Time to get balanced.

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pb4uswim

pb4uswim

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2020
501
Michigan
Latest test results.

FC 8.5
CC .5
PH 7.0
TA 50
CYA 40
Salt 3200

Things are looking good and weather is going to be nice next week. Time to get the balance right.

My question is, where to start. I'm thinking that raising the pH first. My TA is right at target, so I'm thinking baking soda would be okay instead of aeration. However, I'm certainly open to opinions. I've never had my pH need to be increased so I'm not totally comfortable on the best place to start here. Then I was thinking another round of increasing the CYA. Pool Math says I'll need another three pounds to get up to 70 but I was thinking 60. Given algae issues in the past, I'm reluctant to go high on the CYA, but again, I'm here for advice.

Something I've not adjusted before because I have a fiberglass pool is my CH. It's at 125. I mention that because I've been looking at my CSI and to get that into a good range, it seems like I'd need to increase my CH. Would appreciate opinions on managing to CSI.

Currently, my water is clear and I passed on OCLT test last night. I'm ready to start this season when the temps get warm this week. I'll be turning on the heater Tuesday!!!
 
pb4uswim said:
Latest test results.

FC 8.5
CC .5
PH 7.0
TA 50
CYA 40
Salt 3200

Things are looking good and weather is going to be nice next week. Time to get the balance right.

My question is, where to start. I'm thinking that raising the pH first. My TA is right at target, so I'm thinking baking soda would be okay instead of aeration. However, I'm certainly open to opinions. I've never had my pH need to be increased so I'm not totally comfortable on the best place to start here. Then I was thinking another round of increasing the CYA. Pool Math says I'll need another three pounds to get up to 70 but I was thinking 60. Given algae issues in the past, I'm reluctant to go high on the CYA, but again, I'm here for advice.

Something I've not adjusted before because I have a fiberglass pool is my CH. It's at 125. I mention that because I've been looking at my CSI and to get that into a good range, it seems like I'd need to increase my CH. Would appreciate opinions on managing to CSI.

Currently, my water is clear and I passed on OCLT test last night. I'm ready to start this season when the temps get warm this week. I'll be turning on the heater Tuesday!!!
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Any pH starting with a 7 is fine so there’s no need to mess with it. It’ll rise slowly on its own.

You don’t need more CYA unless the sun is burning lots of it off quickly. If you do raise it, go slowly in increments up to 70 to make sure you don’t overshoot.
 
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Bperry said:
You don’t need more CYA unless the sun is burning lots of it off quickly.
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+1. Especially for a while in Michagan. You should have plenty of time to be confident you have good water before it gets hot by you.

You'll know when the SWG isn't keeping up, and pay your usual close attention to the FC just in case the UV increase sneaks up on you.
pb4uswim said:
Something I've not adjusted before because I have a fiberglass pool is my CH. It's at 125. I mention that because I've been looking at my CSI and to get that into a good range, it seems like I'd need to increase my CH. Would appreciate opinions on managing to CSI.
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The cold temps are probably helping to mess up the CSI. I am in the 'it doesn't matter for fiberglass' camp, but i also dont have to live with one with a dull finish if i'm wrong. :ROFLMAO: It's cheap enough insurance to raise the CH.
 
I have a vinyl pool (and soft, great municipal water to refill), but I keep my CH around 200 because of the heater. I'm told it's good to keep the CH up to 200 or so to help with the heating coils. See here:

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Your pH is fine. TA is good too. No need to mess with that. The guys above me give better advice than I could for a SWG sinc eI don't have one. >.>
 
IceShadow said:
I have a vinyl pool (and soft, great municipal water to refill), but I keep my CH around 200 because of the heater. I'm told it's good to keep the CH up to 200 or so to help with the heating coils. See here:

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Your pH is fine. TA is good too. No need to mess with that. The guys above me give better advice than I could for a SWG sinc eI don't have one. >.>
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Agree. My heater, SWG and my pool manual have 200 as a minimum. They also all show TA minimum of 80. Not too sure about that, but I’ll bring the pH up a bit with some baking soda and let TA come up too while I give that number more thought.
 
pb4uswim said:
Agree. My heater, SWG and my pool manual have 200 as a minimum. They also all show TA minimum of 80. Not too sure about that, but I’ll bring the pH up a bit with some baking soda and let TA come up too while I give that number more thought.
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Higher TA minimums are for puck users, as pucks are acidic.
 
