Heater plumbing

mdbrown

Gold Supporter
Aug 2, 2021
25
Sacramento, CA
Pool Size
32000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Getting ready to set equipment for pool with spa with a shared Pentair ETI 400 High Efficiency Heater (BTW, this thing is massive compared to the Mastertemp, at least twice as large). The equipment guy indicated that it would be plumbed such that water is flowing through the heater anytime the pump is running. Everything will be controlled by Intellicenter.
Is it appropriate to run through the heater at all times? Seems inefficient...
Thank you for your help!
 
The ETI 400 does not have the automatic IntelliValve bypass feature that the "Connected" RS-485 enabled MasterTemp heater now has. Even with the bypass Pentair recommends keeping some water flow through the heater when bypassed.

Since heaters use a Water Pressure switch and not a flow switch you don't want the heater accidentally being turned on while bypassed as there may be pressure in the heater allowing the heater to turn on with no water flow. That can damage the heater.

You can install a manual Heater Bypass - Further Reading for maintenance purposes.
 
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Plumbing in a bypass for heaters is a very new thing in the pool industry. I believe it was Jandy that started it with their versa-flow bypass for their heaters. Does a heater add head to the system? Some, but all new heaters for the last 25 years at least have design flow rates that accept the full flow of properly-sized modern pumps, even single speed models. When you use a VSP, as you have, slowing the water down means that the restriction through a heater has far less effect.

There are a few in our area plumbed like that, I'm local to you. One of my main concerns with a bypass is that, when it is shut, not all the water may drain out of the heater. A bypass has to be plumbed correctly or water will reverse through the heater outlet and fill the heater. If it sits long enough it will evaporate and leave a bunch of "stuff" that is in the pool water inside the heat exchanger. The TDS of your water won't be dissolved any more and that stuff can stick to the copper, titanium, cupro-nickle, whatever. Second, we do get freezing temperatures here. Your pumps have built-in freeze protection that will get the water moving to help prevent freeze damage. If it is not moving through a heater that has a closed manual bypass, and the heater has water in it, you really don't want to know what a frozen heater costs to repair, especially that ETI.
 
Plumbing in a bypass for heaters is a very new thing in the pool industry. I believe it was Jandy that started it with their versa-flow bypass for their heaters. Does a heater add head to the system? Some, but all new heaters for the last 25 years at least have design flow rates that accept the full flow of properly-sized modern pumps, even single speed models. When you use a VSP, as you have, slowing the water down means that the restriction through a heater has far less effect.

There are a few in our area plumbed like that, I'm local to you. One of my main concerns with a bypass is that, when it is shut, not all the water may drain out of the heater. A bypass has to be plumbed correctly or water will reverse through the heater outlet and fill the heater. If it sits long enough it will evaporate and leave a bunch of "stuff" that is in the pool water inside the heat exchanger. The TDS of your water won't be dissolved any more and that stuff can stick to the copper, titanium, cupro-nickle, whatever. Second, we do get freezing temperatures here. Your pumps have built-in freeze protection that will get the water moving to help prevent freeze damage. If it is not moving through a heater that has a closed manual bypass, and the heater has water in it, you really don't want to know what a frozen heater costs to repair, especially that ETI.
Thanks for the info. The installer working for my PB is adamant that "the only problems I've had with ETI heaters is when there's a bypass". I can't generate a good argument to the contrary, so letting him plumb without a bypass.
 
And yet people who actually work on heaters recommend against them. Sorry. As I tell many customers, "Here are my best recommendations. Your pool, your equipment, your money, your choice."

Of all the heater bypass plumbing I have seen, and there have been a few, only one was ever kept in the bypass position. He hated it because he had automation and had to walk to the equipment to manually turn the flow to the heater to use his spa. Couldn't add an actuator as all spots in the automation were taken up. Said the previous owner told him it had to be done and he just believed him. It wasn't even plumbed correctly anyway, would allow backflow through the heater outlet. We eventually did a needed replumb and got rid of the valve. The rest that I have seen were never in the bypass position ever. As to using it if a repair is needed, seldom does a heater repair ever involve the water system. If it does it seldom takes more than a couple of days to get parts and the pool can usually continue to filter just fine. If it will take longer or there is a large leak, a quick replumb to eliminate the heater for a bit (maybe 30 minute job) is all that I have ever had to take.

Here are my best recommendations. Your pool, your equipment, your money, your choice.
 
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