edited:
When all else fails, check the simplest item.

The cable from the salt cell to the mother board had somehow become unseated and once I reseated it, voila...the cell is producing and reading salinity correctly.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: NWMNMom and JamesW

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