IceShadow said:
Higher TA minimums are for puck users, as pucks are acidic.
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I trust TFP a lot, but the following is from the pool manufacturer - Latham.

“If your swimming pool has alkaline levels below 80 ppm, it’s at risk of corrosion and damage — and worse, it’s unsafe for swimming.”

Given that I’ve been swimming in the pool for a couple years without issue, and a TA never above 60, it’s hard to believe it’s unsafe. I’ll certainly be doing some further research before I take any action.
 
pb4uswim said:
I trust TFP a lot, but the following is from the pool manufacturer - Latham.

“If your swimming pool has alkaline levels below 80 ppm, it’s at risk of corrosion and damage — and worse, it’s unsafe for swimming.”

Given that I’ve been swimming in the pool for a couple years without issue, and a TA never above 60, it’s hard to believe it’s unsafe. I’ll certainly be doing some further research before I take any action.
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It’s likely because using pucks with such a low TA will be adding acid continuously and so could crash the pH if it’s not monitored closely, like what happens in a typical monthly pool service. If you aren’t using pucks, the acid they contain isn’t trying to lower the pH continuously and so the risk is much lower.
 
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Newdude said:
Your fiberglass pool corrodes ? Is it 'unsafe' because folks will laugh themselves to death ?
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Point taken, but the equipment (SWG, heater . . .) manuals use the same recommendations. Not that that makes it correct, just that others in that industry are consistent on that recommendation. Again, I’m not changing anything but it’s interesting.
 

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pb4uswim said:
just that others in that industry are consistent on that recommendation
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Well, pffffffffft !!!!!! In THAT case, drop your FC to 1 and let the CYA climb as high as 200. Might as well get one of those mineral systems too that inhibit algae and you won't need chlorone at all. Seeing how the industry has a clue about anything chemistry related. (y)
 
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When I reviewed the manual or my new heater, I noticed that Raypak also thinks my pool needs to be NO MORE than 3 PPM FC max. Your Hayward manual does too. I can tell you that I don't care one iota what Raypak thinks because they build heaters, they are not water chemistry experts, and neither is pretty much any vendor or "professional" you come across in this industry. The "industry" also suggests that my pool needs weekly shock, algaecides, enzymes, flocculants, $60 weekly phosphate removers, and other snake oil. The "industry" also says algae blooms are just a regular part of owning a pool, so I should probably pop down to Leslie's tomorrow so I can hand over a water sample and a blank check.

Not trying to be argumentative, but the advice and protocols provided here are based upon actual documented scientific evidence; most "industry" advice is based on arbitrary guidelines and old data, lots of which dates back to the 70s. When, through testing, people here figure out that certain things don't work, they accept it, change it, and move on. The pool industry is doing the same old stuff they've been doing for eons.
 
TFP has a fifteen year proven track record of knowing and understanding pool water chemistry. It is the primary thing we do.

We will not always agree with industry publications because they are frequently just parroted advice that is copied from another source without questioning "Why?"

TFP does it's homework.
 
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duraleigh said:
TFP has a fifteen year proven track record of knowing and understanding pool water chemistry. It is the primary thing we do.

We will not always agree with industry publications because they are frequently just parroted advice that is copied from another source without questioning "Why?"

TFP does it's homework.
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I’m a TFP fan so please understand that I’m just trying to educate myself. I’m trying to understand why they would say that swimming in water with TA below 80 is unsafe. Is there an interaction with the other chemicals at that level that we balance out in other ways? Kind of like the CYA/Chlorine balance that seems way out of line until you come here. Until I learned about CYA, I would have though getting in my pool with FC above 5 was “unsafe”.
 
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pb4uswim said:
I’m trying to understand why they would say that swimming in water with TA below 80 is unsafe.
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So are we. :ROFLMAO: But there are many sources of wonder when reading industry or government guidelines propped up way behind their shelf life thanks to the industry who uses them as a cash cow.

Ask away anytime. We may be just as confused as you. (y)
 
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